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Need Advice

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Alaskan85K5, May 27, 2003.

  1. Alaskan85K5

    Alaskan85K5 Registered Member

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    Its time to replace the 305 in my blazer, which brings me to the question what should I put in it. Well really not what should I put in it but can I? I've talked to the emissions people and they said I can put a 350 in the truck because it was sold that way stock. My question is if I put a 383 Stroker in it will they know? I maybe mistaken but isn't a 383 just a 350 with a 400 crank???? How would the emissions people know its a 383 and not a standard 350? I don't want to put a 383 in there if they have some way of knowing what it is and not passing it when I need to get the IM sticker. I'm planning on buying a long block from either Napa, GM, or Schucks. I've read about everyone liking the GM, but does anyone have anything to say about a Napa or Schucks longblock???

    Also since I'm going to be replacing the engine what should I do with the tranny? The guy I bought it from replaced the 700r4 with a TH350 what if anything should I do to/with the tranny. I'd really like to have the 700r4 back because I'd like to have overdrive. If I were to do this, can you recommend where to buy a quality 700r4?

    I mostly use the truck for a daily driver, I tow a trailer with it occationally and I plan to install a 4" lift this year to do a bit more wheeling. All advice is welcome and appreciated.
     
  2. big pappa b

    big pappa b 3/4 ton status

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    The emissions people will have no way of knowing what is inside your motor. Most they can do is look at the casting numbers on the block and see that it is a 350.
    Can't help you on the transmission info
     
  3. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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  4. MousePowrd

    MousePowrd 1/2 ton status

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    Definitely go for the 383. Learn how to be a good tuner and and will pass emissions no problem.

    As far as the tranny I say get a 700R4 built with quality parts, not just any rebuild. You will need a good tranny to handle the 383. The overdrive is worth the extra cost
     
  5. Alaskan85K5

    Alaskan85K5 Registered Member

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    Thanks for all the replies, no one chimed in on buying auto parts store crate engine? Is this a big no no? I'm sure I'm getting what I pay for right? Napa has a decent warranty and is a bit cheaper than GM. I'll call around and look for a 383 from auto stores, GM and some local builders. I have a rebuildable 350 sitting in the garage but for the price to get all the machine work done I think it would be cheaper to just buy a crate/long block.
     
  6. big pappa b

    big pappa b 3/4 ton status

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    Some places will give you a good price but I'm not sure about the quality. Here is a dealer Pace motors and they have some good prices on GM crate engines
     
  7. ZooMad75

    ZooMad75 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Thanks for all the replies, no one chimed in on buying auto parts store crate engine? Is this a big no no? I'm sure I'm getting what I pay for right? Napa has a decent warranty and is a bit cheaper than GM. I'll call around and look for a 383 from auto stores, GM and some local builders. I have a rebuildable 350 sitting in the garage but for the price to get all the machine work done I think it would be cheaper to just buy a crate/long block.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Never bought an engine from a parts store, but to my knowledge, none of them sell a 383 stroker. What that means is, you can buy a 350 from Napa or whoever, but you will still end up having to pay for the machine work and parts to make it a 383. You end up replacing the crank, pistons and rods to do it right. These are parts you just bought in the rebuild that you got to pitch. You got a 350 core that would need all that anyway (stroked or not) that you could get the stroker kit and build your own 383 for less than you would have spent to buy a crate, tear it down and buy and install the stroker kit. I'm no economics wiz but I can see the difference in cost.

    Warranty? as soon as you tore into your parts store crate engine, you just voided it.

    Now the GM HT383 is an interesting alternative, provided you got the cash to buy one. The HT383 is not made in the conventional 383 fashion buy using a 400 crank in a .030 over 350 block. The HT383 uses a STOCK 4" bore 350 roller cam block and uses a specific stroke crank (slightly more than a 400, not sure of the throw) to get to the magic 383 displacement. The key here is that its all new components, not a rebuilt or remanufactured unit with questionable machine work and tolerances.

    Choice is yours, choose wisely...
     
  8. 4DiggerDan

    4DiggerDan 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Now the GM HT383 is an interesting alternative, provided you got the cash to buy one. The HT383 is not made in the conventional 383 fashion buy using a 400 crank in a .030 over 350 block. The HT383 uses a STOCK 4" bore 350 roller cam block and uses a specific stroke crank (slightly more than a 400, not sure of the throw) to get to the magic 383 displacement. The key here is that its all new components, not a rebuilt or remanufactured unit with questionable machine work and tolerances.

    Choice is yours, choose wisely...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The GM crate is a 4" bore with a 3.850" stroke. Its .100" longer than a 400-383 crank. They also use the powdered metal rods in it.

    If I was you, I'd look around in your local yellow pages under "automotive machine shops" and find a local engine builder. You should be able to get a local guy to build you a 383 for somewhere in between the cost of a Napa engine and the GM HT383. He'd also be up on what you can get away with at the local emissions extortionists.

    For the record... Napa, checker, and Schucks aren't building those engines. They usually contract them out to "production engine rebuilders" (assembly line, pay their help minumum wage machine shops.) I've had a lot of them wind up in my shop after just running 3000 miles or less. I'm sure I just see the bad examples of what they build, they can't all be built that poorly... But from what I see in the average "production" chevy engine, I don't know how those guys sleep at night. PER's all suffer from the "thats good enough" mentality.

    If you have your local custom builder do you one up, you should be happy with everything. If you let him know all the details and aren't afraid to admit your ignorant in a few departments, you should get along with the guy just fine.
     
  9. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I am running a 383, Vortec heads, LT1 cam, and MPFI in my '90 Jimmy. All the smog equipment is hooked up and functions. Whether or not it will pass a smog test, I am not sure, as our local laws don't require it yet, but I hooked it all back up, and everything functions before the swap. My only problem is the missing cat, but I did make a spot for it if necessary when the exhaust system was redone. If you look under my hood, everything looks stock unless you spot the fuel rails, as I didn't spend any money on chrome, it just looks like every other 350.

    My suggestion to you is to find a local machine shop to do the work on your block. If you have the time and know how to build your own engine, do it yourself. If not, have a local custom builder do it, you can check out his work and know what he put into the engine.
     
  10. Alaskan85K5

    Alaskan85K5 Registered Member

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    Well my money pit just got deeper, I just purchased some 3/4 ton axles. Dana 44 and 14b off a 79 3/4 Chevy, has 3.73 gears. I payed $400 for them how that was a decent deal. Now I really need a new engine, lift and 35" tires :-)
     
  11. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    www.sallee-chevrolet.com has the 383 for $3750.00 here is the part # for it 12497317 if you type it in, it will bring up the specs for it.

    rick
     

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