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motor specs

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by FatBoyBlazer, Jan 21, 2003.

  1. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    do these specs look acurate..... specs [​IMG]
     
  2. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Don't know...link doesn't work.

    Not trying to take this off-topic, but how do you like your BDS springs? I'm throwing around the idea of replacing my 4" front Rough Country springs with some 4" BDS. I want something with a nicer ride...how is it? Is it a "tall" 4 inches? That's my biggest worry - matching the rear 4" from Rough Country.
     
  3. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    try it now, yea it rides really nice, it cost me about 800 for the front and rear springs, u-bolts, 4 shocks, all the bushings. got them at Elias 4wd center in townsend, mass. he was the closest place, and the guy that runs it is a really knowledgable dude. if the link to the specs doesn't work i'll try to upload it some where else...... /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    About the specs...yeah, I suppose they check out. I don't see anything on there that makes me say, "Oh yeah, now that would make that a 340hp engine" Camshaft isn't anything too special. Although lift is on the higher side of most cams. Stock heads. So, yeah, 340 is probably a little on the generous side. Why do you ask...are you having this done to your engine? If you are...it sounds like a good one. Even if it doesn't make all of 340hp, it's filled with good components that will have a long life/be reliable.

    Thanks for the info on the springs...I guess it's going to come down to cost, actual height, and whether I want to go through the hassle.
     
  5. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    i was also thinking about going with roller rockers, would that increase the HP if so by how much, by the way, this is for a new motor, 2500 installed....its seems like a good deal....
     
  6. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    My buddy has just about that same engine (same basic specs) in his 68 camaro with the same 222/222 cam. I ran it in my blazer for a few months while I built my 415. I ran it on 33's with 3.07 gearing and a stock stall converter. The engine was slow off the line and would kick in about 3500 rpm and wind nicely up to 5500. Not exactly a good blazer engine but I guess thats relative to what your doing with your blazer. I enjoyed it on the steet but was left wanting more when wheeling. In his camaro he runs a 2800 stall on 3.50 gearing and its a tad slow for the first 5 feet or so, then it kicks in quick and hard (power to weight ratio works in his favor though). For the weight of the blazer, you might want to look into something with a smaller cam, making more torque at a lower rpm.
     
  7. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    The spec's read 212/212 and 444, 444 intake and exhaust. That is a Comp Cam's 260HE. Same cam I ran in my 350. I'd say 340 is pretty generous...prolly closer to 300 hp and 350 Tq.

    Pulled decently off idle and had decent mid range. By 4500 it was out of breath though.

    Mike:</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    33's with 3.07 gearing and a stock stall converter

    [/ QUOTE ]
    You can't blame the motor for the sluggishness there. It wound up by 3500 because the gearing was so tall... /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

    Rene
     
  8. motorheadnelson

    motorheadnelson Registered Member

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    2500 seems pretty decent for a turn-key price. On a fairly stock engine with hydraulic lifters you won't notice much as far as a power increase with roller rockers, unless your stock ones were really off-spec. The advantage besides the roller bearings creating less friction is that they are more consistent as far as ratio goes. Since you're not going with a huge lift, you might want to check out the comp cams roller tip rockers. I've used them with different applications and have been very happy with them. Very consistent tolerences, and you don't need to use polylocks to hold them down, like full rollers. About half the price, too.
     
  9. BorregoK5

    BorregoK5 1/2 ton status

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    Oops, thought it said 222, not 212.
    As for the gearing...

    I was putting it in perspective.. the 415 sbc I popped in there afterward felt like a dragster on the same drivetrain.. it would roast the 33's off idle, with a lower than stock stall converter. The 222/222 cam was too much for a stock stall converter, had I used his 2800 stall, I'll bet I would have been happier... on the road that is. It would have generated way too much heat for rock crawling use.
     
  10. muscle

    muscle 1/2 ton status

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    IMHO if you are going to do it - do it right.

    Have the crank, rods and pistons balanced and matched. I built up my own 400 with 365 HP and with similar specs. I installed Speed Pro 91/2 - 1 Hypereuectics .

    Port and polish your heads. Either have this done by a qualified machinist who knows how or have them show you where and how much material to remove. You can also port match the heads at the same time. I ported out my heads after my machinist showed me how. When I brought them back to him to finish the valve job he said I didnt do too bad. (he finished it up a little better but I saved alot of shop time)

    Install at least 1.95 intake valves and at least 1.75 exhaust.

    The head work you do now will make a huge differance in the outcome of the performance of your engine. Remember your motor is a big air pump. The faster and easier it is to breath, the more HP you will make.

    You can also rollerize the motor for more HP and higher rpm's but I'm suremost folks here are'nt interested in that high an extreme.

    Otherwise your specs look ok. I think I would add some roller-tip rockers but other than that you would be happy with those specs /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

    Just my $.02
     
  11. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    thanks for the tips /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  12. bigmack

    bigmack 1/2 ton status

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    Reply to : "Install at least 1.95 intake valves and at least 1.75 exhaust ".

    You meant 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust right ? I don't remember ever seeing a small block with an exhaust valve that big.
    .........................................................

    Those horsepower and torque figures might be a little generous. Did they say what kind of heads are on the motor ? If they are using basically stock heads like 882's or something, I just don't see how they are getting those kind of numbers out of it. Granted they are using good quality parts that make for a good engine. But the 350 4-barrell that came in my truck from the factory was rated at either 160 or 165 horsepower. I'm not trying to say it's not possible but I would be a little skeptical if I were you. Oh yeah one other thing that I noticed is that they say "visual inspect" on the block and heads. If it were me I wouldn't build or buy anything without having both the block and heads pressure tested to make sure there weren't any cracks in them.
     
  13. FatBoyBlazer

    FatBoyBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    well i need a new motor now, do to the fact that i've got no oil presure and its going click....clink...clink....and so really loud
     
  14. muscle

    muscle 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    You meant 1.94 intake and 1.50 exhaust right ? I don't remember ever seeing a small block with an exhaust valve that big.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    I do indeed. I had to think for a sec but those are the correct intake and exhaust sizes. (1.94/1.50) /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     

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