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Motor Oil ??

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by BluThndr71JMMY, Jul 8, 2001.

  1. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Now that I can't seem to find Valvoline SAE 30 weight Racing Oil, I'm not sure what to switch to.
    I prefer a single viscosity since I live in a hot climate with 114 F as maybe the extreme surface temp. Winter temps can run as low as 28 F.
    I'm running a 3 y.o.(just off warranty) 350 GM crate motor thru a SM 465 4-speed.
    Feedback?
     
  2. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    I run Mobil 1 in engines, transmissions and differentials, after having seen a SCCA SS '86 Corvette with digital oil temp gauge drop from 325 to 260 degrees F just switching from Exxon Uniflo to M1(Texas World Speedway, in August, pretty warm). I would use 5 or 10W30 in the summer, 0W30 in the winter. Your crate motor will last a long, long time using fresh synthetic oils. That is the "big iron" approach to motor oils, in my opinon.
     
  3. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    I know a lot of professional mechanics who run "whatever's cheapest" that has a good API rating. Their way of thinking is that on a street car the oil gets changed pretty regularly so it doesn't really much matter which brand you run since the additives will not break down before the oil change interval.

    That said, I would recommend you run a good quality multi-viscosity oil because you have such a wide swing in ambient temperatures. I'd think that a 10W-40 would work in those temperature extremes, and a 20W-50 would work if you give the engine time to warm up before driving it.

    WRT synthetics, I think that in a transmission or differential that is not leaking they're great, but they're not really necessary in a street-driven vehicle's engine. I have run Red Line's motor and gear oils in several cars. Excellent product and the oil temperatures were lower than with organics, with less sludge created due to hot operation (these were race cars). I have been running Castrol Syntorq in my NV4500 (the only gear oil that New Venture has approved for use in that transmission) and it seems to be very good. I am also running Valvoline synthetic in my transfer case. It also seems very good.
     
  4. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    I used to use Valv R 20w50 in my 454 K/10 '67 Sub in the winter and 40 weight in the summer,
    and in my 292 C/10 '68 stepside (w/ over 240,000 on the engine) I'm using 20w50 castrol [plus bardahl No-Smoke]. I used to run it on 50 weight in the summer and 40 in the winter.
    But that Racing Oil has doubled in price over the last few years and now they stopped selling 30 weight.
    I was told by a mechanic friend who helped me set up the 292, long ago, to change often -- about every 2000 miles -- due to the heat and blowing grit of our environment. Also that the cheapest oil filter was as good as any other with frequent oilchanges. All the same, I'm going to try the WIX next time.
    If I switch to a synthetic, do I have to flush the crankcase out with kerosene? ;>
     
  5. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    If you have a lot of miles on an engine, don't switch it to a synthetic. The synthetics do a REALLY good job of scrubbing out sludge that you didn't know was there and I have heard of a good number of cases where high mileage engines that were switched to synthetics suddenly lost oil pressure due to their pickups getting clogged with goop. If the engine is relatively low miles (less than 20K), then that should be fine, provided that it was treated to regular frequent oil changes.

    The WIX filters are really one of the better filters on the market. They manufacture filters for NAPA. Purolator and AC filters are also very good (and Delcos can be found pretty cheap at Pep Boys and Kmart).
     
  6. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    By that criteria, I should be able to switch to a synthetic on the Jimmy fairly soon. I'm down to about 4 quarts of fresh Valvo 30 Race anyway, two short of an oil change. Regular Valvoline won't be incompatable, I hope. Then, on the next oilchange, the 350 (@15-19K) should be OK for synthetic changeover.
    --I was kidding about the kerosene--
    On the 292 in the '68 -- that block is on its last legs and I will rebuild it this summer. Since it drips a lot and burns even more, I can't afford the good oil. It's just lasting 'til it gets relieved.
    I do like straight 30 weight for engine break-in, though. Funny, I've used Fram PH13s for better than 20 years w/o problem.
     
  7. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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  8. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Hey JB:
    I was just down at the Target store window shopping and I scoped out Mobil 1, at $4.49/US quart. The 15w50 seems gutsy enough for my extreme duty application. What should my oil change interval be with synthetics?
     
  9. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    Blue
    I change at 3k miles. I think back in the 80s that Mobil touted extended change intervals for M1, but no longer. Keep it clean with a good filter, which you don't have to spend a fortune for - see my link above. Magnetic drain plug, too. Consider a 0, 5 or 10W30 for winter.

