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Need help with a brake problem

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MJF, Nov 24, 2002.

  1. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    After swapping in 3/4 ton axles, I still can't get my brakes to work. Through all my trials I have: swapped out the master cylinder(new), proportionong valve, & booster with stuff for the 3/4 ton truck I got the axles from.

    I know there's no leaks in the system, but I can't get them to bleed correctly. I get good pedal while I am bleeding them, but as soon as I start it up it goes to the floor. The other thing that is happening is: After pumping up the brakes & bleeding them, I open the top of the master cylinder & fluid shoots out on the half thet goes to the front brakes. Is that part of the problem? If so, what causes it?

    My next step is to replace the wheel cyl's & calipers so that everything is new. I don't think that's gonna solve my problem, but at least everything will be new.
     
  2. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    ttt /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  3. MudFrog

    MudFrog 1/2 ton status

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    I had a similar problem with mine but I also installed rear disc brakes. Then again I was having the same problem you are before I swapped to rear disc brakes. The issue was with my PV. I ended up gutting it and my pedal came back extremely fast. Just a thought, then again you said you replaced yours.
     
  4. doctor4x4

    doctor4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I only had this happen to me 1 time so here it goes might be wrong but what to hell right ???
    you perhaps "hyperextended the brake lines up front "
    closing or severally narrowing the passage that the brake fluid passes through hope it helps let me know if that what it turns out to be
     
  5. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Are you getting good flow out the rear bleeders when you are bleeding it? I had a hard time even getting fluid to the rear. I bled the rear line at each joint starting at the prop. valve and it finally got fluid to the rear.
     
  6. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    I'm gettimg good pressure all around. The front will squirt 3 feet when you open it. The rear has good pressure also.

    Someone said something about gutting the PV. What exactly is meant by gutting it? How do you do this?

    I'm getting pretty desperate here & I want to finally drive my truck.
     
  7. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    When bleeding your breaks; you are starting at the right rear, then left rear, then right front, finished at left front. Having someone pump up the pedal and hold it down while you bleed it.
     
  8. MJF

    MJF 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, I do it in the correct order. I'm thinking my Prop Valve is bad. There was some water in the system so maybe it rusted inside.
     
  9. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Did you use a air hose to blow the system out ??? Water will couse all kinds of wierd problems.
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Try burping the PV. I had air trapped in mine and My ten year old pump the peddle till she swore her leg was going to fall off an I had clear bubble free fluid at the wheels.
    Loosen the inlet lines into the PV about 2 turns and let it leak. Tap the PV with a wrench to shake the bubbles out. The Master will gavity bleed so no air will get in the line from it. The PV should not suck air into it because the lines your losening are on top. Tapping will hopefully dislodge the air trapped in the PV and let it purge. Let it leak for a couple minutes and tighten them back up and give it a try. If it was air stuck in the PV then you should not need to bleed again since the lines were clear from the PV to the wheels. Worked for me this past weekend.
     
  11. slider

    slider 1/2 ton status

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    Anytime you get a geyser effect out of the master cylinder it shows the system has air in it. I have had to let these systems gravity bleed the vacuum bleed and top it off with a final regular bleed. If your rear service brakes are out of adjustment it will give you a low peddle. Adjust the service brakes (rear drum brakes) then the parking brake last. If your peddle is still low and mushy the system still has air. Bleed the combination valve fittings, Have someone apply slight pressure on the peddle and crack the fittings one at a time to the rears. Then bleed the rear wheel cylinders again.
     

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