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Motor/ Tranny mounts, need opinions

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Pure Insanity, Dec 9, 2002.

  1. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Heres the deal, when I built PI I installed all new motor and tranny mounts, I have ALWAYS thought they were too soft, and my shifters snap around when it shifts gears. Sundays little trip totally blew apart the tranny mount. It not only came apart, it slap ripped the secondary pin out thats supposed to restrain the tranny in case the rubber lets go. These mounts might have 8000 miles on them. Sunday was the 1st time I have REALLY hammered on the Blazer and I dont want to replace the mount every time I go out.

    I have been considering going to all solid mounts. I dont care about the vibrations as far as feeling them in the cab, or the already HARD shifts becoming a violent slam, (HEHE!) what bothers me is the vibrations rattling everything loose.

    Poly mounts are just too dang expensive, considering I can get "stock" parts at cost thru work, but it still adds up and I dont like having to work on PI everytime I play.

    SO I am considering some kind of a torque limiter at the front of the motor. Not a chain or anything like that, I am thinking heim joints on an adjustable rod. And a "torque arm" on the tranny mount. Try to follow this...my Cherokee had an arm between the tranny mount and the case that went to 1 side (I think it went to the left side IIRC to stop the tranny from lifting, twisting clock wise) and had bushings on the end of the arm (Picture a sway bar end link.) that went thru the crossmember to limit the trannys twist.

    So what do yall think?
     
  2. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Ahhh, so basicly noone has ever torn up mounts and tried to think of a better way to avoid it happening again? /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  3. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    Just bite the bullet & get the polly mounts and be done with it. FWP has trans or transfer case mounts and the polly mounts that fit into the oem clamshell mtr mount. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
    I think Leadfoot has some pics of some nice fabed up polly eng mounts in webshots.
    Jim
     
  4. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Finally a reply. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

    Thanx for your input, I am thinking Im gonna have to just do it and get the poly. Id like to go solid, but they worry me in a daily driver. If it was a weekend trail toy I wouldnt sweat it. Id really like to hear some input from anyone that has solid mounts.

    I priced the poly vs. solid, like 25-30 a pair for the motor and 20 for the trans. Poly was 25-30 each, and about 25 for the trans. So the price isnt a real big deal, as long as I dont shread a poly trans mount. At that point Ill definately go solid.

    Id just prefer to do this 1 time unless Im pulling the motor. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
     
  5. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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  6. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Your asking a bunch of Rock-Crushers a question that would be more in-line to the 1/4 mile guys. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Just some odd thoughts on the subject......

    You blew the tranny mount. Lets explore this in further detail.

    I figure you must have one-nasty shifting trans. So when it does shift, the engine/trans assembly wants to rotate to the Driver's Right - hard. No big deal, that action should stress the driver's side engine mount, 'prolly rip-it apart. A chain, or a link - as you have said would keep it to-gather, a fairly common fix. Allthough, I think, I would just replace the DRIVER'S side rubber ENGINE mount with a polly-unit and call it good. That way, the engine can still move around a bit, the frame can still flex around the engine, and the vibrations can still be dampend (allthough, to a lesser extent) and nothing gets overly stressed.
    BUT - why did the trans mount let-go first ?
    It could be that it was the weak-link in the system, or....
    it could be that something isn't in-line, the engine isn't sitting flat in the frame, or the drive-line is pushed over one way or another, or the engine/trans isn't parallel, Ect...
    Also, don't forget to check the drive-line slip-joint.
    When the trans shifts, the pinion climes the ring-gear and pushes the drive-line forward, making it shorter than it is at ride-height. If all the play in the slip-joint is all-ready taken up at ride-height - then there would be no room for it too move...


    Fwak--- I gotta go...
     
  7. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    Good points Eric. I went ahead and replaced the tranny mount w/ another rubber one and built the torque arm I mentioned above. Its not quite done yet, I still have to pick up a sway bar end link set to use as the link between the frame and the arm.

    I did notice the new mount looked compressed on the passengers side for some reason that got me to lookin at the eng mounts. They are still fine and centered. Im not sure what the deal is.

    The tranny will shake your fillings loose. It hits HARD @ 3000 RPM in normal driving. Even w/ the new mount the shifters still slap around some on shifts. Not quite as bad but still do pretty good. Well lets put it this way, the Tcase shifter, the indicater will pull back beyond the 2wd position. It moves a good 3/4 -1 inch. And thats w/ the new mount.

    I just dont get why it is like this. Im sure there are others here w/ more powerful motors and Ive never heard them having any problems.

    I have been looking at the front of the motor to put on a limiting strap or link, (no chains) but the PS pump and AC comp. is in the way. Theres gotta be a way to do this, I have seen it before. I need to look into it more.
     

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