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need concrete advise for barn

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by bad_bo_ti, Jul 27, 2005.

  1. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    i got a 22x32 pole barn and am thinking of concreting the floor soon, the questions is right now my dirt floor (304 gravel) is about the same height of the outside ground ( driving in and out of the barn doors) i dont want a big concrete lip to drive up on but i dont really want to have to remove 4-5 inches of material in the whole barn, can i just dig the entrance out and slope the concrete to it or would it be better to dig the whole barn out. thanks, chris
     
  2. Kiwi John

    Kiwi John 1/2 ton status

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    Barn

    The aim is to stop rain water from running back into your nice dry barn i presume? Why not dig, say, 3 inches out of barn, concrete 6 inches of floor depth and you'll have a 3 inch lip to keeep water out all round?
    A little 3 inch ramp to the door wont be hard to make.
     
  3. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    if you ever want to put a lift in you might need more than 5-6" thick slab. just a idea for ya.
     
  4. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    forgot to add that the barn doors right now slide open to each side, so if i build a ramp outside to get in the barn there is going to have to be like a 2 in gap so the doors can move or shorten the doors. the outside already slopes away from the main door and i do have a drain in there already. i am not worried about a lift either, i am wanting to build another barn in the future and let this one be for my tractor and implements. thanks for the feedback though
     
  5. fred2mihi

    fred2mihi 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Barn Floor

    Mr. Bad, I run a mixer truck out here in Colorado. if I were you I would rent a skid steer loader remove four inches of the rock, actually you would be better off to remove all of the rock, replace it with compacted road base. Pour a three inch floor using 3500 psi concrete with fiber unless you wanted to use wire or rebar instead of fiber. That mix should have a 4000# crush strenth in thirty days. I wouldn't drive any thing on the floor for at least thirty days to give the concrete a chance cure properly. You will have a better chance of not having any ugly cracks if you wait thirty days. Good luck pouring concrete is not a fun adventure
    Fred2mihi
     
  6. Stickseler

    Stickseler 3/4 ton status

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    I'm not sure of the Base specs but I wouldnt skimp on that Ive seen too many jobs where the slab gets all FUBAR'd from people trying to save on the prep work.

    If I was doing it Id keep the floor higher than the out side but cut an area about the size of your truck at the doors and let it slope down on 3 sides so water stays out. Or you can pot a small slope about 2"-4" in about 2' from the edge by the door and put a gutter in 2' from the door with a drain at the end and 12" metal grating over the gutter, that keeps water out and lets you have a plce for the water to run to if you hose it out. Seen those in lots of service bays.
     
  7. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    the rock that is in there is 304 gravel, road base basically, some use limestone some use gravel, i think i am going to go the route with removing material, i got a tractor with a box blade i will use for most of it. how hard is pouring concrete, i have heard of alot of people doing it but have never done it. thanks chris
     
  8. fred2mihi

    fred2mihi 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Barn Floor

    Chris, unless you are experienced pouring concrete or you can find one of your friends who is, I would seriously consider hiring someone who is experienced at flat work. With a four inch floor you are going to need 9 yards of concrete and if you don't know what you are doing you can have a wreck in a hurry.

    Fred2mihi
     
  9. i8yrsuv

    i8yrsuv 1/2 ton status

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    Yes !!! Concrete waits for no man !!!! :bow:
     

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