Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Move rear axle or leave it stock location?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TX Mudder, Oct 16, 2002.

  1. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2000
    Posts:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston
    It looks liekthe consensus is to move the front axle 1.5" forward for better alignment in wheelwell.

    What about the rear axle? Move it back some or keep it where it's at?
    -- Mike
     
  2. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2001
    Posts:
    1,290
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    Since /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif have such bad departure angles, moving the rear axle back helps a lot. After a shackle flip, it also helps to move the rear axle back into the center of the wheel wells, although it is not that far off. On a /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif about the max you can move the rear axle back w/o hitting the tank is ~3" I think. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Don't quote me on that one. Don't know about /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif.
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    As was said earlier, moving back helps departure. You can also cut the bed sides back (like moneypit) to dramatically help.

    On my rig, I have almost a 90* departure and I'm running a small K5 tank mounted higher than stock (about 2" above the frame). I built a cross member at the front of the tank that has a bump stop mounted so that the axle can not hit the tank. This provides me with up to 6.5" of up travel at the diff with much more on the sides available for articulation...
     
  4. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2002
    Posts:
    5,653
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Pocatello, ID
    What did you have to go through to raise the tank? I have been thinking about doing this.
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    Well, remember, I was converting a K30 to use a K5 tank so, I had to do everything from scratch. However, I used cross members from a Suburban so it would be much the same for raising the tank on a K5.

    Basically, cut the rivets out of the tank cross members and remove them. Then, notch the ends at the location where they will fit over the frame lip, build a "leg" to stabilize the bottom, and a bracket to tie the top to the frame. Here is a pic of my front tank cross member installed, you will need to do something similar...
    [​IMG]
     
  6. blk87K5

    blk87K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2001
    Posts:
    1,290
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Lubbock, Texas
    To raise it up about 1", you can cut and splice the straps holding the tank up. Then modify the skid plate to match. Don't know how to get it up much higher than that with out Viagra.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2001
    Posts:
    7,777
    Likes Received:
    11
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    I'm confused, how is that possible when the tank fits up in the "cup" formed by the 2 cross members? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     

Share This Page