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More time than money, performance guru's...kinda long

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by trouble1, Feb 13, 2003.

  1. trouble1

    trouble1 1/2 ton status

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    More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    Dont ask me why, but I'm convinced I can get a formidable Blazer out of what I got. So, here it go's...
    Ive got a 86 with a 305, 700r-4, np208, 10 bolts w/ 3.73. the motor has minor upgrades, comp cam, edel intake, edel POS carb. 3" body lift.
    Heres what I'm replacing...
    carb to MPFI, headers, 3.73 to 4.56, exaust, Hekethorn shocks, 2" add-a-leafs front and rear, Prothane bushing kit (suspen & chassis).
    Heres what I use the truck for...
    Alot of highway miles, alot of interstate towing, mild to moderate off-roading. Basically want a good DD with decent off-road capabilities.
    heres my question...while doing this, what else should I do thats not real expensive, that can toughin it up. I want to keep the half ton set-up, dont really know why, lets jus say I've always like swiming against the current. Thanks for any and all ideas that come along. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    Beings you are staying with the 10 bolts you might as well put a lockrite locker in it. They only cost 250 or less.
    They replace the spyder gears (weak point in 10 bolts) and make it a little stronger. Get a lot better traction too /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    Keep the tire size 35" or under and things usually hold up just fine.
    I have been running lockrites, 10 bolts, 3.73, and 33" tires for 3 years now and they are working great.
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    Well, since you aren't in a huge hurry, one thing you could consider is going with a manual tranny.

    Spend some time comparing gearing/tire sizes with the gear ratios of the 465 and 700 for instance, see what you could live with. 3.73's with 35's and the 2nd gear of the 465 isn't going to be *too* bad (especially when injected and no prob when cruising) and 3.73/6.55:1/35" compared to 4.56/3.07(?):1/35" is kind of a joke.
    http://yeagerd.home.mindspring.com/gearcalc.html
    (if you ask me, the above 465 combo will be better on the freeway at 60 than the 4.56/700 will be, and is obviously a better crawl ratio)

    With the ultra low 1st of the 465, you have a better crawl ratio than the 700 (of course, not trying to compare the torque converter to a clutch) and no one will argue that the 465 is weak. A re-gear yourself will probably cost $350 easy ($125/per axle for gears, at least $50 for the differential "rebuild" kit you'll want for both), if you can keep the same gears, get the same mileage, have a better tranny and crawl ratio, for less money, what have you lost?

    I know I'm biased, but again, if you are in no real hurry, you can either piece together a cheap 465 setup, or just wait until a cheap package deal comes along. (saw one for $25 at the swap meet last week for instance)

    I understand manual trannies aren't for everyone, but I personally think they are fun to drive, and I really like not even having to consider if the tranny is going to fail.

    Again, you asked for ideas/opinions. All at once it will cost a few hundred dollars, but over time, it will be real reasonable, and now is the time to do it, not later as these setups are scrapped.
     
  4. trouble1

    trouble1 1/2 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    thanx for the input so far....lockers were already in the plans, I forgot to mention that... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  5. sdavid

    sdavid 1/2 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    You could install some stronger U-joints and axle shafts. I don't know how pricey they get though. ORD steering box brace, so you don't crack the frame when you install taller tires. Save money on add a leafs and trim your fenders and spend that money on something else. Or get the zero rate blocks, add a leafs make for a rougher ride.
     
  6. trouble1

    trouble1 1/2 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    I am kinda hoping for a rougher ride...especially in the rear. When the trailer is hooked up, I'm really soft /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  7. sdavid

    sdavid 1/2 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    The short add a leafs should do the trick then. They up the spring rate and lift the butt. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. K5thatShmobs

    K5thatShmobs 1/2 ton status

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    Re: More time than money, performance guru\'s...kinda long

    You might want to take the fact that youre going to be on the freeway a lot into consideration when thinking about going with a 4.56 ratio. You have OD which will help, but that ratio is on the steep side with stock tires. My opinion on upgrading 10 bolts with stronger axle shafts, full floater kits, hubs, etc is that it costs way more than what youre getting out of it. Anything up to a 36" tire I will always opt for picking up a 14 bolt for the rear and converting your front to an eight lug. Just that right there is cheaper than getting a pair of cro-molly shafts for your front axle. As long as youre not beligerant, your stock shafts should hold up fine to reasonably sized tire.(Assuming those tires arent boggers or something and over 35 or 36).

    Oh yes, and as far as lock rights... I love them. There isnt too many of us that will say otherwise, and I think that means a lot. I have one up front--great little unit. They are starting to gain some genuine respect.
     

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