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Need help and advice with maintenance.....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by AJMBLAZER, Sep 19, 2000.

  1. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    Location:
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    Okay guys, need your expert wisdom. It's time to do some maintenance on the Blazer. My dad did some of it when it needed it, ignored some more. I just changed the oil and filter, and rotated the tires. Well, it's kinda catching up with me, so I want to fix all of it. I just got some money, so I am going to do it all right. Keep in mind that I am still not planning on keeping this engine and tranny forever (out for a BB & 4L80e eventually), so nothing super special, but still I don't skimp on my truck. I need your tips, tricks, brands you like, brands you hate, advice, and the like. I'm a beginner mechanic, but I think with the help of my buddy, I can do a lot of it.
    Okay, here goes:

    Replace tranny fluid and filter (tranny does have an OEM tranny cooler-thanks dad) - any favorite fluids/brand filter?

    Replace fluid in both diffs, along with the special additive for the Eaton in the rear - any favorite brands?

    Replace transfer case fluid - brands?

    Replace the oxygen sensor - should I get a Bosch one, or just an AC Delco?

    Crank down the torsions a little - do I need to have it aligned if I only put it down no more than an inch?

    Lube the chassis - where and what kind of grease?

    Replace the temperature gauge sender - how do you do this on a 93 TBI 350?

    Fuel filter - had it replaced about 30,000 ago, should I have it done again?

    Service Axles - what else do you do to the axles other than the diff fluid?

    Do I need to change my power steering or brake fluid?

    Replace the gas gauge sender - how do you do this, mine is WAY off?

    Inspect the brakes

    What the hell is the "Electronic Vacuum Regulater Valve"? - the owner's manual recommends checking on it, but I don't even know what the hell it is.

    That's all that I can think of for now. I will do most of the easy stuff, but luckily I have a garage down the street that I trust to do good work on my truck at a good price. Any help would be appreciated, specifically tips and tricks to make parts easier, and brands of stuff to use. Thanks guys, you are always full of good answers and help. [​IMG]

    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Gibson, K&N, 3" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's [​IMG]
     
  2. Blazer79

    Blazer79 1/2 ton status

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    I don't know much about brands, but I can comment on a few things:

    1) be more carful what kind of oil you put in your transfer case than what brand. That could be more harmful. I know my NP203 uses 10w30 engine oil, but there are others that use ATF. Make sure you use the right grade.

    2) Add U joints to your list. You should check your U-joints for play. My Blazer has 7 U joints, and all of them needed replacement (That was after 20 years, of course). I never checked until it was too late.

    3) What about the air filter? Replace it, it's cheap, unless you have a K&N which should be washed and re-oiled every 50,000 miles and never blown with compressed air.

    4) Replace the gas filter too, it's cheap, so why wait? You'll lose power if it gets clogged.

    5) For the axles, lift one tire and try to move it (like a nodding and sideways movement) to see if there is any play. If so, you'll need to replace the bearings.

    6) Don't mess with the brake fluid. You'd have to bleed all the system if air gets in it.

    7) How about replacing the cap & rotor in the distributor? Spark plug wires? Spark plugs? If any of these components is old or damaged, you'll lose power and have a hard time during cold starts.

    8) Have a shop align your Blazer. I've heard that in the US it's cheaper to align a front axle than IFS, so why not? In the process, they can tell you if you need new tie-rod ends & ball joints.

    9) Lubricate hood, door and tailgate hinges & latches. I've used WD40 (generously) for this and no problems at all.

    Good luck. Hope this helps.

    <font color=blue>//////
    http://blazer79.coloradok5.com
    </font color=blue>[​IMG]
     
  3. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    Blazer79, thanks man.
    I will check the U-joints, never thought about them.

    I run a K&N in a special air intake, I cleaned it less than 1,000 miles ago.

    Spark plugs have like 3,000 miles on them, and the wires are MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor wires with the same amount of mileage.

    The guys at the shop say the rotor and cap are good. I believe them because I had asked them to replace them, and he said they didn't need it. Turned down my money, so I'd say they are good.

    Didn't think about the latches, do that soon. Thanks.

    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Gibson, K&N, 3" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's [​IMG]
     
  4. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Location:
    Temp. Ft. Walton Beach Fl. home=Tucson, Az.
    If you have the Eaton Unit, and its the Gov-Lock, it is designed for GM buy Eaton, to not need any specical additive
    (Friction Modifier). Save your money for some beer...........
     

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