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name that carb.....a game for you guys

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MudNurI, Apr 30, 2003.

  1. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    As some of you know- my carb is REALLY FAWKED.........I need to know what it is - so I can go get the rebuild kit- my thought is this- if I screw up the rebuild that bad it's okay- cause i'm planning on replacing the carb anyway- worst case I'll have to- best case I wont...

    here's the pics- notice in one of them- you can see the wire tie on the choke control.....works slick!


    if you can- give me all the info I'm going to have to give Napa-

    thanks guys

    Brandy


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Just make it easy on everyone and get the number stamped on the side, take that number with you to the parts store and they can give you the correct rebuild kit. Done!!!
     
  3. TxK5Blazer

    TxK5Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    just my opinion god knows i am no expert but it looks like a quadrajunk like the one i used to have what is it on ....Jason
     
  4. tmaxxer9

    tmaxxer9 1/2 ton status

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    it looks like it maybe a stock 2 barrel from a v8 350. but i ain't to sure.
     
  5. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    its a 4 barrell-
     
  6. MudNurI

    MudNurI 1/2 ton status

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    ahhhh if life was that easy I'd have done that-

    did you notice how much grim etc. is covering that carb??? I can't read a number ANYWHERE on any part of this truck....
     
  7. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Well sorry to inform you but due to the variations over the years you're going to HAVE to get that number. There are far too many q-jet rebuild kits.

    Get a can of carb spray and a toothbrush and start cleaning.

    If you're going to rebuild it, you need to pull and clean it anyways. Why stop before you even get started?



    /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  8. loudnowlouder

    loudnowlouder 1/2 ton status

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    definately a rochester quadrajet
    rochester identication
    that'll give you a start at least, the carb # should be enough at the napa store, but it doesnt hurt to have as much info as possible
     
  9. Swanson52

    Swanson52 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    If you're going to rebuild it, you need to pull and clean it anyways.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    My sentiments exactly. You'll have to pull it anyhow; go get some latex gloves and get after it! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  10. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    That is definately a Rochester Quadrajet. As everyone else has suggested, get the number so you can get the correct kit. The number will be stamped vertically, on the drivers side of the carb, close to the throttle cable bracket. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    By the looks for the black around the air horn, I would say it has been running rich for some time.
     
  11. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    You want a kit for a generic APT quadrajet without any of the electronic bullshit.

    Normally I'd send people to Edelbrock's website to ID their carb and order the appropriate kit. However, Edelbrock's hosting company blows donkeys in July. Where most ISPs aim for the "five nines" (99.999% uptime) their ISP aims for the "one nine".

    Anyway, you've got a generic APT quadrajet found in most trucks through the 80s. Cars got the electronic crap that never works right. If you choose to get an Edelbrock kit (just under $40) it'll come with everything but a float. It even comes with nice gaskets.

    APT is that knob that sticks up on the top in the front of the carb.

    You can ID the carb best by using the part number and then comparing it to Edelbrock's website. The number is on the flat surface above the secondary throttle valve shaft. You can use a small screwdriver to pick away the crust.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. fourwheelerjeff

    fourwheelerjeff 1/2 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    brandy looking at your picture, the bright spot on the left hand side, is that a tag, if so should have the carb number, should start with a 70 or 170, the number is stamped into the carb running vertical back by the four barrel on the driver's side /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. ratchetmaster

    ratchetmaster Registered Member

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    last #s on carb as visible in pic . . . 226 probably 170?226.

    Edit . . . sorry wrong pic, wrong carb. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  14. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Cars got the electronic crap that never works right.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Gotta disagree here, because I'm sure there are a few people with CCC on their trucks, and I'd hate for them to think that system was the problem.

    CCC was installed on every US GM 4 barrel carbed car from 1981-1990, and I'm sure there are millions that beg to differ that it doesn't work right. I've got an '84 CCC carb that would disagree with you. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     
  15. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    FWIW, that vac advance line may be on the wrong port. Most of the time it's connected on the drivers side of the carb, where I see a cap.

    Of course it could be different because of the year, but you may want to check that out.
     
  16. mosesburb

    mosesburb For Rent Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    From your picture, it appears as though your primary choke pull-off/linkage is missing (making your zip tie necessary). This part will not come in a rebuild kit, but with the carb number any good counter person should be able to find the one you need. The little link that hooks into it and goes to the choke linkage may be another story though. Those parts are getting harder and harder to find these days, but with a little scrounging you should be able to score one either through a dealer, wrecking yard, friend or a local shop. FWIW you have an M4ME Q-Jet, not a E4ME (ccc style). Good luck!
     
  17. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

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    I hate to say it, but those carburetors are junk. You're better off finding one that's been sitting in mud for 20 years, cleaning it, and swapping the parts over.

    Some people have great luck with them. They are a chore to tune. I can even get an APT carb to run so good that I can breathe the exhaust without getting sick. And APT is a pain in the butt.

    You'll never get the performance out of them that you'll get out of a regular APT carb or a non-APT carb. If someone chooses to put one of those infamous electronic carbs on their vehicle when they have the option to put a regular one on then there is something [​IMG] with them.

    There is a reason why you only see those carbs in the scrap aluminum bin at a salvage yard. It's because no one wants them. Heck, there's even more demand for AFBs and Rochester 2 barrels.
     
  18. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    You'll never get the performance out of them that you'll get out of a regular APT carb or a non-APT carb.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Sounds like a comment someone would make about a carb and TBI! Tell me how CCC has any effect on how much performance you can get? Better fuel mix control? Complete disregard of the CCC system at WOT? Typically larger CFM carb bodies than non CCC versions?

    [ QUOTE ]

    There is a reason why you only see those carbs in the scrap aluminum bin at a salvage yard. It's because no one wants them.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    You know the real reason? It's the same reason you can't find ECM's in the wrecking yard, and the same reason people spend $500 on new parts for injection setups trying to solve a problem. Because they can't find the time to figure out how things work. Think about how badly these carbs are disregarded outside of this forum. Then figure out why people can still run 10 seconds in the 1/4 mile on these carbs, while others say it's impossible.

    How a simple solenoid that moves needles vertically in and out of two orifices to control fuel mix during part throttle operation, and not idle nor WOT, is so much more difficult to deal with than a carb that depends on vacuum to accomplish the same thing, is beyond me.

    Performance being better than one or the other is a moot point. You can make either one work just as well as the other, as long as you spend the time tuning it, since CCC has no bearing on WOT.
     

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