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My noisy rims -- ideas?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Blue85, Oct 15, 2002.

  1. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    My wheels seem to make a funny clicking/rattling noise. Every time I take them off and put them on again, the noise goes away for a couple of days. If I retighten the lug nuts, it gets a little better but then comes back. I have removed the center caps, but this doesn't help. It will go click, click, click about 4 times per revolution. All four wheels do it. Wheels are Mickey Thompson Classic II 15x10. I never had this noise with my old steel wheels, only noisy center caps from time to time.

    What can I do to stop it?

    Is it safe to cut some gasket material to put between the hub/rotor and wheel?
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    In my thinking, the lugnuts should pull the wheel up so tight that there should be NO reason for that noise. (and no need for gaskets to silence any noise)

    Curious, it's only with these wheels, and NOT repeatable with the wheels off (say truck either off the ground in 4wd) different wheels/tires, or just spinning the rotors with the lug nuts tight?
     
  3. bajaviking

    bajaviking 1/2 ton status

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    All 4 wheels are doing this?
     
  4. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    We just had a truck in the shop doing the same thing, found that is wes the bevel on the lug nuts did not fit the bevel in the holes of the wheels properly, they allowed for a slight bit of movement. we replaced all the lug nuts and the noise went away and stayed away. i've never seen anything like it before. the only way we found the problem was by noticeing some very fine aluminum shavings in the holes on the rims, after checking absolutley every other possible cause of course /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  5. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    I've seen that before, it even happened to me.
    The problem is that not every wheel or nut for that matter has the same angle on the conical part, and then an old nut sometimes gets out of round on the outside, that is why evry couple of years I just change them all for new ones, cheap insurance.
     
  6. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah and I could see it being worse if you use the same lug nuts that were used for steel wheels before.
     
  7. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    The lugnuts were all new for these wheels. All 4 wheels do it, although the fronts seem a little worse. This could be due to weight. The rear studs/lugs are 9/16" and the fronts are 7/16", so it's not even the same lug nuts front and rear. Each wheel has two wheel locks on it, directly opposite of each other. I only did this because I had to buy two sets anyway. It is possible that the noise started after I got the wheel locks. I don't remember. When it is making the noise, it is just a little worse when I am braking. When I lift a wheel off the ground and rotate it by hand, there is no noise. As the weight of the truck comes back onto the tire, it will make one or two little clicks. I know that these wheels have steel inserts of some kind inside the lug nut area.

    All the comments are very interesting. Any other thoughts?
     
  8. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I already pulled everything apart and checked the wheel bearings, ball joints, hubs and U-joints when the noise started. At that point it may not have been coming from all the wheels and I was just trying to figure out what the heck it was. Of course, every time I put it back together, the noise was gone (temporarily), so I thought that I fixed it about 3 times.

    How do I match the tapers?
     
  9. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Well you have aluminum wheels, are you over torquing them?
    You shouldn't torque them too much.
     
  10. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    How much? I torque them with a 12" ratchet. I have tried less (firm) and more (good grunt). More is quieter.
     
  11. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> A 12" ratchet probably will barely get them tight enough, at least not evenly. Beg or borrow a torque wrench and get them to about 90 ft-lbs and see what happens. there are a couple different profiles available for the conical lugs, I'd call the wheel manufacturer or look on the website to see what they call for and ensure that you're using the right lugnuts. Use antiseixe on the studs when installing the wheels too, it will give better torque valuse and prevent galled threads.</font color>
     
  12. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    90Lbs for aluminum wheels?
    all the books I have say 35-45Lbs, no more...
     
  13. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I have an 18" torque wrench, so that is no problem. I was just using something small to keep me from overtightening. 90 is a lot higher than anything I have heard for alloy wheels.

    I am considering putting antiseize in the taper as well. It's possible that there is a lot of binding there. If nothing else, it should give me a pattern to see where the nuts contact the rims and where they don't
     
  14. COLLISION

    COLLISION 1/2 ton status

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    Have you tried removing the lock nuts and see if that is your problem?
    Or maybe try to put a bit of grease where the lugs make contact with the wheel, just to see if that will cure the problem.
    There is nothing worse than trying to track down a noise like that.
    Another thought, are the wheel mating surfaces flush or true, as well as the drums or rotors?
    Hope this helps /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  15. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> I'd be scared with that little torque on any wheel. I generally run steel wheels, but my Z28 factory alloys I torqued to 80 all the time with no ill effects.

    *EDIT*

    OK, I just called Mickey Thompson. the Classic II's have a steel insert for the lugnuts, they said that factory spec is perfect, which is 100 lb-ft on your truck. The lugnuts should be a normal 60 degree tapered seat lugnut. I think your problem is the lack of proper torque on the wheels. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
     
  16. codeman

    codeman Registered Member

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    All tire places torque alluminum wheels to 100 lb/ft.
     
  17. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    You may be right. If it's just improper torque, then I'm embarassed because a) that means I'm a bonehead and b) I should have been the one calling the manufacturer a long time ago. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

    I will make sure the mating surface is really clean, put a touch of grease in the tapered surface (but not the threads) and then torque to 100ft.lbs. Thanks everyone.

    That's a great plus to the BB. Even if people can't see what you're working on, with enough people thinking about it, someone is bound to think of the stupid thing that was overlooked.
     
  18. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    I win the dunce award! I torqued all the rims to 90 lb-ft. and everything is great now. I was only at 50 lb-ft before.

    Thanks for all of the advice.
    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  19. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> Excellent, good to hear! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif </font color>
     

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