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mounting a roll cage

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 69K5, Apr 10, 2003.

  1. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    the other day i saw a landrover and it had its roll cage mounted to the bed tops.it definatley looked factory. anyone thought about this? i could add some support all the way through the wall and still connect it to the frame. maybe even have it where it could unblot and come off like the tap although i doubt it.this way i wouldnt loose interior space. the top is very likel;y never going back on. i will try to find some picks of this on a landrover to post.

    thanks

    nathan
    69K5
     
  2. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Nathan....

    Sounds weird to me. You'd have to mount the cage to the bedrail.....the upper bedrail to the floor, and the floor to the frame. Every one of those connections is a potential "failure point" in a rollover unless you are somehow going to triangulate across the truck to strengthen it.

    Of course you can kiss your interior good-bye once you start triangulating things!

    I'd take a look at a more "conventional" cage. If you do it right, you only lose the thickness of the tubing on each side of the truck (interior space-wise). There's no reason why a well-designed cage should cost you any rear seating area, or create a lot of problems with legroom.

    PLUS,

    If you actually built the cage on top of the bedrails, I doubt you could even get a softtop to fit. Most of the designs I've seen use the bedrails to mount their frames.....so you'd be stuck either with a permanent convertible, or dealing with getting a custom top made.

    /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  3. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with Greg. My soft top mounts to the top of the bed rails and my roll bar doesn't interfer with the rear seat area. roll bar does come very close to the bed rails so if your conserned about it, you could probably fab up some additional brackets.

    By the way, I saw a full 8pt cage advertised in Washington on Bargaintrader.com for $300.
    [ QUOTE ]
    For Sale in , WA 1969-1972 CHEVY BLAZER 8 point roll cage, professionaly built, fit checked, never used $300, 360-438-3439

    [/ QUOTE ]
     
  4. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    greg
    land rover
    here is a pic of the same kind you cant really see it good here. its a dicovery. it had a flat plate on both sides of the dheetmetal and some massive bolts throught it. the plates were id say3'16 or 1/4 inch. i could see the failure point also. they did it just like you said by tying it together through the bed rail, the floor pan and then to the frame. If it wasnt factory i want the guy who did its name cause it was clean. maybe they just had it for looks mostly.
    some places had things called safari racks but this defender didnt have an additional roll bars like the ones on the internet.

    my other insane idea was to connect it to the windshild frame but even with cross bars id decide it would fold down and kill me. i will probably just go with a full roll cage (family cage)

    bouncy truck thanks for the classified. just to far away from the truck to be buying one now. seems like a good price though.

    thanks again

    nathan
     
  5. bouncytruck

    bouncytruck 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, thats a defender. They came that way. You could get them with the hard top or a soft top. The soft tops have hole and it snaps round the roll bars. I don't know if those are really a "functional" roll cage or just styling. They are suppost to be a very capable 4x4 and they hold there value well. I knew a guy with one and people would come up to him and offer him more than he paid new for it. I don't get it - especially since a land rover with more than 30K miles is ready to completely fall apart.

    I've seen rigs with the exterior roll cages before. I don't know what the advantages would be though.
     
  6. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    Well having to work on those trucks I can say that the exo-cage will save your life! The mounting points on the body have about 1/2" of tube sticking through the body. There are bars inside of the body for support. I have tipped more than one back onto its wheels before. Other than the Aluminum panels bending the truck was OK! /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif OVERBUILT they are. The station wagons (hard top) were cool but they usually only had the wind screen hoop exposed. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  7. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    ntajep

    does the bar come through and a flaired piece fit over it or do they just use the ring to keep some squeeking down?
    what do you mean buy inside the body for support? i am gonna have to find some pics of one stripped.

    greg

    your the engineer what do you think about what ntajeep said. i want this safe not for me but b/c my baby girl will be here in august and she will naturaully love first gens. (its in her blood you know)

    thanks again

    nathan
     
  8. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Nathan,

    The Defender cage is a perfectly good & safe design....but I think it's done that way largely for "coolness factor".

    There is something about an exocage that makes people think "safari" and "rhinos charging the truck"....and other marketing stuff like that. Personally I'm a bit perplexed by the whole concept of exocages from an aesthetic and "serviceability" perspective..... I'll bet they're hard to wash and wax too!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    Anyway, the strength of a cage is going to be based on it's overall shape (straight bar setions are stronger than bends), quality of the welds and gussets, and most importantly, the way it is tied to the vehicle (with good mounting plates top & bottom) and possibly even to the frame if you don't mind the noise and vibration!

    The worst thing you could do is install a big cage that's really not tied down well, and only have the "illusion" of safety.

    The cages I've built so far use 2" DOM (.125" wall) and 1/4" mounting plates on BOTH sides of the body, and I try to design the mounting points to integrate with existing cab supports, so that it's not just a piece of 20 gauge metal holding the cage down. There is an INSANE amount of strength added to the truck even though I haven't gone all the way to the frame.... I'd say if you want an even greater margin of safety, get a seat cradle tied into the cage, and make sure your seatbelts are connected to the cage as well....

    The costs to go all the way through the body and down to the frame would be a lot of $$$. I know that even getting a conventional 6-Point tied safely to the cab eats up a lot of my time during a build......
     
  9. 69K5

    69K5 1/2 ton status

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    greg

    i would have to say that the coolness factor worked on me except for the visions of rhinos. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    I have decided to go with a normal 8 point cage. i dont want any compromises with the safety of my wife and baby girl. my head is hard enough to take the hit. I hadnt thought about tying it in through body mounts. That seems a lot easier than using the poly bushing idea to tie it to the frame.

    thanks for all the input. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

    nathan
    69K5 /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     

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