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Need Engine building Help

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Oct 25, 2002.

    I am looking to build a engine for my 79 K5. Was woundering if you guys can help by telling me what size block I should go with a 350, 400, or a 454? Also should I just use edlebrock parts to build it up? Should I bore it out, and if so how much? I am going to use the truck for daily driving and rock crawling. I know I need more torque than horsepower. If you have built a good strong engine and it was not over $3000. Can I please get a list of parts that you used.

    Thank you guys & Gals very much
     
  1. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd seriously consitter a 383 stroker or a 415 stroker. Big blocks like a 454 are awsum, but very expencive becouse of all the other mods you'll need to do. If you already have a 400 small block, go with a 415 Stroker kit from www.worldcastings.com , if you've got a 350, go 383 stroker !!!
     
  2. I have not yet got the engine was woundering what to get. So I should get a 350 and then get a stroker kit? Someone please let me know what I need to do to make a 383 stroker engine.
     
  3. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    I'd look around for a 350, You can get the stroker kits from PAW, Summit, Jeg's, ...ect. Look into the kit first, Some kits require certin CC heads for the listed compression. I personally like 64 cc heads, but they are getting some what hard to find in a junk yard anymore. The 76 cc heads are more comman, not sure what cc the vortec heads are. You're on the right track by asking questions first.
     
  4. GMslave

    GMslave 1/2 ton status

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  5. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    Big blocks like a 454 are awsum, but very expencive becouse of all the other mods you'll need to do

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Paul,
    What mods are you referring to to install a big block, just curious. (besides maybe a bigger radiatior)

    John
     
  6. Longhorn4x4

    Longhorn4x4 Registered Member

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    If you want brute torque, don't start with a 350, start with a 400. You can bore a 400 0.030" or 0.040" over, and put a set of forged pistons in it that are made to be used with 350 rods and the 400 crank. Stroke is what really makes torque. Put a set of late model Vortec heads on it, with an Edelbrock dual plane intake made for the Vortec heads, a small carb like a QJet, or TBI, and get a nice mild hydraulic cam with about 212 degrees of duration at 0.050" tappet lift, a total lift of about 0.465", and a lobe separation angle of 110 degrees. That combination will make killer torque for off road fun and for towing. There will be no trick machine work, and no odd or radical parts, everything will be affordable and available.
     
  7. Well I just picked up a GM 400 complete engine for a really good price. I will be calling Summit racing tomorrow to get a list on what I need to make the engine that I want.
    Thank you for the info guy.
     
  8. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Well, with a torque monster, I do belive upgrades to the rest of the drivetrain would be needed. I know with a big block I'd toast the 1/2 axles and probley the transmission as well. LOL. Something about that shinny pedal and my love for that trow ya back in the seat feeling.
     
  9. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Don't rule out a stroker kit for the 400. I've never ran one myself, but a friend has the 415 stroker in a Chevy 4x4 pick up and I will say it is one wild machine. I've also heard of a stroker kit that gives you 427 cubes out of your 400 small block.
     
  10. Longhorn4x4

    Longhorn4x4 Registered Member

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    I would suggest that rather than calling Summit, you find a local machine shop that has an excellent reputation for performance work. You might pay a little more if they supply the parts, but you won't be near as likely to have problems. You should be able to build the combination I suggested above for less than $3K, with PREMIUM parts and quality machine work. It will make torque on a nearly big block level. There is zero guess work in that combination by the way, I've already built a few of them, they make plenty of power, get decent fuel mileage, and run forever. If you want a detailed list of parts, email or PM me, and I'll provide you with one.
     
  11. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    I have a 383 stroker that has almost 200,00 miles on it and no problems yet. I got the parts from Super Shops before they got disaapeared from the face of the Earth. But I believe it is the same stuff that Summitt has.
    Don't forget the 400 SB has a few dedicated parts like the oil pump shaft, flywheel and balancer because it is an externally balanced engine. The heads also have a modification that any machine shop can do as opposed to the 350 for steam holes to prevent overheating.

    John
     
  12. Longhorn4x4

    Longhorn4x4 Registered Member

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    Here is the list, as promised:

    SRP pistons 139625 or 139626, depending on the oversize you need, get the rings with the pistons. SRP is the bdget line of JE pistons.

    GM 12558060 Vortec heads, complete, you'll need two. They'll need to be drilled for the 400 steam passages. Best flowing, most affordable head you can buy.

    Edelbrock 2116 manifold, made for the Vortec heads. I suggest a nice Rochester QJet, with a fresh rebuild using Delco parts for a carb, anything between 76 and 79 should be fine.

    One set of stock rods for a 350 Chevy, 67 through 79. You need the longer 5.7" rods. To put them in, you'll need to grind the top of the rod bolts for clearance.

    ARP fasteners.134-6003 rods, 134-3601 heads, 134-5202 mains, and 534-9601 complete external engine kit, in stainless steel (this will save hours of hunting an cleaning.

    Cloyes 9-3100 Tru Roller timing set.

    Michigan 77 bearings, in the appropriate sizes (you add the size to the part number).

    Cam bearings SH290S
    Main bearings MS1038P
    Rod bearings CB663P

    Melling oil system parts M55A pump, 55S1 screen, IS55E oil pump shaft.

    Fel Pro KS2614 gasket set

    Reed cams camshaft either a single pattern with both lobes 4H 260 on 110 lobe centers, or a single pattern with both lobes TM 264 on a 110 lobe center. Call Reed Cams and ask for Dennis, he'll set you up, it'll be real close to what I suggested.

    If you have a real good machinist/engine builder, he'll know to deck the block, bore and hone with deck plates, and balance the assembly. The heads should not need anything other than inspection. You COULD get stainless valves for them, if you wanted. I use Ferrea valves.

    This won't be a 454, but it will make incredible power between 1800 and 5500 RPM, enough to make most people think there is a built 454 under the hood.

    You'll need a nice set of 1 3/4" headers, and 2 1/2" Flowmasters and dual exhausts to get the most out of this.

    Expect near 375HP and 400 ft.lbs. of torque, in a nice flat powerband you can drive, off road, or tow a two horse trailer with ease, provided the transmission and differentials are up to it. If you use the power, stock 350 or 700 automatic transmissions won't make it, and neither will stock late model 1/2 ton corp. differentials.
     

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