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Need advice on gas tank skid plate removal.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Derf00, Oct 18, 2000.

  1. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    Tonight I discovered the gas tank on my '90 Jimmy is leaking. I spent some time underneath trying to figure out how to remove the skid plate. It appears that the bolts that hold on the skid plate come through the top of the cross member in front of the rear bumper. Since I have a receiver hitch I could only see the bolts on the corners. Are there are more bolts, and does the rear bumper have to be removed? That may be a dumb question, but I'd rather ask now than wish I would have asked after unbolting the bumper and hitch and finding there was an easier way. Thanks for any info.
     
  2. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    Ok I did this awhile ago and as far as I can recall there were only four bolts. The two up front one the cross memeber and the two that are on the tabs on the rear. There maybe three on the rear though cant remember. I know that you need to have the least amount of gas in the tank as possible. Remeber to remove and tuck the wiring harness out of the way also. I had to loosen the straps for the tank to get the plate off. This maybe different for you. Hope this helps.
     
  3. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

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    Oh yeah, the fuel filler hose has a wire ring clamp that is a bugger to get off and on.
     
  4. WhiteWhomper

    WhiteWhomper 1/2 ton status

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    Steve and I have both had experience in the past couple of months dropping our fuel tanks, and it really isn't too difficult. The three bolts at the front of the skidplate are easy to remove by sitting under the vehicle facing towards the rear. The rear skidplate bolts seem to be almost impossible to get to until you lower your tailgate and viola' they are straight down and easy to reach. Once the skidplate is out of the way, a floor jack and a block of wood or a buddy can help lowering (undo the strap nuts/bolts)the tank some until you can reach the filler and vent hoses to unhook. (You can also unhook them from the top, but then they hang up on the frame when lowering. A real pain trust me.) Then you can unhook the fuel lines, unhook the ground wire from the frame and then there is a connector that hooks to the wires for the fuel sending gauge and feul pump that should be right in front of the crossmember that the front of the tank hinges at. When you unhook those wires, the tank will drop right out. I suggest that you pull the tank completely out from under the vehicle because there usually is a lot of old crud on top that needs to be cleaned off before removing the pump assymbly if a full tank repair is necessary. If the leak is small, I repaired a leak on my Roadrunner tank with JB weld. I used a scotchbrite pad and lacquer thinner to clean and prep the surface and then placed the JB weld on and let sit overnight and It held for the next twoo years I owned the car. Best of luck.
     
  5. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the info, I am glad I asked. I would have felt pretty stupid if I had removed the bumper only to find that opening the tailgate would have worked. At the present time the leak is very minor, so I am hoping that the JB weld type fix will work.
     
  6. mudfanatic

    mudfanatic 1/2 ton status

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    depending on the leak, I bought a new used tank at a boneyard with the sender, for $30 just to buy the sender at the dealer costs $80
    Dan
    PS make sure your tank is low on fuel, I had a crushed foot for 8 months because I thought that mine was empty but in actuality it had 15 gallons in it.

    <font color=red>get involved with land issues or lose the land</font color=red>
     

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