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My ARB Solution

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by broc944, Sep 9, 2006.

  1. broc944

    broc944 1/2 ton status

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    This is my solution to knowing the status of my on board air system and ARB Locker.
    HPIM0867.JPG

    I mounted this gauge pod from the roof of the Sub, at the proper angle so all I have to do is look up to my right and I can see it very clearly.

    The gauge on the left is my regulated tank pressure, I also have a gauge on the regulator located under the hood. The light above this gauge tells me the compressor has power to it and is ready to run if the tank pressure drops below 125 PSI.

    The gauge in the middle tells me the rear ARB air pressure, the light above it tells me the ARB solenoid has power and that it has opened.

    The gauge on the right is my pressure in the twin 5 gallon tanks under the truck, the light above this gauge indicates that the compressor clutch has kicked in and the compressor is running.

    I have a floor mounted dimmer switch I use my left foot to turn on and off the ARB, I found this much nicer to use then the rocker switch that came with the ARB, I never have to look for the switch, it is so super simple to install and operate.

    I also have a switch that turns the compressor on, without activating the ARB, actually I used a relay to lock out the locker.

    I left intact the capability for the truck to increase idle speed when the compressor kicks in, since I aced the factory A/C, all I had to do for this was to tie into the factory harness, this comes in handy when airing the tires back up.

    I will be installing another gauge pod with another air gauge for the front ARB, and will locate it behind the current gauge pod.

    This my first attempt on any type of write up, I hope this makes sense.

    I failed to mention the fact that I am not using ARB compressors, I am using A York, since I am at it, I have a air coupling on the front of the truck that has regulated air pressure to it 95 PSI, and one in the rear of the truck that has unregulated air pressure to it, so it is the same pressure as to whatever is in the tanks at the time, between 125 PSI and 150 PSI.

    HPIM0867.JPG
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2006
  2. TeK

    TeK 1/2 ton status

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    that looks really good. I have a spare pod like that I may have to borrow your idea.
     
  3. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    That looks great. Very clean install.
     
  4. jekquistk5

    jekquistk5 Weld nekid Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    that is pure sexiness!! Anymore pics of the air lines how you set em up/ solenoids etc
     
  5. badmix

    badmix 1/2 ton status

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    Bah. Linked pics, we all cant see. Oh well. Im sure it looks good, the write up isnt bad.
     
  6. broc944

    broc944 1/2 ton status

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    HPIM0873.JPG
    Not the greatest pic, but this is the manifold I built, there will be another solenoid installed, along with another pressure relief valve on the regulated side to protect the locker themselves in case air pressure gets to high. The capped copper tube is for a future modification I am working on.

    Some of the lines you can not see in this pic. All the main air lines are copper, even the ARB line except the last two feet, which is high pressure A/C line. All lines are covered in loom for even more protection.

    I am planning to do some more fab work on this part since it looks like $hit.

    HPIM0874.JPG

    This shows the York and how I routed the main line over to the filter. Once again I am not to happy how I did this, so this will get changed also.

    As far as how I ran the lines under the truck, I hid everything out of harms way. I drive through a lot of wooded area, and do not want stumps and dead limbs ripping lines off.

    HPIM0873.JPG

    HPIM0874.JPG
     
  7. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Sexy indeed. I have no roof, or I'd do a pod like that ... I'm in the same position, using York instead of the wimpy ARB compressor, so my gauges and regulators are strewn about the truck (some up front, by the York and the plumbing to the ARB, the rest in the back by the tank.)

    OTOH, I did do the light thing... nuked the ashtray from the truck and put in one of my patented (j/k) James Bond control panels. The blue switch is for the driving lights, the green one clutches the York -- and the green light indicates whether the pressure switch has bypassed it or not, and the red switch controls the ARB solenoid. The orange switch is connected to the factory idle stop solenoid to bump the idle up for running the York, though it's a bit wonky still.



    http://www.slosh.com/dremu/dark-side-calls-me.JPG

    http://www.slosh.com/dremu/tailgate-final-nice.JPG


    -- A
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2006
  8. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Broc944, no fair ... your compressor fit sideways. I'm still running V-belts ('74 K5) and so mine went upright. Plumbed easily enough, but not as nice looking as yours :)

    Oh, hey, one other question ... how'd you do the idle-bump with the factory AC? Do you just run 12V back into the AC clutch circuit, or is there a mechanical idle stop somewhere?

    Oh, crap, but if you're serpentine you're running TBI, too, so it prolly just goes into the computer?

    -- A
     
  9. broc944

    broc944 1/2 ton status

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    Yep, computer senses the voltage and does the rest.
     
  10. Clod_King

    Clod_King 1/2 ton status

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    Man I really want to see that bond ash tray. could you make it so everyone can see it man?
     
  11. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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  12. badmix

    badmix 1/2 ton status

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    Actually that looks pretty damn cool. Im sure it was a tight fit, did you remove that whole assembly to get the switches in there? Ive looked at removing mine, but it doesnt look like itll jus pop out, etc.

    Anyways here is what I stuffed in ashtray spot.

    [​IMG]

    Here is what it does.

    http://media.putfile.com/WigWamIII

    :D
     
  13. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Removing the whole assembly is a PITA -- I did it once, won't do it again. Don't have to, just have to have six foot arms with eight elbows to wire around there.

    Helps if the driver's side plastic heater duct was tossed :)

    -- A
     

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