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need help on what year my engine is...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by solowookie, Aug 31, 2001.

  1. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    OK guys, there is the probem... (I don't know the terms so bear with me here)

    anyway I have a 350 that I working on rebuilding is as follows; it has a drivers side dip stick, and there is a problem with the oil pan... (this is out of an 89, but I think the engine and components come from a much ealier generation)

    where you attatch the oil pump, there is a seal that goes on the crank shaft there. the one that came out of my engine has a half seal there, and then there is a place on top there where the gasket goes for the oil pan...

    now, on the new block there is the place the oil pump bolts up to, but then there is a peice on the rear at bolts up with the seal, and have the the accomodations for the gasket for the oil pan...

    I need the piece that bolts up and hold that rear seal... I am also going to need a new oil pan (that will also accomdate a dip stick in the pan, and not part of the block)...

    I am wondering what year my new block is???

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  2. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Sounds like you have the '86 and newer type block. They use a one-piece rear main seal that presses into an aluminum adapter that bolts to the rear of the block. It looks like a bigger version of the wheel bearing seal. The crankshaft snout is also larger and has a different bolt pattern, so if your old engine had the 2-piece seal, you'll also need a different flywheel or flexplate to bolt up to it. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    If you have a i piece rear main seal ( thats the seal on the crank) you need a pan from an 87 and up 350. If its a two piece rear main seal the you need one from 85 and older. Stay away from the 86 because it was the half year and some had one piece and some had two piece. My 86 had a two piece, but my buddies has a one piece and his is an 86 also.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  4. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    was I crazy of did you say I will need a new fly wheel???

    I already got a pan off an 89 350 from a truck... checked the fit, and it seems ok... the shop that I got the short block from is also sending me that rear piece that holds the seal... gotta order a dip stick, and looks like a fly wheel too.

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  5. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    You do need a new flywheel (or flexplate if its an automatic). The old style will no bolt up to the new style block. Also make sure it has the same amount of teeth on it for the starter. If it doesnt then you will ned a new starter as well.

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  6. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Yeah, the bolt pattern on the back of the crank changed too...

    Good luck Jeff!

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
     
  7. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Yep, that's what I said. [​IMG] If the old engine had a 2-piece rear main seal and the new engine has a 1-piece rear main seal, then the rear snout of the crank is totally different. [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
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  8. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    yea, well so much for my going a day on this project without a major hang up... right now I kinda want to string somebody up by their... (you get the picture)

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  9. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    OK, now do the rear of the crank bolt directly to the flex plate (automatic), or is there another peice that is suppose to be on there besides the plate that houses the seal???

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  10. 78Jimmyish

    78Jimmyish 1/2 ton status

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    Ugh..so like, how many mirrors have you broken in the last month, man?
     
  11. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    That's all there is. Install the seal housing and seal, then you can bolt on the (correct) flex plate.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
    It's a great day to be alive...
     
  12. solowookie

    solowookie 1/2 ton status

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    the company that put my short block together has the plate they are sending me for the solid rear seal on the crank...

    I called summit &amp; order a flex plate with the priming tool that goes in the distributor hole...

    summit sent me a 168 count flex plate, and I counted the one that came off the other engine, and it is 168 also; my starter should work with the new one...

    anyway I gave up a couple hours early today. I could have gotten this assembled quicker (minus the oil pan), but I've been taking a lot of time today to clean up parts and paint them. besides I have until tuesday when my other parts arive that will allow me to finish everything...

    anyway I am painting this orange, and I will probably leave the short block part black like it is now... got the oil pan clean (the new one I got for 20 bucks, and not the old one that came from the WRONG short block... [​IMG] got the oil pan, valve covers, and intake all painted orange... tomorrow I'll probably put the new intake on, valve covers, and paint the heads orange. then the engine will be completely painted.

    over the rest of the weekend I will clean up the engine compartment, and assemble everything except the harness etc. I wanna get the oil pan on &amp; prime the thing before I pull all the wiring stuff on...

    <font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff</a>
     
  13. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    If your heads came from an 87-95 block too, you're going to need a different intake or heavily modify the bolt holes in your old one!

    My friend has an '86 K10 SWB with a 305--it has the 1 piece rear main seal.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     

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