Ok, saw a couple of other posts about 700R4's and thought I'd share the experience I just went through. For most of you, this may be old news, or maybe you never dealt with it, but when I was doing my homework, I thought I'd done it well. Not. I bought a 76 Blazer that is my project and I will post a complete report on what I did to it when I finish it. However, one of the things I did was to swap out the TH350 in favor of a built 700R4. Why? Because I drive long distances to wheel, don't like shifting a clutch anymore and anticipate wheeling when I'm an old fart and can't, and want decent gas mileage and performance on the highway while I'm headed to the desert and the OD accomplishes that. So, Shucks Transmission in Dublin, CA has always done me very well and I have them build me basically a Bowtie Overdrive copy. I was very good at reading every post I could find on this conversion on CK5 and Pirate. The PO had installed an NP205 and a Gear Vendors OD. I removed the OD and sold it. I was pleased to already have the NP205 which is in good shape. The vast majority of posts recommended going with an Advance Adapters short shaft to mate up the 700R4 to the TC. I could find no downside to this, but may have missed it. So, the tranny gets built and installed. The crossmembers have to move about 1-2 inches back but no biggie. The shop installs it and gets everything hooked up. I haven't purchased drivelines yet so I tow it back home. I have a Corp14ff in the rear and wanted 1350 CV's so a call to High Angle Driveline gets me a nice rear shaft. 1350 CV up front, 1410 yoke out back with the strap style yoke for the diff. Now it comes time for the front shaft. I planned on a 1350 CV up front. Not to be. The 700R4 tranny pan is waaaaaaaaaaay too close to the front TC yoke to accomodate it. Now I'm really pissed. I posted this before and solicited opinions but apparently too late. Turns out that the better way to go is not with the Advance Adapters short shaft, but with a spacer that simply moves the TC farther back. Doing so gets you plenty of room for a 1350 CV to fit. Now, there is a minor downside to the spacer. As it is, I had to heat and bend my TC lever to make it work with the existing boot setup. This wasn't a big deal for only about 1.5 inches of movement. With the spacer, you can figure at least a three inch drop backwards, maybe a little more. This would mean a serious tweaking of the lever, or perhaps even a custom setup. But, I would have chosen to go that route and obtained the 1350 CV. It now looks like I'm going to have to run a 1310 CV up front. I have a D60 and 315/75R16 MTR's. I am a little worried that the weak link will be this 1310 CV shaft. I pulled off a 1310 from my 74 and put it on just to check the clearances today. The D60 has a 1350 yoke but I was able to bolt it in temporarily to check it out. You can see from the pics that the clearances are pretty tight even with the 1310. I jacked up both sides and played iwth angles to see if it would hit the pan. I don't think it will, but it is close. I'll be having a 1310 CV for the TC and a 1350 for the diff built for me I guess. I'm pretty bummed out because I've gone heavy duty on everything for my rig in the name of durability. I don't rock crawl or mud run, I mainly do remote desert exploration and the name of the game is making it back out. Just thought I'd pass along my experience for anybody considering this same swap. I suppose I can console myself with knowing that the "fuse" in my driveline will be that shaft and better to break a front shaft and drive out in 2 wheel drive than with something more critical in the axle snapped I suppose. If I would have read anywhere that clearance was going to be an issue, I would've gone with the spacer. I still may down the line after the missus calms down from all the money I've spent on this project.