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Name that Sensor / Starter cable help / Tcase brace??

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by SkysTheLimit, Mar 23, 2007.

  1. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    First is the Name that Sensor game:
    What the heck is that little sensor directly forward of the starter on a 350? It's screwed into the very bottom of the block right above the oil pan.

    What is the sensor that is directly above the oil filter on a 350? I thought oil pressure was on top behind the intake manifold on a small block and above the oil filter on a big block? I have a sensor in each location on my old small block.
    --

    Starter cable:
    Which way should I route the starter cable on a big block with headers? Obviously I'm trying to keep it away from high heat. Should I go forward hugging the block then under the accessories to the battery or go backwards, come up with the tranny dipstick and over with the HVAC stuff?

    --
    TC Brace
    How many people run the transfer case brace on a 208? The one that mounts to the side of the TC and attaches where the bellhouse and block meet. When I fit my headers, I hadn't installed it yet and it's right in the freaking way now that I have it in. I'd probably have to cut my collector back and re-weld the flange to have some room to put a couple bends in to route the exhaust.


    4... 4 questions in 1! Thanks for any light anyone can shed on this...
     
  2. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    As for the sensors, what year 350? I know the TBI trucks have a knock sensor, prolly the one you're seeing by the starter.

    TBI trucks also have oil pressure senders under the dizzy, so no clue what's by the oil filter.

    -- A
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Knock Sensor
    Oil pressure *switch*
    no idea
    Anyone that doesn't want to break bellhousings. :)
     
  4. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    Beautiful. Thanks very much for the quick responses. I didn't even think about the knock sensor. The switch makes sense as I understand that's what tells the fuel pump to work. Glad I don't have to deal with it on the new motor, its friggin huge.

    Guess I'll have to work around the brace then. :wink1:

    Now if I can find someone who's got headers on their big block and can tell me which way to route that cable, I'll be golden.

    Thanks again.
     
  5. tvonloss

    tvonloss Registered Member

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    The sensor by the filter is probably a fuel pump cutoff incase you loose oil pressure. Some years had em to save the engine incase of oil pressure loss. Only thing is I don't remember one ever doing the trick and I've replaced a lot of motors people ran out of oil...
     
  6. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    on a 350 tbi its the side sensor for the gauge and top by dist for fuel pump cut off.

    knock sensor is diffrent for each motor. so make sure you get one for your size motor. and yes this is the one infront of starter.

    headers sorry cant help ya. i like cast manifolds as thay are quieter.

    brace rod yep run one thay are there to help big time.
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Just to make sure info is straight, oil pressure switch is not a fuel cutoff. You can leave it off the engine if you want, just no backup if your fuel pump relay fails.

    http://coloradok5.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1808211&postcount=27
     
  8. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    Well crap.. now I got conflicting information...

    Which oil pressure sensor is on the side of a TBI 350 motor? Is it for the gauge or the fuel pump? I'm hoping its for the fuel pump because it's really big compared to the sensor that was up by the dizzy.
     
  9. 1-tonmudder

    1-tonmudder 1/2 ton status

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  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If this is the original '88, the gauge sender is likely a metal "bell" shape.

    The oil pressure switch (or later, although unsure when exactly it started, combination pressure switch/sender) has a black plastic body, and about 3" long. It will have two wires (or again, 3 if its a combo switch/sender) while the gauge sender has one wire, single blade sticking out of it for the connector. You apparently don't have to worry about the combo switch/sender, since you say you have one item in each location. :)
     
  11. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    That's definately the knock sensor then next to the starter. Looks exactly like the pic. Tagging along on that idea, I looked up oil pressure switch and found the two sending units I have. Looks like the big honking one on the side above the oil filter is the one for the guage and the nice compact one I wanted to use is the switch / relay. :mad:

    thanks for the link / idea.
     
  12. SkysTheLimit

    SkysTheLimit 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Dorian. Looking at the pics on PartsAmerica's website brought me to that same conclusion.

    Is there any rule that says I can't use armored conduit around my starter cable to keep it off hot things? Then I figure I can run it forward along the block and put some hangers off the oil pan bolts. That'll be a shorter run to the battery.
     
  13. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Mines run that way, just no conduit. Used stock battery cable hold downs to oil pan studs, then over to the frame, stock battery cable clamp (rubber coated) on the frame, then up to the battery.

    As to the oil pressure switch/sender...you can convert to the new one easily. That's what I did. You just get the combo switch from a later vehicle (I think say a '90 or '91 R/V truck will list it, as well as Camaro's similar vintage) and the connector. Cut off your old connectors and splice them to the new one. All three wires into the same size switch/sender, and one location. Took GM a few years to figure that out. :)

    I'd get the connector from the wrecking yard, they are usually as much as the switch/sender in the stores. I know that some FWD cars used the same switch. AFAIK, GM never changed how the gauges read, so all the switches are interchangeable. If they look the same, they are.
     

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