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need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob(UPDATE:Those that replied please read)

Discussion in '1992-Present Chevy & GMC models' started by wrath, Dec 25, 2001.

  1. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Recently purchased a 97 Tahoe 2 dr.4x4..have a couple problems and dont want to take it in until I've got it narrowed down ..especially if I can fix it myself.. any help would be greatly appreciated
    1st...it's got a clunk in the rear as you roll away from a stop or when you come to a stop..I've checked out the rear and seems to have good ujoints and everything looks tight....thinkin it might be pinion play..anyone experienced this before..

    2nd..the steering feels like it has a tight spot in it as you make a right turn the steering feels like it catches and then lets loose..it does it through the whole turn . like I said any help would be extremely appreciated...this is the wifes daily so its really important that it gets fixed specially with snow here now..just want a rough possibility of what it could be..thinkin either gear box or pump may be shot...


    70K5 350ci.350/205 "PROJECT 40"BOGGERS" It runs and its clean !!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw>http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw</a>
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by wrath on 02/21/02 08:24 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  2. 95 Silverado

    95 Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    park the vehicle on a level surface, engine off, set the parking brake, transmission in neutral(not park), see if the pinion yoke will move up and down(like the bearings are loose), if it does it is a pinion bearing problem, if not try turning the drive shaft back and forth by hand, if you get much movement(a small amount is normal) or hear a clunking noise from the rear end, the problem is inside, could be worn spider/axle gears,worn/loose cross pin, bad ring &amp; pinion or worn differential side bearings, you will have to pull the rear cover to be sure. also check the rear u-joints for any looseness. I had to replace the spider/axle gears in my '95 pick-up. I've also seen some other posts where a noise of this type was blamed on the driveshaft slip yoke, check some old posts you may find some info.

    '95 Chevy Silverado 1500
    5.7 V8-NV4500- 3.73 rears
    See My Toys: http://community.webshots.com/user/wdb172454
     
  3. Shorts

    Shorts 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    for the steering problem, have the EVO sensor checked out. its in the steering column.

    <font color=blue>Shorts</font color=blue>

    '94 K1500
     
  4. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Thanks alot guys,I'll check these things out..heard this evo sensor thingy before..can you be a little more specific on what it does ..again really appreciate the help..wrath

    70K5 350ci.350/205 "PROJECT 40"BOGGERS" It runs and its clean !!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw>http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw</a>
     
  5. Shorts

    Shorts 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    EVO = Electronic Variable Orifice

    it adjusts the tension on the wheel from readings of the speed of the truck and the position of the steering wheel....did that make any sense?? [​IMG]

    <font color=blue>Shorts</font color=blue>

    '94 K1500
     
  6. GMtrucklover

    GMtrucklover Registered Member

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    i have a 96 gmc 1500, amd i have the same clunk. I looked it up on the all data at work and it is the same with all the vehicles. It is the normal amount of clunk(sounds weird i know), Nothing you can do to fix with it. I have heard of the same problem with steering, their is a sensor on the firewall might be the the evo i am not sure but that goes with alot of vehicles. I hope that helps you out.

    74 gmc work truck
    87 k5 blazer hardcore wheeler
    90 suburban family hauler/snowmobile
    96 gmc k1500 daily driver/tow vehicle
     
  7. eman

    eman Registered Member

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Common problem, but not normal.

    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004
    Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke )
    1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC Extended Cab Short Box Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    with 4L60-E (RPO M30) or 4L80-E (RPO MT1) Automatic Transmission and Automatic 4WD (RPO NP8)

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

    Cause
    A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the drive shaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

    Correction
    Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel plated slip yoke, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or 12477704 (2500 Series). Follow the service procedure below.

    Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information (SI2000 Document ID # 349918).
    Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.

    Important
    Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.


    Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.
    Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.
    Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the drive shaft out of the transfer case.

    Notice
    Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.


    Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.

    Important
    Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.


    Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
    If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.


    Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.


    Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
    If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
    Rotate the propeller shaft . Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.
    Remove and discard the slip yoke and universal joint.
    Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
    Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
    Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
    Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint, P/N 12477702 (1500 Series) or P/N 12477704 (2500 Series).
    Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.


    Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
    Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.


    With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
    Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
    Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
    Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.

    Important
    If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup


    Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
    Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
    Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.


    If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
    It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.
    Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.
    Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.
    Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten
    Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N·m(19 lb ft).

    Lower the vehicle.
    Parts Information
    Part Number
    Description
    Qty

    12477702
    Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (w/Ujt) (Nickel Plated) (1500 Series)
    1

    12477704
    Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (w/Ujt) (Nickel Plated) (2500 Series)
    1


    Parts are expected to be available from GMSPO October 15, 2001.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation
    Description
    Labor Time

    F0060
    Slip Joint, Propeller Shaft - Replace
    0.6 hr




    GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do the job properly and safely. If a condition is discribed, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information. WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


    undefined


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  8. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Holy Sheet,thanks eman..

