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Motor Blown?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by firefighter184, Mar 10, 2005.

  1. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    Think I spun a bearing. Got a pretty wicked knock coming from what appears to be the rear of the block. How screwed am I? I am no mechanic, so I will have to pay somebody to fix this. I talked to one shop, and they're talking like $1500, because they said the crankshaft is probably scarred up. I just had the top end rebuilt like 2000 miles ago, so I'm thinking it might just be cheaper to get a short block. What do you guys think? Spring is almost here, I have 3/4 ton axles waiting to go under, as well as sliders. I did NOT need this crap right now!:mad:
     
  2. Fierospeeder

    Fierospeeder Banned

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    they would need to regrind the crankshaft then polish it.

    They may need to grind the "saddle" where the crankshaft rests.


    Their price is reasonable. If they are pulling the motor out, tearing it apart, and having a machine shop do all the block work.


    If a shop is installing a motor, you will be close to a grand, no matter what option you take. Unless, you find a buddy who can install a wreck truck motor in your vehicle or a junkyard motor.
     
  3. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    Might try and find a good used motor for the short term until you can afford a good rebuild.
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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  5. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    if you buy from ebay prepare to take a bunch of ****.... no seriously do your homework and check everything out like talk to a few of his buyers and him to get an idea who your dealing with before you bid. Ebay can be your friend or your enemy.


    If a shop intalls a motor you can expect well over 2 grand... ask my mom, although she has mpfi on her stang.

    I had a knock on my old motor like that and thought it was the torque converter or something else because it wouldn't move when i gave it gas but it knocked like a mother ****er. I pulled the tranny to find out i had a blown main bearing and thats how i ended up with no dirtbike and a mild 355.

    When bearings go they can melt the journals on the crank shaft so make sure the crank is 100 percent ok.

    do you know if it was a rod or main bearing?

    I would say go with a short block and stick your guts in there.
     
  6. Poohbair

    Poohbair 1/2 ton status

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    I just spun a bearing in my motor too... I figure it is going to be about 250 bucks to fix... I think that 1500 is re-dicku-more. Pull the motor yourself, remove the crank, heads, and piston/rod for whichever is bad. Getting the crank turned is about 100 bucks, re-sizing the rod is about 15, then you need a set of bearings and a gasket kit... no biggie. If you don't know how to do the engine work, then get a friend/neighbor/etc... to come help you for a case of beer... thats what Im gonna do!!!
     
  7. BIG*RED

    BIG*RED 1/2 ton status

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    on my last motor i had that lovely sound too..i also thought i spun a bearing..drove it for three more days, everyday i had less and less power..by the third day i couldn't go over 25mph and it sounded awefull..so that afternoon i pulled the motor out, fliped it upside down(it was on an engine stand) and pulled the oil pan, and to my susprise, i didn't spin a bearing...my crank was compleatly broken in half!!!!!:eek1: :eek1:
    you can get a base model 350 crate engine for around 900 to 1200 bucks..last i checked, when i was decideing what to do with mine, kragen auto parts was haveing a sale on crate engines and quoted me 900 bucks..but i see them listed all the time for 1100 to 1200..even if you don't know much about "mechanics" i say pull and install the engine yourself..its pretty straight foward..if you are worried about forgetting where things go when you get ready to install..get a poloroid camera, snap a buch of pics before you tear into it..i pulled my motor on my 1 hr lunch break at work..its that easy..yes i've pulled dozens of motors so i probably did it faster than you will be able to if you havent done it..but basiclly i just unbolted the tranny, drained the coolent, removed the hoses, disconnected exhaust, pulled out the radiator shroud. unhooked the battery cables and other electrical cables, hooked it to a cherry picker and took it out..the hardest part was the fact my truck is lifted and the cherry picker wouldn't go high enough to clear the radiator..so i had to take off my front wheels and i just carefully set the front on its axle..
    then put the old motor and new motor side by side and move everything from the old to the new and dropp that puppy in..
     
  8. BLZN4FN

    BLZN4FN 1/2 ton status

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    If it was me I would look into Auto Zone,Checkers ect for a long or short block. I know you had a lot of engine work done to the k5 but I dont remember what. there is also a 5.7 in the for sale ads he say's it carb not a porblem we can make it into a fuel injection motor. let me know what you come up with. I should be able to lend a helping hand
     
  9. firefighter184

    firefighter184 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Bo, PM sent.
     
  10. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Wait a minute here. Do you have an auto tranny? If so, take a minute to pull the converter cover and inspect the flexplate for a crack or broken center. You can even take the time to unbolt the converter from the flexplate and rotate it and slide it back so you have room. I would hate to see you get screwed by some shop for $1500 for a $10 flexplate problem.

    If the flexplate is broken, plan on unbolting the trans/tcase and sliding it back far enough to get a ratchet or torque wrench in there and install a new one.

    If its a spun bearing, then so be it - put in a crank kit, leave the pistons and rods in place and install a machined crank and matching rod and main bearings. This would be cheaper than the other alternatives - unless you can find a used motor that runs.
     
  11. 3 on the tree

    3 on the tree 1/2 ton status

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    Coupla years ago, I needed a motor for my Cherokee. I went on the net under used motors. Found one w/67K on it, delivered from Michigan to Colorado for a grand total of $550, including shipping.
     
  12. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Used parts is good parts...

    Usually when I need a motor,like I did when the 250 blew in my C10,I just head to the boneyard or auto auction,and ask all my mechanic friends if they know of any "deals"--I bought an 86 305 out of a G10 van with 115,000 miles from a friend who was scrapping it due to title problems(decent van too,a shame!)--it ran excellent,had good oil pressure-

    -I had to put a new timing chain,gears,and oil pump in it(timing gear teeth stuck in the screen!)--but it runs good, 200dollars for the engine,radiator,and any other parts I wanted,so I grabbed the hood for my 81 van!--local junkyards had only a few 305's for 250 bucks,no 350 carbed motor around then,but a few guys at the yards had cars they stashed away and saved from the crusher I could have bought for about the same price-

    -I almost prefer buying a whole vehicle--its more work pulling 2 motors,but you get all those little clips,dewhickies and other things without 100 trips to the junkyard--and when you have the job done,you can stuff all the uneeded junk in the shell of the vehicle and get at least 100 bucks for scrap!

    GM sells new "Mr.Goodwrench" motors for about 1150 bucks,with a gaurantee!--its hard to completely rebuild a motor for much less nowadays,unless you know a machinist--parts arent that expensive,but boring out a motor and other block work adds up fast--and valve jobs arent cheap anymore either unless you do it yourself--and its not really a project the average Joe can tackle in his backyard--but installing a complete motor is--its involved,but not impossible..I have done dozens of motor swaps,after the first one its not so hard...:crazy:
     
  13. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    yup always check the torque converter and flywheel out.... sometimes the bolt get loose and it will knock hard but if you could only do 25 mph thats a bearing. I had to drive to work while my motor was takin a ****(couldn't pull over on the freeway and i was only half mile away when it went) and i lost more and more speed.... by the time i got there it wouldn't move. Unless you were doing 25 mph because you didn't want to go any faster.

    You will have to pull the tranny and converter either way.
     

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