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Motor swap survey

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Oct 31, 2005.

?

What should I do?

  1. Remove AC and Heater. Put air intake in the cab

    8.3%
  2. Remove AC, make heater work somehow

    60.0%
  3. Replace both my AC and Heater

    31.7%
  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I am going to be doing a motor swap over Christmas break, hopefully. My truck has the old school R-12 AC, and it has a heater. I don't know much at all about either one of these systems. So what should I do when I do my motor swap?

    This truck will be used for trail riding and mud bogging. all seasons.
     
  2. guido666

    guido666 1/2 ton status

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    In Georgia you probably don't need a heater as bad as in Ohio :crazy: but it's always good. If you just want to take the drag off the motor, all you have to do is remove the A/C compressor and get a smaller belt ('78 Suburban right?). Serpentine belt will be more difficult. Either way, the heater should work even if you remove the A/C compressor, condensor (A/C's radiator like thing), and plumbing for A/C. Of course you can always go get just a heater setup from a junkyard.
     
  3. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    dont need ac :D thats what windows are for, also remove the op, but u got a burban. heat is alot more important, i can stand sitting in traffic when its 95* with no ac, but shivering to death when its 20* and no heat is a b****, i had to do it all last winter :mad:
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I would guess you'll want that A/C in the summer.
     
  5. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    It shouldn't be that hard to swap the AC...and you live in Georgia...just do it.
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    If the a/c system still works , use it . Does it blow cold ? If it does , leave it hooked up to the lines , just unbolt it from the motor and move it to the side , and try not to hurt it removing the motor :D
     
  7. neverendingproject

    neverendingproject 1/2 ton status

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    personally, I like a/c a lot, but i dont think it is necessary, keep your heater as it is nice int the winter and it can act as a second radiator if your real radiator get clogged with mud.

    I would keep a/c if its not too dig a deal.
     
  8. big94gmc

    big94gmc 1/2 ton status

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    Problem is, while offroading, you're not going fast enough to make it worth your while. A couple months ago, while riding with some buddies, the heat inside the cab (from the motor, etc) got very hot, but I didn't really realize it. 'Sure, well then, get outta the cab, a$$hole".... Not when I'm stuck, wedged against a tree, and can't get out of the drivers seat until I get freed. "Drink more water".... I hydrated more then enough the days leading up to the ride. It wasn't until I damn near passed out and fell out of the truck onto the dirt, had to have my friends Pop drive my truck off the trail, and have someone I didn't know on a quad take me back to the tow rigs for a trip to the hospital. I don't care how much horsepower it robs, I will have A/C in my trial rigs.
     
  9. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Yes it blows cold. I guess I will try to reuse it.. What if the R-12 escapes, will I melt like the wicked witch? I'm not familiar at all with AC systems.. :bow:
     
  10. RustBuket

    RustBuket 1/2 ton status

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    Na, you'll be fine. Its real bad for the environment. Just get out of the way if it sprays out.
     
  11. thor

    thor 1/2 ton status

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    I'ts not much more work to tie the ac off to the side if swapping similar packages (ie sbc to sbc) If it works i would only consider taking it off if you were going to a bbc and didn't have the right brackets or something like that.

    As for heat, i am not familiar with your home area, but defrosters are always important in early morning dewey conditions and rain.

    If your motivation is to put the intake in the cab, think about the cowl area.. You can move a 70s style radiator support end to the U shaped area above your ac on the firewall and hook the stock intake hose to it. That's what I did and it worked well for me, just have to cut a hole.
     
  12. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Very, good points, thanks for the advise... I wasn't even thinking about fogging up the windows :doah: ... I'll definitely try to keep the heater and AC.. Do you have any pics of your air intake setup?
    thanks,
    James :bow:
     
  13. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    the refrigerant wont hurt you unless theres an open flame around, thats when it becomes deadly. if a little leak out then it shouldnt be a big deal, but it shouldnt anyways, you should have to hit the schrader valve to do taht.
     
  14. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    it isnt as bad to let R12 out into the environment as it is producing 134a. dunno why they switched. :screwy:

    a little word of advice if you're going to leave the AC intact when pulling the motor... put a piece of plywood, or fairly thick metal between the condenser and the engine. this will avoid damage to the condenser. personally i have a piece of 1/8" steel that i keep around specifically for this purpose.
     
  15. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    This is gonna get a really good laugh......... but........here's my noob question......................................................................................................... What is a Condensor? where is it and what does it look like :bow: :laugh: :bow:
     
  16. stallion85

    stallion85 1/2 ton status

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    Do it right while you are in there (install heat and AC)and you won't regret it down the road :wink1:
     
  17. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    the AC radiator.
     
  18. RustyParts

    RustyParts 1/2 ton status

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    A/C systems went to R134 supposedly because the R12 was destroying the ozone layer above the earth.

    Your present A/C system can be converted to R134, most auto stores carry kits to do this.
     
  19. dubbyx

    dubbyx Registered Member

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    convert it now...

    it seems to me it'd be more hassle to try and save everything as it is... even at the worst, you're looking at about $250 in parts to put a whole new a/c system in using most of the same stuff you've got now.

    if you go ahead and convert it over, you'll know how to fix it when it breaks down the line, or if you have to pull the engine out for something later.

    to be on the completely safe side, go have the r-12 drained at a service station... no damage to the "ozone" and you won't have to risk breathing the stuff... the 134a's bad enough

    what kind of swap are you gonna do anyway? just sbc-sbc? or going BB? I'm getting the parts together to put that Olds 455 in my '84 burb.... having a hard time sleeping I'm so darned excited about it.
     
  20. colbystephens

    colbystephens 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    it's not too scary if you spring a leak, just make sure you get outta the way. that stuff can burn you if you get too much on your skin and leave it there. it feels similar on the skin as dry ice. :) but i think you should try and keep both systems - neither one is too difficult to work with. good luck.
     

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