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More Power!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8BaLL, Jun 19, 2002.

  1. 8BaLL

    8BaLL Registered Member

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    What do you guys do to increase power and performance of your engines? I have an 85 k5 and I just kinda want a little more performance and power. I am getting dual exhaust, kn filter, platinum plugs and a few other things but what else can I do without getting into major engine tweaking?
     
  2. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    Depends on what you consider major. After headers, dual exhaust, and some ignition upgrades the next step would be to go for a performance intake and maybe a cam.
     
  3. The85k5

    The85k5 1/2 ton status

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    hmm well do u plan on passing smog? if so then well....just do gears haha...i put on an performer manifold.....didnt notice much of a change at all...u could always to a cam intake and carb setup and still pass smog, believe me do what u want right now because later on down the road your gonna wish u did it!
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Headers. They are a big bang for the buck. Since you are already doing your exaust, throw them on.
     
  5. 8BaLL

    8BaLL Registered Member

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    I have gone to two different exhaust shops and both of the guys said that headers wouldnt make a very big difference at all. One guy said it would mainly help the sound and not much performance while the other guy said that with a car that new (85) that the headers wouldnt help much. Are these guys stupid? I wouldnt mind having headers but after they told me that I was kinda thinking of not getting them but you guys are pretty much the blazer experts so let me know. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  6. 84PolarBear

    84PolarBear Registered Member

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    I have flow masters and headman headers. They sound good and have power, but after a great tune up it really improve my blazer's power. I just changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
     
  7. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    I am not a header fan.
    my truck gained SOP with rams horns.
    compression = power
    shave the heads
     
  8. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    It depends on the manifold and the header as to what kind of gain you might see. The ram's horn manifolds are a lot better than the log style that you probably have. Make sure that you work on increasing torque and not just increasing power because high rpm power isn't so much of a help with a 4x4, so stay with tri-Y's or small tubes.
     
  9. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Headers are the cheapest upgrade that will give a significant increase. Don't listen to muffler shops, those guys are idiots! One refused to build my dual exhaust with a crossover because he said it wouldn't do anything and was a waste of time!

    If you don't have headers, your engine is choking BIG TIME! If you're going with duals, get headers.
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Absolutely correct. So, what has this lesson taught us? Do your own work, (because there are more idiot "mechanics" than good ones) and get your ideas from CK5. Class dismissed.
     
  11. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Muffler shops just don't like headers from what I can see, most of them are just doing factory exhaust systems. I've always been a big fan of Hooker headers. Just headers alone won't make that big of a difference, but when combined with a good dual plain intake manifold, they'll open up the air ways and let your motor breath !!!!!!! I agree with the crossover tube to equlize pressure, I'd also get a good off road cam. I like Comp Cams "Extream 4x4" camshafts. What size motor do you have ???? Remember, the larger the motor, the more power you'll see. You could leave your stock motor alone, and build a beast as you can aford it. Then drop that in and have all the power you'll need. /forums/images/icons/tongue.gif
     
  12. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    Big power is made at the top end. By that I mean cam, heads, intake, and aspiration (carb or EFI). Try Edelborck's Total Power Packages. They really simplify the the whole thing.
     
  13. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    Also ... on the header question. Exhaust shops probably don't like headers because they are too labor intensive to install, therefor little money to be made. But I think they are still part right. Headers them selves may not help very much, because they are only part of the equation. Combine them with a complete dual exhaust kit, including crossover pipe (a must), and then you'll have something. Stick in cam, message the heads, slap on an aluminum intake, and you'll be screamin'!!!
     
  14. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    I would argue and say a cam is the cheapest upgrade for the most power.
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Throw a big cam in an engine without messing with anything else, then compare that to what headers give you. it won't be impressive unless the stock lobes were ground flat to start with.

    I went from a stock emissions cam to a cam with almost .500" lift at .050 without changing from the stock exhaust, and that was the dumbest thing I have done to date. This, a 3800lb 415CID car with skinny tires, that couldn't burn them off the line. Friend with almost the same combo, (car, CID, everything) except dual exhaust with headers, will destroy my car off the line. (and since hes geared numerically lower, would just keep going and I'd never catch him)

    If you are already intending to get dual exhaust (as he is apparently) a pair of $200 or so headers added into the exhaust bill is less than a cam and lifters, with all associated gaskets, oil, etc you've got to buy (and the timing chain, mightaswell, you're in there)once you open the motor up.

    You are absolutely correct on the package aspect, an engine needs to be built as an assembly that needs to work with all its components. Over camming and over carbing an engine are probably the two most common mistakes in engine building, and the two most disappointing.
     
  16. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    I would never recomend running a big cam in a 4x4. Those are for high RPM drag cars.
    I didn't get into that aspect of it b/c that's a whole nother lesson. My comparisson was: let's say an Edlelbrock Performer cam for $100 vs. a set of Headman Headers for around $100. My guess is that with one of these alone the cam will yeild the most power. The Headers will still need a good exhaust. Granted a cam would benefit from a free-flow exhaust too, but you can still get descent power gains without it.
     
  17. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    That part about over carbing...
    I really screwed that one up myself. I tried to sneak by with a 750 on a brand new Goodwrnech 350 by jetting it down. (More carb more power, right?) Boy was that dumb. Talk about running rich!!! I couldn't start the thing up near anything without blowing carbon all over it!
     
  18. mplogic

    mplogic 1/2 ton status

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    Your basic performance package (which my mechanic friend is always reminding me) is headers, cam, carb, manifold. Ususally low end torque is more desirable in trucks than high end power (speed vs. the ability to drive over stuff) so lots of guys run RV cams (avoid high lift cams) and you probably don't want a totally free flowing exhaust. Some backpresure is desirable for low end torque. Any one thing probably won't make a big difference. When it all comes together though is when you get a big output gain because everything aids the rest of the system and you get an engine that breathes so much better. Do all that before getting into anything as exotic and expensive as new/custom heads (although they will definately give you more power).
     
  19. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    The Edelbrock cam is garbage compared to other grinds....

    I have the Comp Xtreme 4x4 250 grind and I'm very happy with the results. I also have a Performer intake, 500 CFM carb, and Dynomax headers and duals.

    Whoever said avoid high lift cams is absolutely wrong. Lift has little or nothing to do with whether the cam is good for your application, in fact, more lift=more flow and is exactly why the Comp Cams grind I have is very effective compared to others. Duration is generally what you want to keep low. My cam is 204/216 @ .050", .432/.453 lift. I suggest you look at some of the cheaper cams--their cams in my duration range are more like .410-.430 lift. The increased lift gives more vacuum and more torque and is basically the whole idea behind the line of Xtreme 4x4 cams.

    There are many factors that go into choosing a camshaft but the basic idea is that everything in the engine combo must work together or it'll work against another component.

    As for the muffler shop idiots, and doing it yourself...I did. On both trucks. I refuse to give those morons my $300. I'll continue to buy the dual kits, crossover pipe, and mufflers of my choice and build my own. If I had to smog it, I'd buy high performance cats for it too.
     
  20. mplogic

    mplogic 1/2 ton status

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    I stand corrected. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif I've just think it's sad when someone basically builds a screaming race motor and then gets it out on the trail and realizes it did better before the build up. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif Gotta be careful and try to keep the power in the low RPM range. I guess the point is, find a qualified mechanic who builds truck engines, or do all the research yourself and put together a good package.
     

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