    70K5 350ci.350/205 "PROJECT 40"BOGGERS" It runs and its clean !!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw>http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw</a>
     
  9. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    1st...the clunk is the output yoke binding when you brake and unbinding when you give it the gas. Fix for that is to grease the splines on the output yoke. This is only a temporary fix as Chevy has only recently figured out what to do on this. Had a 97 Tahoe that did it for 147,000 miles until we traded it in. I have a 2001 Z71 that started doing it last Nov. Chevy has a fix for this and from what I understand, it involves nickel plating the output yoke spline area. New part not yet released. Still waiting on it.

    2nd...your model has what is known as speed sensitive steering. There are sensors in the steering wheel that adds artifical feel to the steering as speed increases. The same 97 had a sensor go out on it and the symptoms were the same as you described. Acted like it didn't want to steer then all of the sudden too much steering input. Cost me $150 to have it repaired.
     
  10. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    eman:
    That bullitin is for 99 and up.
    I might add, you should think twice about printing or duplication of G.M. bullitins.
    As it says in the disclaimer!

    I have been on the receiveing end of someone getting a "G.M. bullitin" and ASSUMEING it applies to their truck. It can cause ALOT of trouble and wasted time on both ends, for the customer and service tech.

    The bullitin might applie and it might not.

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  11. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    The "clunk" most likely is the out-put shaft, like the others have said. Grease the shaft with a thick wheel-bearing type of grease. (G.M. has a speicial grease for this, but it's $30-40 a tube and is only tempary) I think W.B. grease would be O.K. as long as the transfer case is not an Auto-trac. (not avalible on '97s, if I remember right.)

    The nickle-plated slip-yoke is for '99 and up silverado styles. I don't know if it is interchangable. The new-body styles have a different drive-shaft that -might- use a different U-joint. The slip-yoke/spline should be the same. (It is on national back-order)

    The steering problem is probably the EVO steering in-put sensor.

    The other guys really nailed this. Impresive!

    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  12. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    So greasing it is the fix or do I need a new slipyoke?you guys have all been a great help, I really appreciate the help.Am printing all this out ..thanks again

    70K5 350ci.350/205 "PROJECT 40"BOGGERS" It runs and its clean !!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw>http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw</a>
     
  13. eman

    eman Registered Member

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Hmmmm, I made sure the disclaimer was first. It states it is for 99. The 4l60e is the same. What is the problem? The problem is that GM had had this same issue for almost a decade, but have tried not to fix it, and the delers deny that there is ANY problem. They try "special greases" and now plating on the shaft as potential solutions. He deserves to have all the info.
     
  14. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    eman: "What is the problem?"
    - A '99 is not a '97, they are different.
    - A 4L60E is not a Transfer-case, the rear out-put shaft is on the Tranfer-case, not the transmission. The transfer case changed with the body change (auto-trac), so did the drive-line, U-joints, ect.... (I'm not sure if the yokes are interchangable)

    How does someone "try not to fix it" ? G.M. has attempted to repair this condition, as they do with most of the reocuring problems in all it's products. Thats just good business practices. Thats why they publish bullitins, up-dates, special procedures, tranning coureses, on-sight engineers, and up-dated replacement parts. As-well as running changes in a production line. The last thing G.M. wants is a un-happy customer.

    Dealers (service techs) can only do as much as there is avalible. Sometimes, there is nothing they can do. Sometimes, it's a normal operation. Sometimes, it's a known concern without a current repair procedure (See 6.0 knock, on this forum). Sometimes there is a "known" fix. Sometimes, the service techs make their own repair. I find it hard to belive anyone is denying anything....

    Yes, everyone deserves to know as much information as is avalible. AS LONG AS IT APPLIES AND IS PRESENTED ACCURATELY.


    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Eric
    <font color=white>.</font color=white>Twizted
     
  15. eman

    eman Registered Member

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    eman: "What is the problem?"
    - A '99 is not a '97, they are different.
    - A 4L60E is not a Transfer-case, the rear out-put shaft is on the Tranfer-case, not the transmission. The transfer case changed with the body change (auto-trac), so did the drive-line, U-joints, ect.... (I'm not sure if the yokes are interchangable)

    Spoken like a tech. I printed the entire TSB. Show me where I changed it.

    I believe Autotrack came in sometime in 98, I have one in my 99 oldbody style. The 4l60e is the trans, NSSherlock, same trans, same autolock transfer case, same corporate rear diff. Are the yokes different? I have no idea, never claimed otherwise.

    GM's problem is that they refuse to honor a known problem until NHTSA kicks them in the butt. The clunking yoke is a known problem, just try and get GM to fix it for the old bodystyle truck. Tough luck!

    Same with the battery problem, the leaking vortec intake manifold, the 4l60e planetary self-destruct, the headlight switch, the headlight adjusters (never seen a single one that worked), the pinion seal leak, the coolant pressure cap leak, the $#^% worthless bimetal front disks, and the rear drum adjusters (never seen one of those work either).

    My family is from Detroit and are most engineers, so all we own are GM. So, you can skip the BS about how good the stuff is and how they take care of the customer.
     
