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n00b question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MrArmyAnt, Apr 18, 2006.

  1. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    There are locking hubs for the front, but are there for the rear? I was thinking about a locker but wouldn't an unlocked hub just run one tire, the other free spinning? Wouldn't that solve the problem? Then go back and lock that tire when going off road?
     
  2. koldsimer

    koldsimer 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    They make them for certain d60 rear axles- i believe they are for dodge applications. Can't remember who makes them but they are out there. The d60 is the only rear axle I know of that they do this with.
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I think I have seen Jeeps use hubs on the rear.
    Don't know what the advantage would be..if it ain't locked then you will not move and if oneside is locked then all your drive is on one tire.
    For a fullsize I don't think a hub on the rear is strong enough to survive for very long...

    .02c
     
  4. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    Not meant like that. I meant say you weld the rear diff. Both locked. Now if you unlocked the hub the inner axel would spin but the tire wouldnt. so street driving like it is now. then for offroad you switch it back. removes the need for lockers or selectable lockers.
     
  5. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    this is not a good idea. i have seen it when people run a welded front with one hub unlocked. it might be ok on completely dry surfaces, but on any kind of slick or uneven traction, it tends to have funny characteristic.

    there are several axles that can be converted to rear locking hubs. the reason that people mainly do this to jeeps, it because they like to flat tow them, say behind their motorhome. that way they dont burnup the t-case even though it is in neutral.

    though this may have an advantage like you think, there are other dis-advantages. one of them being the "play" that you would be introducing to the drive train. locking hubs have a sort of "wind-up". ever notice the front tires of a rig in 4 wheel drive, and the power to them has sort of a pulse? this is partly due to all the play in the entire drivetrain. some of this cant be avoided such as the play in drivelines. but some can. this is one of the reasons people put flanges in the front axle. they are stronger and have less play because of less moving parts.

    one more thing to remember, hubs can only go on a full float axle.
     
  6. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    Its a 14b ff. so what are these front flanges?
     
  7. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    Ok well I have lockable hubs in the front, and am swapping in a 205. I could weld the dana 44 right? So I could put that in 2hi and unlock the hubs for dd, then lock the hubs and put it in 4 low and be locked again?
     
  8. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    the logic on your last post appears to be correct. jsut weld the rear and live with it. ive done it and it really isnt that bad. it is a little different, but predictable. for the front, if you want to keep your steering alive, dont weld it or run a spool. you will notice a lot more resistance and loss of turning radius. with that said, if you do, make sure you phase the u-joints together to make it a little easier. some chevy trucks along with some other brands had full time 4x4 in the 70's. these came with a 203 t-case that had a differential in the t-case so were sort of an all-wheel drive setup. the 1/2 and 3/4 tons used D44's with drive flanges. the 1 tons i sure had 60's with flanges. it is the same thing that you can get aftermarket but probably cheaper. you probably dont want to run with flanges on the street, but can be done. you will just "drag" your front end around all the time and get worse gas miliage, yes it is possible to get even worse. if you wanted to run hubs in the rear you would need custom axles and custom hubs. you might be able to use D60 front hubs, but i have no idea. i do know they use the same bearings, but other than that i dont know how compatable they are.

    your best bet would be to weld your rear, keep your hubs in the front and run a lunchbox locker like an detroit EZ or lockrite. but this will make breaking front axles easier. BTW, what tires are you running?
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2006
  9. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    Right now stockers lol. I want to get the lift and all the bracing done and done right before I even think about tires. Probably 36's to start once i get everything done. then i need the money pool to build back up for a d60.

    It looks like for what I want to do the only option is a selectable locker. That sucks. *money swirls down the drain*
     
  10. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    If you are going to drive it on the street, a selectable locker is the way to go IMO. Detroit for the rear and you are set.
     
  11. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    that is just bad logic there. if you are running on the street, you almost always dont even have it in 4x4. why would you need a selectable locker in the front if you wont use it? selectable lockers are good for keeping your steering alive when you are actually in 4x4. unless you drive around in 4 high with the hubs locked in, or use flanges on the street, there is not much need for a high dollar selectable locker, save for the steering. and there are reasons not to get a detroit, but i wont go to that topic, especially since i have one in my 14 bolt.

    my conclusion, if you want to wheel cheap, weld it and forget it.
     
  12. cbbr

    cbbr 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Which would be great if a) my rig was trailered to the trail, b) i only went short distances to wheel or c) I didn't drive 2,000 miles, 1 way with 3-4 guys in the burb every year to go camping/wheeling.

    It may also be that some people have a specific need that a selectable locker in the front fits. Like driving 2,000 miles and then needing true 4wd. Some people may not. Hence the "IMO" or "In My Opinion" and "if you are going to drive it on the street" portions of my comment. Of course I may just not be as enlightened as you and it may really be bad logic.......
     
  13. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    let me re-phrase this...
    what does it matter if the front is welded or selectable (on the pavement) when your front hubs arent even locked in?
     
  14. MrArmyAnt

    MrArmyAnt 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I was askin...
     
  15. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    the answer is it doesnt matter. it was a rhetorical question. if your front hubs are unlocked on the street, your truck doesnt know what it has in the front end. it only matters when your hubs are engaged.
     
  16. R77K10

    R77K10 Banned

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    correct


    this would be the same if you removed your front driveshaft, etc

    like i have done on my 77 203 equipped rig(full time)

    good luck
     

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