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NEED HELP REALLY FAST...

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by fortcollinsram, Jan 20, 2002.

  1. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    Okay gang...I am in a real bind...I have to back up to school tomorrow but as of now i have no truck... Can somebody walk me through, step-by-step, removing my front hub/rotor assembly...My rotor is loose and I need to fix it right quick [​IMG] I have the locknut socket (the one that has the 4-internal prongs) What else do I need...I really need some help here so bear with me...I thank you ALL very much for any help you can provide...

    Chris

    Was that a speed bump? No, just a Rice Rocket </font color=red> <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/fortcollinsram>My 87 Blazer</a>
     
  2. primerk5

    primerk5 1/2 ton status

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    ok i dont know if your going to get this in time or not but oh well depending if you have lock outs or not you will have a small ring around the edge of the hub that holds the lock out mechanism in place and you may or maynot have a clip in the center of the mechanism attached to the axel. after you have removed that you will have your first axel nut use your four prong socked to remove that then you have a type of spacer that helps to keep the nuts from turing back remove that and tigten you hub. then you have to put the spacer back on being careful that the spacer is alinged with the pin on the axel nut you last tightend this is a pain but you need to have it right so it dosent lossen. oh ya if you dont know how tight to make the hub, tighten till the wheel spins a little hard then back off untill the wheel spins free. and dosent move back and forth. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING MAKESURE YOUR BALL JOINTS ARENT WARN OUT THIS WILL CAUSE IT TO MOVE ALSO
    hope i could help

    PRIMERK5
     
  3. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Snap ring pliers for the hub. When you get the face plate off the hub, I use eyeglass screwdrivers to remove the snapring around the outer part of the inner hub. Thats all I can help you with though. Sorry

    My Chevy isn't broken, its just out of gas.
     
  4. Burbinator

    Burbinator 1/2 ton status

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    OK...

    1) Remove the hub assembly. Take out the Allen screws and remove the cap. There is a large snap ring on the outer portion and one on the shaft. Remove the inner portion of the hub.

    2) Next, you should see the locking nut with the four cutouts. Remove the snap ring and washer on the axle shaft (right next to the lock nut). Remove the lock nut with the four prong socket to reveal another washer with holes in it. This washer locks the inner lock nut via a "nipple" that fits into one of the holes on the washer and is "keyed" to only go on one way. Line these up so that the nipple is in one of the holes when you reassemble. Now remove the caliper and tie it off with a coat hanger or the like. Next, remove the inner locknut. The rotor should now come off.

    3) I explained it this far because another "looseness" problem can also be the bolts that hold the spindle onto the backing plate. Check to make sure they're tight. Inspect the bearings in the rotor and give them a good packing of grease, if needed. Reassembly is the reverse. Also check your ball joints for play.

    4) Torque the inner locknut to 50 ft/lbs, spin the tire, retorque, spin again until the torque reading stays constant. Be sure to install the inner locknut with the nipple facing out. You may need to loosen the inner to match the nipple to a hole in the washer. Torque the outer lock nut to 80 ft/lbs.

    I'm pretty sure those are the correct torque specs...someone correct me if I'm wrong.

    Good luck!

    Haze gray and underway...<font color=blue>or blue, in my case.</font color=blue>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/album/26246038MbQsYWKcbo>U.S.S. Nimitz II</a>
     
  5. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    Like I said before, the inner nut preloads the bearings so tighten it enuff to let the rotor spin. You shouldn't have it spin completely free. I usually tighten mine enuff to let it spin about a half of a revolution after a good shove. Some one else will give you the correct way to do it hopefully. Put your pin washer on there and crank the hell out of the outer nut. I heard someone here say over 100ftlbs. of torque, so really crank. Good luck, keep us informed.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  6. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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  7. fortcollinsram

    fortcollinsram 1/2 ton status

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    OKay gang...thanks soooooooo much for you help...I got the rotor/hub assembly off but it appears that my rotor looseness problem is from the lug bolts that hold the rotor to the hub...a couple of them were kinda loose...How much would it cost to have these pressed back in all the way? Also, vbecause the rotor was loose on the lug bolts what are the chances that the rotor bolt holes are jacked up? Does this require a new rotor...? Thanks so much again...

    Chris

    Was that a speed bump? No, just a Rice Rocket </font color=red> <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/fortcollinsram>My 87 Blazer</a>
     

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