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More Wiring Tech: How to wire Proper Disconnects

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 73k5blazer, Jan 17, 2007.

  1. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    For those that don't know, I'm wiring my K5 from scratch (been doing so for a year :eek1: ), anyhow, finally almost getting done, and am down to the end here.

    Anyhow, I've got various accessories and other places that require disconnects on the wires to be able to easily perform maintenance.

    Every wonder why your KC Daylighters aren't as bright as they should be? Your ground get corroded within a year 'cause you live in the rust belt?

    Well worry no more, here's how to do disconnects in those venerable areas:

    What I'm detailing is A KC Dayligher install. For this application, each light is 150w (so at 12v, that's 12.5amps). I've run my ground wire back to a nice protected ground block. Generally speaking, the frame is a horrible place to ground things like high-amperage lights, because it corredes so easy. Anyhow,
    For these I used Metri-Pak 480 Sealed:


    To get ready go here and order Packard Metri-Pak Terminals/Bodies/seals/TPA/CPA locks for the amperage and number of cavities you need. (They have a $25 min. order, so stock up!)

    First, cut off these crap bullet connectors with a shotty attempt at a seal (here in the rustbelt, this would toast in about 2-3 years):
    [​IMG]





    Next, strip your wires to the proper length:
    [​IMG]





    Then:
    Reach into your parts bin of terminals/seals/bodies etc and pull out the proper terminals and seals
    :
    [​IMG]





    Slide on the proper sized seal (the purple ribbed thing there) for your gauge wire (the seals have some give, so don't feel you need to order every single cable size, bigger wires can squeeze into a smaller hole if nessesary, they have so many because automated assembly machines need the proper size) I have only 16ga and 12ga seal sizes.
    Place the terminal on the wire, grab your Delphi/Packard Terminal Crimper (Shown on the bumper there), and crimp the terminal and then the seal. (A nessesary tool, don't try to use a hardware store crimper, these terminals have little wings that get folded through the strands of wire to catch as many as possible. The crimper is a bit brutal in price, cheapest I've seen on ebay is like $40-50, list is $140 :eek1:, but well worth it if your doing alot of them. You could plier crimp and solder if your just doing one though.)
    [​IMG]






    Repeat for each wire on male and female sides using the apportiate terminal and seal, then line up your wires (make sure to put the right wires in the right cavity on reach side so when their mated the proper wires become connected!, I used 12v in 'A' and ground in 'B', the bodies are labeled.
    Pop those terminals into the body and engage the tang (click!).
    [​IMG]






    Install your TPA (Terminal Position Assurance) lock
    (The little piece of black plastic that clips on the back of each body. It assures the position of the wire as it enters the connector body so the seal doesn't set compressed if you bend the wire one way or the other coming out of the cavity.
    [​IMG]





    Connect your male and female ends together, and install your CPA (Connector position assurance) lock, and secure the wires.
    [​IMG]

    A little tape for abrasion and a little extra protection, and secure the wires, and your done!
    [​IMG]



    My lights here on a relay, with a Carling Tech on-off-on switch, one 'on' position is on no matter what, the other on position is slaved to the bright lights switch.
    And in case your wondering, that's a H1 fold down brush guard, it needs to fold down because my fiberglass tilt front clip. folds up.

    The best part is, you won't have to worry about it or touch it for 30 years+

    So stop using those crap connectors that come with various accessories and wire it right!
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2007
    thearborbarber likes this.
  2. RockinChevy

    RockinChevy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Good write up, man. :waytogo: I still have those crappy connectors from Auto Zone. I'll go this route when I get a chance to work on some of my wiring problems and replace those KC lights that got damaged from my recent accident.
     
  3. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    good write up, and good timing on it after our little discussion... I'm gonna go that route when I do final hookups on some of my stuff.. I'm just leaving everything a little long and hardwiring for now... But I'll have to add some Packard stuff to my "order list"..

    Is it possible to get a good crimp without their $100 crimper?
     
  4. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Not really, the crimper is essentially a die, with pointed and swooped forms made specficaly for this type of terminal. It works for all the 56 series (the 0.25" push on connector used by GM on out trucks from '73-91 in alot of places, distributor, ignition switch, fuse box (if you have one :D)), the 59 series (wide body 56 style, used on headlights, and 2 in the ignition switch), pack-con terminals (used on wipers, turn signal connector, blower motor swtich..etc), and all metri-pak sealed and unsealed terminals.

    It's quite a versitle tool. If your wiring a bunch of stuff, it's downright essential.

    If your just doing a few you could plier crimp and solder it, but a regular crimper just won't work. The wings really need to be folded through the strands of wire to achieve it's rated capacity and ensure integrity of the connection with minimal resistance.

    GM/Packard Number 12885271 (some people list as 12085271, but that's just the die ends, which are replaceable, but I've yet to find somebody to sell replacment dies, it's always the whole crimper, there's a couple other dies for very specialized terminals not used on our older stuff.)

    Watch eBay for 'em, actually I'm bidding on one right now, $40. The one I'm using is from my buddy who works for Delphi, but he needs it back at some point :D.

    [​IMG]

    The very back wings on the terminal crimp around the wire insulation, the next set of wings are the ones that get folded through the wire strands. Shown is the "PC Bow" terminal that goes in the Gauge Pod Connector Body to mate with the printed circuit. The 2 larger dies (B & D) on the crimper are for the insulation crimp, and the 3 smaller dies (A,C & E) are for the wire crimp.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2007
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    What's the story with that website?

    I'm trying to browse there, but it's trying to download files to my machine (not just opening the usual pop-ups)...??? My firewall is all nervous about it.
     
