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need brake help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by mich89k5, Oct 30, 2000.

  1. mich89k5

    mich89k5 Registered Member

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    I need help with my braking problem. It pulls to the right big time, enough to make a right hand turn without moving the steering wheel just with the brake. This is what I have done related to fixing the problem. Please tell me what I might be overlooking. Both calipers replaced, both brake hoses replaced, all balljoints replaced, alignment, new rotors, pads, guide pins, rear seals replaced because the shoes were saturated on the left side. I really thought this was the culprit, but once again I was wrong. The left caliper actually has been replaced twice, just to verify that the reman calipers that I got at Autozone were working. No difference at all. Re-man steering box. That's about it. I have all polyurethane bushings, Rancho 9's, 4" lift, BF Mud T. Does The Prop valve affect Left/ right ever or just Front/Back. I'm hoping that this is somewhat common with Blazers, but so far 2 brake places and one dealership has failed in figuring this one out. Please help.
     
  2. backlash

    backlash 1/2 ton status

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    Yes absolutely!

    My truck for 13 years pulled very hard to the right when braking. Was told they did that ... dumb ass me just let it go. I ended up with this flexing frame problem we have been discussing. Took it into the dealer ... talked to a mechanic. "I know what the problem is"! He replaced the proportionaing valve and for the first time in 13 years. my truck stops in a straight line. Brakes are still spongy, but you cannot get pads with the materials they were designed for (no asbestes).

    Replace the proportioning valve! It should make a remarkable difference.
     
  3. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Backlash has got it. The valve can get clogged with gunk and restrict fluid going to the right side. It also detects pressure indifferences between the front and back and cause the BRAKE light to come on on your dash. The parking brake being set also sets this light. Drain the master cylinder before you change it and blled the brakes real good (starting with the left rear, then the right rear, then the right front and finally the left front). Then go back and check them all again.
     
  4. mich89k5

    mich89k5 Registered Member

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    Do you remember how much it costed? I just called a local dealership for just the prop valve and it was like $75, just wondered if you knew how much they charged for labor. Well I can tell you one thing I will for sure replace it because of your post. I wanted to a few weeks back, but everyone that I talked to was against it, saying that the prop. valve has nothing to do with the pull. But now I think that you might have the answer. Thanks.
     
  5. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    Check wheel bearing adjustment, also wheel bearing wear.
     
  6. backlash

    backlash 1/2 ton status

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    Mich,

    I'm not saying this will take care of your problem ... only the fact that I listened to others for so long concerning this that I was really against spending the money to replace it. There could be many other factors like the posts from others above.

    The proportioning valve is designed to ease fluid to the rear wheels after the front have begun to brake, thus preventing skids. For some reason mine did not work from side to side... however, a new valve fixed my problem ... no question.

    I had other work done to it while it was there ... don't remember what the labor charge was. If I had the time I'd have done it myself. Cannot be that difficult ... or any brake shop could do it with a rebuild much cheaper.

    Good Luck!
     

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