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My Dana 60 Death Wobble Cure

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bigbluek20, Dec 11, 2002.

  1. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    The threads on this subject and possible causes are long and filled with good thoughts from distinguished folks (do some searches on Dana 60 Death Wobble for more background).

    The final fix for me seems to have come with the replacement of the nylon bushings on the upper king pin. After examining the old ones closer, the bottom view best describes what is happening:

    [​IMG]

    These are both the old ones (sorry, didn't photograph the new ones). I tried to take the photo centered to eliminate distortion. Looking at the thickness going around you can see the variation. Especially evident is the difference toward the outside (where the key is). This would stand to reason since the pressure would be against this point with the weight of the vehicle.

    It also makes sense that wider wheels are going to worsen this. I have seen posts where some problems have gone away with re-balancing tires; IMHO, this was taking away the trigger, not eliminating the cause (mine was triggered by bad bumps on one side or by braking with rotors that should probably be turned).

    Enough said, just wanted to share my solution (that has taken nearly a year to come to... of course the truck has been down for various other mods a lot of that time, too /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )

    BTW, I tried to replace the King Pin while I was at it... 5 foot cheater and neighbor searching with traction and me beating on a 1' wrench with a sledge at the same time produced nothing but broken tools. A tip though, my 7/8" lug nut with a 7/8" socket made a great allen's head!

    Hopefully this will help someone else. I had passed by this after an inspection when installing the axle.
     
  2. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I think you hit the nail on the head. I have not installed my D60 yet, (still rebuilding it) but I have not heard of anyone rebuilding those 1200.00 axles before installing them. When I tore apart my D60 that was supposedly a low mileage axle from a yard truck I found it was all wore out and in desperate need of a full rebuild. I hope when mine is installed that I don't experience any death wobble.
     
  3. tomseviltwin

    tomseviltwin 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    When I tore apart my D60 that was supposedly a low mileage axle from a yard truck I found it was all wore out and in desperate need of a full rebuild

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Me too, now that Boyce price doesn't seem as far off /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  4. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Me too, now that Boyce price doesn't seem as far off

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah, By the time I got the axles, hubs, fresh bearings, new seals, and misc. parts I was up to $400 (plus the purchase price of about $650 after parting the rest of the truck).

    Considering I still had to deal with my death wobble, Boyce might have been the better choice /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  5. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    Cool, I see what you mean, I did not look at mine that closely. I will however order a pair and replace mine to see if it helps. They are pretty cheap.

    Depdog
     
  6. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    Where did you get the bushings? What was the p/n and how much? What was involved in replacing them?
     
  7. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    AFAIK, they are a dealer only item. I bought a complete set with springs and pins from a friend who had extras from building his 60 (springs showed very minute sag, couldn't get the king pins out, as mentioned above... anyone want to buy some king pins?).

    I might have the GM P/N at home if you need, but the dealer should be able to look it up... I think they are about $15 each.

    Install couldn't be easier... jack up the truck, remove the tire, remove the 4 bolts or nuts and cover or steering arm, pop out the bushing. Reverse for install. I torqued to about 80 ft-lbs on the bolts/nuts
     
  8. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    The kingpin bushing is not a Dealer only item, you can get it from anyone that sells Spicer Parts. The part number is 41886

    Depdog
     
  9. kpanza

    kpanza 1/2 ton status

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    Glad this worked out for ya, but just wanted to say that when I got my D60 I rebuilt EVERYTHING before installing it, and still have the damn DW...it's not as bad with fresh frame/shackle bushings, and even with my Redneck Ram I still get some wobble... /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif But I definitely think you are on to something here, hope it helps out others...
     
  10. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    To really beat this to death, I just ordered mine from Randys Ring and Pinion, right at $12.00 for the pair shipped to my door. Part number 41886 they are like $3.50 each.

    Depdog
     
  11. desertrat67

    desertrat67 Hawk Driver

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    replaced those and the springs and it didn't do a darn thing.
     
  12. BlueOx

    BlueOx 1/2 ton status

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    What do the springs do?
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Keep the bushing snug down on the kink pin...
     
  14. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    What are you all setting your knuckle preload at?
     
  15. BigBurban350

    BigBurban350 1/2 ton status

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    Is that JB weld? "If you cant fix it, JB weld it"
     
  16. Depdog

    Depdog 1/2 ton status Author

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    On a Dana 60 you cant set the knuckle preload like you can with the threaded steel bushing on 10 bolts or Dana 44's. The spring is what sets it and the cap is just tightned down like a regular nut. I guess you could put a spacer in there to make the spring tighter.

    UPDATE ON MY DW I replaced the bushings, set my toe in at 1/8" toed in at the front. Checked and snugged up all my leaf spring and shackle bushings on the front and checked all my tie rod and drag link ends (all good and tight tie rod and ends are brand new). This took out about 85% of mine. Only does it at a very tiny spot accelerating and decelerating and that is not all the time. I think balancing my tires will cure mine totally. I have no idea what my camber is right now though.

    Depdog
     
  17. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    Actually, that was a mixture of form-a-thread... trying to seal some screwed up threads around the heater hose adapter into the manifold... and still trying (messed them up chipping out the brittle factory "click-in" piece of junk). /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif
     
  18. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    One other thing to check... rotor run-out. I still had some shake left on braking... I noticed how horrible the rotors were last night while installing my new Alcan springs. I'll get those turned when I do the R&amp;P.

    I kind of suspicioned it was there, but knew it wasn't the source as I was getting DW hitting bumps without applying the brakes.

    One other note on the cure... my steering is MUCH more managable and easy on rough roads (you know, the paved ones here in Colorado... they are on par with roads in some 3rd world countries I have visited!)
     
  19. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    They run tapered roller bearings on the king pin axis do they not? Or do they use a bushing?
     
  20. bigbluek20

    bigbluek20 1/2 ton status

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    Tapered Roller Lower and Bushing Upper
     

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