  16. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob (UPDATE:Guys that replied, READ)

    Alright Guys ...No Fighting.....UPDATE!!!
    eman I replyed to you cuz its kinda funny you mention the intake leak...kinda funny ...KINDA COSTLY !!
    so anyways ..as of last week I hadnt gotten it fixed yet.Last weekend we take off for Illinois for a roadbike and '70k5 parts from some guys from 67-72chevytrucks.com ( got to meet 5 guys all in one place so it was great and got some real killer deals too)ok ..so the day I head home the Tahoe springs a rear intake leak on me..was able to make it home tho..
    alright ..so to make a long story even longer..got the Tahoe into the garage/dealership Tuesday and you guys hit the nail on the head with the EVO sensor ..he said it was acting like power steering pump was bad but would change the EVO sensor cuz it was cheaper..he did ask if I was a mechanic over the phone cuz I was telling him what to check out over the phone..I said nope I'm not a mechanic but had alot of help from a great bunch of guys at Coloradok5.com..ok so the intake and evo cost me over 600 bucks to fix...............
    clunk in the rear end...they checked it out and said its my carrier...has about 1/4 inch of slop in it ..ring and pinion gears are ok but I need new carrier and then bearings for the change blah blah blah ..thatll cost me over 900 bucks..
    well ,I didnt get that fixed..no way I'm paying that much to a dealership so I'll get a second opinion on that and either get it fixed or maybe start looking for another axle same year same gear to swap into it my self..I can do that myself for much cheaper.. sorry this turned out so long but the moral of the story is I really appreciate the help from you guys narrowing the problems down and I know you guys can't be right all the time not being able to actually test drive everyones problems but you sure did come thru for me and I appreciate it immensely..again,what a awesome group of people we have here!!

    70K5 350ci.350/205 "PROJECT 40"BOGGERS" It runs and its clean !!
    &lt;a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw&gt;http://communities.msn.com/OurMudToys/the70k5blazer.msnw&lt;/a&gt;
    <P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by wrath on 02/21/02 08:21 AM.</FONT></P>
     
  17. fad2blk99

    fad2blk99 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Intake leak???
    Whats up with that? I've never heard anything about an intake leak plaguing these trucks. Maybee that's what's sucking up my gas mileage. My '97 Ext. cab 2wd is only getting 14mpg (see post).

    <font color=black> -Tommy
    <font color=red>"To secure peace is to prepare for war..."
     
  18. eman

    eman Registered Member

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    The passenger side intake manifold leaks coolant because they assembled it using the wrong torque values. Look for coolant under the engine on the passenger side (9/10 times).

    I have seen this leak on ALL the vortec 350's I've seen and a couple of the 454's. My 99 leaks worse than the 96, classic GM quality control.

    Gasket available from Jegs for 1/4 of retail.

    Check the plugs first. If it is that bad to kill your mileage, you will see burn coolant on the insulator. I would suspect tune up and tire pressure first.
     
  19. wrath

    wrath 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    Ok Guys...here we go again..I hope you all come back to this thread out of curiousity...back up a few replys and you'll see that the dealership I took it to for the evo and rear intake leak that cost me over 600 bucks also wanted 900 bucks to fix that rear clunk saying it was the rear carrier..NEWS FLASH!!!!
    Just got a call from the local Auto Repair shop..guys that I've dealt with in the past and a reputable shop here in town.My '97 Tahoe is there getting that second opinion and if it needed the rear carrier at least it would be cheaper then the dealership fixing it...
    Well,guess what the final bill was.... $37.31....WTF....
    I don't know the whole jist of it yet but he told me it's in the slip yoke (you guys have out shined once again)..but he did say there's nothing that can be done but he printed out the GM Bulletin for me and I guess it tells me what to do to fix(temporary)when it gets sloppy again..I'll learn alot more about this whole scenario later today when I pick it up..but he did say it definitely ain't in the rear end..
    I'm gonna end here cuz there's smoke coming out of my ears and I may start blasting obscenities..$900+ vs. $37.31 .hmmm
    I'll certainly be making a nasty phone call tomorrow..
    I really want to thank you Guys for the help..thats the reason I wanted to get a second opinion..(Damn Glad I Did)..you guys were a huge success in pinpointing these probs out for me..thanks so much..I'll repost when I learn more this afternoon..
    Later
    wrath
     
  20. lt1yj

    lt1yj 1/2 ton status

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    Re: need help/97 tahoe drivetrain prob

    I've been fighting the clunk for the 5 years I've owned my 2dr Chevy Blazer fullsize. It seems to be worse the shorter the wheel base.

    Anyway, talked to the dealer about it today and they've released a new oil with a special additive package that is supposed to minimize the clunk. It's blue so you can tell it apart from ATF at a glance. Might want to ask your dealer for more info on it.

    Greasing the shaft only works for a few months. My new slip yoke lasted about a year and a half before the clunk came back.

    I've almost decided to put a short shaft kit in and put the slip shaft in the drive shaft. Everytime I climb under it I swear I'll never do it again.
     

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