    I have occasionally seen synthetic Exxon oil in a gold bottle (10W30, I think) for a buck or so cheaper than M1, but have never tried it (not available generally). The guys on the Sub board report finding 5 quart jugs of M1 at Walmart a little cheaper, but I don't go in there unless I am in a real bind.
    Had to laugh about your kerosene reference. My dad used to flush his pan with kerosene at every change, and let it drain overnight before refilling. Now that's fastidious....
    Take care
    JB
     
  10. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Actually I think I have abused the L22 292 L6 in the '68 stepside by flushing it out with ATF on occasion or Marvel Mystery oil. I would fill, then disconnect distributer and crank it. Why-- escapes me. Lucky for me those old stovebolts were made to stand up to a lot of abuse. It's still running. Someone along the line straightened me about obsolete tin-lizzie practices.
     
  11. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    ...hard to kill those old sixes...
     
  12. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah they are. In the pick-up, I'm still running a 292 I rebuilt in 1977. The original '68 block and parts I dissassembled and crated up at that time. This summer I'll rebuild it and hopefully get another 20 years. On the 4th, a buddy coming up to my house spotted an L6 abandoned in the middle of the road. We went down and snatched it. Some E-traffic on the Stovebolters Page about the block number came up with it being a 250 out of an '81 Blazer! I don't plan to build it anytime soon, but it gives me another core for scavenging parts and visual reference. A 250 oil pan, for instance, holds about 2 quarts less than a 292's, but the bolt holes are the same. 292 oil pans have gone off GM dealers' inventory but LMC Truck has them @ (only)$200. For serious 4-wheelin'-- a 292 is the ultimate low end torque monster: Easy to cool. Hard to kill. Lighter weight than an SBC. Much easier to tune. Not real freeway fast though. My Jimmy originally came with a 350 (and I like it) but I wonder if anybody's got a 1st/Gen K/5 with a 292 or 250 L22?
     
  13. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    back to the Mobile 1 conversation.......Walmart does sell them in 5 quart jugs, not an everyday item usually, kind of a promo thing they get in on a regular basis. Brings the price down to about $3 a quart. Much easier to handle on the wallet.

    Like em big and topless
     
  14. Klef72K5

    Klef72K5 1/2 ton status

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    Since a couple of you want to talk about oil filters read up!
    http://wsphotofews.excite.com/031/rw/Jo/og/t488200.jpg
     
  15. Klef72K5

    Klef72K5 1/2 ton status

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    Since a couple of you want to talk about oil filters, read up!
    http://wsphotofews.excite.com/031/rw/Jo/og/t488200.jpg
     
  16. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks, I checked out the oil filter site -- I'll never trust Fram again. I have a couple of Wix's I'm getting ready to slap in both trucks on their next oilchanges.Anybody ever try Chevron Delo 15-w40?[Sorry about the major digression on straight sixes. I'll save that stuff for the stovebolter world.]
     
  17. JungleBoy

    JungleBoy 1/2 ton status

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    The sixes are cool, especially with dual carbs and split exhaust.
    I think the filter study is one of the most fascinating things I have seen on the subject, and really is a great resource. It doesn't cost too much more to go first class.
    JB
     
  18. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    BluThndr71JMMY, oil don't care what kind of an engine it's in... Keep posting. I find learning about different stuff kind of fun.
     
  19. BluThndr71JMMY

    BluThndr71JMMY 1/2 ton status

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    JB: that's close to what I run on the pickup-- 4 Bbl Holley 390 CFM on Offy alum intake, out thru double 3-into-1 Clifford headers (23 years and still flowing!) into dual crossover exhaust and out turbo mufflers. It freaks the emissions-check people out when they read I have a straight 6 and then see 2 tailpipes.Anyway I'm thinking about going with an AFB-type 500 cfm Carter or Edelbrock on my next 292 incarnation. Would I be over-carbuerated? Actual displacement @ .030-over is 296 cid.Anyway, some research on the NoQuarterSix website shows that no 292s were factory options in K/5s. The 250 was available. But I wonder why not the 292?Another weird thought, getting back to the lubrication/oil filter thread: How good were the pre-'67 AC oil filters? The ones where you rinsed out the canister and only replaced the paper element? Year One has them for sale but I'd need to scour the junkyards for the block-mating adapter plate. Is there any advantage or is it just nostalgia-crazed period back-dating?Mr. _Chin: Thank you for your encouragement. I wasn't hiding, I just got swamped at work and couldn't hang out at my favorite websites like usual. I submit the 292 would be an excellent application in a 1st/Gen K/5.
     
  20. Steve_Chin

    Steve_Chin 1/2 ton status

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    BluThndr71JMMY, the filters with the replaceable elements are not much different than the canister filters: Get a good filter element and you're ahead of the game, get a bad one and you might be hurting later...
     

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