  6. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    My website? Shouldn't be any problems. I'm typing this on the machine it's running off of. :dunno:
    I use it from a variety of places and computers around the world, I've never once seen a firewall or similair program complain about it.

    So you can't load the pages, or the pictures don't show up in this thread or what?
     
  7. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    No.... the www.terminalsupplyco.com link you embedded has some kind of weird desire to download files (cookies?, spyware?) before it will show the inventory pages.... I'm used to seeing pop-ups from sites where they open a new window each time you browse to a different page of their catalog, but this one is different than that. :dunno:

    I hate spyware, so I really hate to click "OK" to get past the warnings my system gives me unless I'm SURE the content is going to be alright.
     
  8. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Ahh...they are a small company, right near my house actually. I doubt they did pop-ups in their site, I've been there and talked to the guy who did their site.. What it is, they picked a really horrible way to display their catalog, they have a PDF navigation page that controls other PDF displayed pages. Not the easiest of sites/catalog to navigate, I've been using for over a year now, on various computers, I've never seen anything of evil nature installed there. I use firefox though, never tried it on IE, mabey it's doing something else there? :dunno:.
     
  9. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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  10. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    If you pick terminals from the page I linked to there,
    then pages 43-54 "Packard Terminals & Connectors"

    The 480 sealed that I used are on page 49.
    You can get smaller ones (150,280 series) if your amperage requirments are less.
     
  11. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    ok so I am wiring up kc lights... 12a each....

    thus...

    you are saying I need to buy the terminals on pg 43-54
    then on pg49 the other part?

    sorry I am dumb on this.. can ya hook a brotha up with EXACTLY which ones :bow:

    also I saw a tool up there..is that needed?
    sorry trying to hold a 7month old an type is hard.... :haha:
     
  12. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    also what threw me off is that you linked to a page but it doesnt go to terminals.. goes to their home page...

    Thanks
    Jeff
     
  13. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    No you don't need all of them.
    What you want to do is pick the "Series" that matches the amperage range your using. I used 480 series because they go to 42 amps and cover more stuff. Buy they are bigger so you need the room. I just stocked up on these.

    For your lights, being 12amps, I'd probably pick the 280 series. Good to 30amps

    So, that puts on page 47.

    So, if these are regular lights each with a power and ground wire, what you'll need is the following:
    (2) 15300027 Female 2 Cavity Body
    (2) 15300002 Male 2 Cavity Body

    What gauge wire are you using to feed it. I'll guess 16. Look on page 47 if your using a different gauge wire for the right terminal and seals.

    (4) 12077411 Female Terminal
    (4) 12048159 Male Terminal
    (8) 12015323 14-16ga Seal (or alternitivly 12010293)

    You might want to get 1 or 2 extra terminals in male and female in case you hack one up.

    (4) 15300014 TPA Lock

    There's no CPA lock for 280 series.

    If your unsure of the gauge wire, KC usally goes with the min. possible. 12amps, that's probably 18ga on the light side. I'd use at least 16ga to feed. So you might want to get terminals and seals to fit 18ga as well, just to be safe.

    There's alot of pieces, I know it can be overwhelming, but once you get used to the system they use it's pretty easy.
     
  14. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    ya got that right...
    you gave me the listing for 2 lights right?

    so I have 4 lights on my front bumper....
    5 on rollbar, 2 backwards on rollbar (not on yet)

    so 11 lights =
    22 male wire
    22 female wire pieces
    11 male plugs
    11 female plugs
    44 wire seals
     
  15. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Ahh..yeah, I assumed 2. Yep, your numbers are right.
    And 22 TPA locks (you need those)
     
  16. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    WOW.. doing some googling... i found imperialinc.com

    74000 - METRI-PACK FEMALE TERMINAL - $9.38 for 25
    74001 - METRI-PACK MALE TERMINAL - $14 for 25
    74003 - METRI-PACK BLUE SEAL 12-10 GA - $8.60 for 25

    now the expensive parts
    74008 - FEMALE HOUSING DOUBLE - $33.15 for 5
    74009 - MALE HOUSING DOUBLE - $11 for 5


    so im looking at
    $10
    $14
    $17
    $22 (1 short)
    $67 (1 short)
    ________________
    $130 plus shipping.. :eek1:

    YOWSERS!!!!!
     
  17. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    Terminal supply co will be cheaper than that. But I wouldn't be surprised if you were $50-70. 11 lights is a lot of lights!

    Use thier 'Quick Quote" and the girl will get back to you in less than 24hrs or so with the total price. Or if you call the sales line, they can quote you over the phone.
     
  18. littlejimmythatcould

    littlejimmythatcould 1/2 ton status

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    Where was this thread a week ago? Man I just rewired all of my accessories! Oh well, I live in NM which I believe is not the rust belt. Maybe in a few months.... I did leave some excess wire on all of my wiring for future upgrades....:rolleyes:
     
  19. 73k5blazer

    73k5blazer Unplug the matrix cable from the back of your head Premium Member

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    It was right here! Rootbreaker brought it back.I orignally posted on 17Jan :laugh:
     
  20. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    ahh they gave me a quote...


    [SIZE=+0]Qty Part # Cost[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]12 15300027 $2.80 ea.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]12 15300002 $1.17 ea.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]24 12077411 $0.30 ea.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]24 12048159 $0.27 ea.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]44 12015323 $0.23 ea.[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]so that is[/SIZE] (round numbers)
    [SIZE=+0]33[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]14[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]7[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]7[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]11[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]_____[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]$72[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]hmmmmm this isnt on my plate yet.... dunno...[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0][/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0]do I need a special tool to crimp these or can I use a regular crimp?[/SIZE]
    [SIZE=+0][/SIZE]
     

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