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**More Wearing of the 88-present IFS trucks**

Discussion in '1992-Present Chevy & GMC models' started by 89K1500Chevy, Jan 1, 2003.

  1. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    The steering is replaced and the cv joint replaced but now the front driver side tire bows in while going forward and bows out while going backwards WTF. And the when the truck is shut off and brake pressed down the front tire bows out. I bleed the front brake but still doing it. So now what could be causing this prob? the upper and lower ball joints? or the upper control arm or lower control arm or mabey both? Ok thanks for any info on this prob. /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif got stuck latetly? /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  2. mudddog91

    mudddog91 1/2 ton status

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    Hey is it lifted or stock?I had a problem with my upper control arm cam bolts coming loose.These are the ones that hold the upper control arms on and adjust the camber and caster.
     
  3. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    its a 1989 truck i forgot to add that but this is just a updated continue of the other post i did. the Tbars have been tighted up to be level and that was done almost 3 years ago and untill now its been fine like that to run 33 12.50 with no rubbing anywhere. i had unhook the upper a arms so the old cv joint could be taken out and the new cv joint could be put in. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  4. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    The bolts holding the upper A-arms in place have to be very tight or the tire will shift around like you describe. Also, if you didn't mark the adjusting cams before taking it apart, you'll need to take it in to have it aligned as there's no way to guesstimate where the cams should be adjusted to. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  5. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    yeah i forgot to mention there is a scraping noise while rolling doesnt sound too good. DAMN /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  6. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    aight got new upper ball joint but got to drill it out so the new one can go on and its eating up my drill bits so i have to go get some new ones and then finish drilling and get the alignment done hopefully thats all. o yeah still got to bleed the brakes out. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    They drill out much easier if you drill a pilot hole in the center of the rivet first. I start with maybe a 1/8 inch bit and drill in about 1/4 of an inch. Then swap to a 3/8's bit. The pilot hole helps it dig in very quickly. Once the head of the rivet comes loose, you can punch out the remainder of the rivet with a small punch or chisel. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  8. Shorts

    Shorts 1/2 ton status

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    bleeding the brakes is cake.

    oh yeah, when i changed my ball joints, i torchedthe rivets to red hot, then punched them out. drilling and punching didn't make a dent /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     
  9. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Did you check the wheel bearing?
     
  10. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Well more [censored] hit the fan and it seems that the lower ball joints are both bad and that they and the pitman arm has to be replaced before the alignment can be done and i dont feel like doing all the labor in my driveway so im going to let a shop do this as i cant do it at the shop at school b/c we are rebuilding engine's Anyway should have the truck by friday mabey thursday /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif that would be nice/forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  11. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Well the truck is going to chevrolet dealership and they are doing the lower ball joints and the pitman arm and the alignment and i might be getting a part time job there also that would be pretty cool. Should have the back truck by the end of thursday or early fri. Yippy Ki Ya /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  12. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    All right the truck is done and rides out smooth and with everything rolling tight. no more cop's harassing me to stay in one lane while driving down the road /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif Never got a ticket for it but did get asked about whats on the truck a few times. Everythings good to go for now so should be getting some new pics for site sometime soon now. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  13. Shorts

    Shorts 1/2 ton status

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    sounds like what i need to do - replace my pitman arm and get the truck aligned. my ball joints are good though. i replaced those when i did the lift /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  14. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I found that Upgrading to the Heavy Duty parts was the way to go b/c they arent to much more and they well not wear or brake as easy as the reg. ones and if the stock ones lasted 13 years on my truck with offroading at least every week and weekend then they should last 26 years prob not but who knows i do make sure to grease the front end up when it needs it dont let it wear out cuz with going offroad and getting muddy then pressure washing it off can help the grease not last as long. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  15. COOTER

    COOTER Registered Member

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    thats the trick to front end problems.free estamate and alist of all the parts to replace.do all the parts your self and pay $40 for alignment.
     
  16. 89K1500Chevy

    89K1500Chevy 1/2 ton status

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    Well i just found out today the Clunk in the rear of the truck was just the u-joints going out and not the axle /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I pulled the cover off the 10 bolt and everything is GOOD to GO! Hell Yeah Im glade that the problem is solved and its only costing 26 dollars for both. Brute Force Sealed for life U joints! Yeah instead of 400 to 500 for a 94 15 bolt SF 6 lug with a 3 73 ratio. In the future Yes but now NO. /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif www.zombieoffroading.8m.net
     
  17. ZonkRat

    ZonkRat 1/2 ton status

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    When I lifted my 88 with a Rough Coumtry 3in kit it changed the angle of the tierods enough to push up and down on the idler and pitman arms.This let the tires move about two inches in & out when in FWD.Also had wheelbearing problems,but,this caused brakes to do weird things also.Cured all this with D60 swap.36in TSLs didn't help wear probs any either. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gifer on 38s /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  18. Shorts

    Shorts 1/2 ton status

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    what you mentioned about the tie rods and idler/pitman arms are the reason 2-3" lift kits are frowned upon. itd be nice to get that small of a lift though. hmm, maybe i should just make a small universal steering bracket that would correct this problem on these lifts /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     

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