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Need help with 10 bolt front

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by MudFrog, Nov 5, 2001.

  1. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    Ok ya'll... I'm trying to get my 10 bolt apart so I can install new wheel joints. This is a 3/4 ton even though it shouldn't matter. Anyway I went out and got the little wheel bearing lock nut removal tool thingy. It's the socket looking thing with the 4 prongs. Well I got the lock nut out and now there is a round flat nut looking thing with tiny holes all the way around. How do I get this out? I tried using a hammer and a screwdriver in the holes but it wouldn't budge. I know it will be something simple but I can't figure it out.

    89 K5 Silverado, 4", 33's, 3/4 ton axles
    <a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  2. 79Jimmy

    79Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Dont hammer on it!!!!! Its the lock ring. It simply slides strait on and off and is kept from spinning by a raised portion on the inside diameter which sits in a keyway cut into the threads on the spindle. The numberous holes are ment to recieve a very small pin on the inner spindle nut just behind it. I use a small hook and pick tool to slide it out. Hope that helps.

    James

    79jimmy@home.com
     
  3. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    I'll have to try that but I swear I thought I tried pulling it forward. And don't worry... I didn't hammer hard [​IMG] I figured it wasn't supposed to be. Thanks!

    89 K5 Silverado, 4", 33's, 3/4 ton axles
    <a target="_blank" href=http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com>http://mudfrog.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  4. gator1959

    gator1959 Registered Member

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    that is the lock ring and spacer,it keeps the nut (the next one you will get to) which holds and sets the wheel bearings, from backing off.when you set your wheel bearings,then back the nut off ,you replace the washer and the outer nut keeps everything locked where you set it so you don't over tighten your wheel bearings. you need to work the part out slowly and evenly w/a pick set or 2 narrow flat screwdrivers, then you will see why the socket tool you bought has 2 tools in 1.

    '79 K-5,D-44HD(8-bolt),14 bolt(FF),4.09 ratio,427 rat,auto,38" rubber,currently taking body off frame
     
  5. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    got any snap ring pliers ?
    They work great !
    Good luck
     
  6. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    You may have also noticed a groove in the spindle. This lock ring locks the inside nut in place by having a small pin on it "lock" into one of those holes. But, that alone wouldn't keep the nut from spinning with the lock ring. The ring also has a "tab" that sits in the groove on the spindle. That is what keeps the lock ring from spinning.

    Yours may be resistance because it may have built up some gunk or suction from the grease between it and the nut. Or, the nut may have moved slightly wedging the lock ring's tab against the side of the slot. I found the best tool for removing this is either a nice set of needle nose pliers or two small fingers. Slide it out straight and it should come off pretty easy. If it gets "whomperjawed", it will not come out.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     
  7. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Does the ring with the holes in it move at all? If it will move, I have had good luck with two short wooden dowels. I put grease on the end of them and "stick" them to the washer (180 degrees from each other) and slowly and evenly pull back toward me. If the washer is jammed for any reason, this method will not work. Then you may have to resort to picks. I have a few dentists picks (comes in hand for various tasks) and since the ends are curved, thin, and pointy, I can usually dig into the holes and pull the washer out if they are stubborn.

    See my rig at <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Leadfoot> click here </a>
     

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