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Need a little input....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Hayduke, Mar 23, 2001.

  1. Hayduke

    Hayduke 1/2 ton status

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    hey there all, i need some engine input here.
    i've got a '86 with a 305 and it does burn oil. i know i need a good tune up and my EGR is clogged. there is sometimes slow accel. but all around it runs well (110K)
    would it be worth it to do a major tune-up or should i go ahead and get a rebuilt 350? not enough $$ for a crate right now but i think i have enough for a rebuild and i know i have more than enough to really go through her and give it a good "face lift"
    so what do you think? i trust you guys!
    thanks.
    peace.
    HAYDUKE

    Insured By COLT, Policy #.357M

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://haydukesk5.coloradok5.com>http://haydukesk5.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    My old 86 Blazer had a 3-Oh Crap... I would definetly think of getting a 350... then you can upgrade some things and get a ton more power. Defenitly worth the cash outlay... another thought is a 305 tpi... if you can do the wiring I know a guy who did this swap and it rocks... the minor mods he did give it a lot more grunt and he gets awsome gas milage... great idea if you aren't really throttle happy or power hungry. Also you could just let the 305 suck wind and live w/ it till you get enough for what you really want... a set of plugs and fuel filter is dirt cheap and you can take off the EGR and clean it w/ carb spray for the $2 can of spray...

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Go with a 350. How much do you think it will cost to rebuild? Reson I ask is because the last one I rebuilt cost me more then getting a crate engine.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html>http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html</A>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails[​IMG]</font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Wayne</font color=blue>
     
  4. Goose

    Goose 1/2 ton status

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    In '95 I bought a long block 350 to rebuild for $100. Had it bored and the heads gone over plus all the other 'goodies' like aluminum intake, fluiddamper harmonic balancer, cam, etc. By the time it was all done I really like it, but my Holley carb never has run perfect and it ended up costing more than a crate engine PLUS no warranty. If I did it again, I'd get a crate and then slowly modify it if I wanted a little more power.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Oh yeah... Nationwide engines have 4 bolt main 350 shortblocks w/ warr. for approx $600... long blocks (not sure what heads) go for like $800 or so. I have used them a few times and have been very happy w/ the product... also can get Vortech w/ a 3 angle valve job and gone through for the standard $400 bucks. They are on the web...
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.nationwide-engines.com/>http://www.nationwide-engines.com/</A>

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  6. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    If you know someone with a compression tester, use it. It'll tell you right away what you need. I would save up for a 350. I like'em!

    [​IMG]


    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com>http://muddin4fun.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  7. MudRebel350

    MudRebel350 1/2 ton status

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    I'd say give it a good tune up. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, air filter. Clean out the carb with valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner. That stuff gets alot fo crap out. If it still runs like crap sell it. 305's aint the greatest i had one in my first truck and it was a charm.

    JD
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Crate often is about same price as a rebuild. I sure wouldn't waste the money on a 305. Now 110k is not really horrible miles if it has been taken care of (oil changes etc).
    First thing I would check is compression and condition of the plugs. Most shop manuals like the $14 Haynes at Autozone have how to do both tests and what the compression should be. It will also have some pictures of plugs and how to tell what sort of condition your engine is probably in. If the compression comes up good your oil burn problem is probably valve guide seals and those can be replaced without pulling the engine apart and pretty cheap at $40 or less for valve cover gaskets and some suplies. That $14 book will have the instructions of how to change them without pulling the heads.
    If the compression test comes up poor then do some further testing. the compression gage I have you can remove the check valve and hook your air line to it. What you want to do is get each cyl TDC and pump some air in and see where it's comming out and how fast. If it's comming out the intake or tail pipe it's valves if comming out the breather or oil fill then you got a ring problem.
    If it's rings the only cure is a full blown rebuild. If it's valves there is a good chance you could pull the heads and as long as they are not cracked you could spend the weekend hand laping the valves and a good cleaning. Clean the EGR passages in the intake and put it all back together and you will be surpised how much better that can make a engine run. The risk here is the heads. 305 heads are prone to cracks. If the heads are good your looking $150 or so for gaskets and parts. What you have to decide is how soon till you want to replace the engine and how fast is it using the oil. If it's only using a quart every 200-400 miles and not a noticable smoke cloud it may be a live with it thing and try some of the products that are supose to condition seals. If your fogging the hood..well it's time.
    As for the tune up...well that never hurts and even if you do buy a crate you will still need the wires and distributor so it's not wasted money. The only thing I would start fresh is plugs.
    Another thing to check is slack in the timming chain. A loose chain can cause run problems that don't need to be there. It lets the valves run retarded causing power loss and poor economy. Timming chain is only $35 for a Cloyes replacement and that will cure lots of strange problems like surges and loss of power. Looking about $25 in gaskets and I would recomend dropping the pan to do the job. Got to pull the water pump to do the job so put some thought to how old it is. If you don't know the $30 for a new one is good insurance against having to replace it for a few years. It's hard to get the timming cover to reseal if you don't pull the pan. On our trucks there is plenty of room to remove the pan. another thing to check is that the mechanical advance is working smooth. if it's hanging up and not snaping back then oil and crank case vapors have coked up the shaft and a hour pulling it appart and cleaning it can do wonders.
    There are lots of little things that can cause you problems that are relativly inexpensive to repair that can go a long way towards performance. They may get you another year down the road for minimal outlay while you save for a new engine. If it improves the way the truck runs and your gas millage it's paying for the parts.


    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  9. Hayduke

    Hayduke 1/2 ton status

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    i think grim has my answer, i'm not smoking awful and i think i'll try for a good "face lift" on her and save for a crate...
    thanks,
    peace.
    HAYDUKE

    Insured By COLT, Policy #.357M

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://haydukesk5.coloradok5.com>http://haydukesk5.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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