Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

need help with engine removal

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by blzn1, Jun 12, 2002.

  1. blzn1

    blzn1 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Posts:
    76
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SO-CAL
    here is what happened. I was driveing on the freeway and my engine lost power and I pulled over to check it out and I could not restart my blazer. I had to pull it to my house where it sat for a few days. I tried to start it again and it wont budge I took the starter out and checked it no prob so I am now pulling the engine wich leads me to my question. I have disconnected everything but the third nut/bolt on the torque converter. Typically you would rotate the engine to undo all three but remember my engine wont move. what can I do!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  2. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2000
    Posts:
    1,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sioux City, IA, USA
    Hmmmmmmmmmm.... This sounds like a tough one. Well take EVERYTHING out of the way, radiator and A/C thingy too. I I say that because we don't want to have any accidents and you're gonna need all the room you can get. Swing your engine puller over there and hook on somewhere on the front of the motor, heads, intake bolts, etc. Put a few bolts in the tranny so it will come up too. Yank the hoist up all the way you can until the transmission bumps the firewall. Now whatever way you can, take the motor mounts off the block. Stick a jack under the tranny pan to keep it up. Change your chain to something safer than both ends up front because you wont have any balance. I'm not sure if your bell housing will support the motor if you take the chain off. Have a floor jack or something under the pan for a little support. You may even want to remove the heads for more space and less weight. Jack the motor up a little again with the hoist so the torque convertor isn't binding on the input shaft. Now pull back. It may take some kicking and prying to get a clean pull. I have never done this, but its the only thing that I think will work. You'll have your motor out along with a big mess of tranny fluid from the convertor still on the flexplate, but hopefully you can get it out.
     
  3. blzn1

    blzn1 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Posts:
    76
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SO-CAL
    thanks for the quick response I'll will give that a try
     
  4. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2001
    Posts:
    4,579
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Dade City, Florida
    Support the tranny like you would normally do when pulling an engine, then pull the motor as usual, taking the converter w/ the flexplate. I would put the other 2 bolts back in the converter personally. It will just make it so there is little chance of the converter binding from being able to move unevenly. The converter will just slide out of the tranny. No big deal.

    Just make sure you get the converter fully engaged back in the tranny before reassembly, or you can mess up the pump.

    Engine and tranny will come out together if you choose to go that way. Just take the Tcase off the trans to make it that much shorter. If you grab the motor as close to the intake as you can there shouldnt be any need to reposition the chain. Grab it front to back across the motor, and stagger eng. hoist chain to the rear some to try to keep it sorta level.
     
  5. FL84K5

    FL84K5 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2001
    Posts:
    936
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Sarasota, FL
    Some dynamite will take care of that sucker!
     
  6. jberg62

    jberg62 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 7, 2001
    Posts:
    104
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Island,NY
    O.K. first of all what I don't understand is why you just gave up so quickly on trying to find out why it didn't restart
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    I took the starter out and checked it no prob so I am now pulling the engine

    [/ QUOTE ]
    No offense here but that would be like me saying I turned the radio on and didn't like the station so now I'm pulling the engine /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
    The first thing I would've checked if the starter was trying to turn over my motor with no success woulda been to make sure it was getting fuel and I hadn't run out mysteriously some how.
    Second would be to see if the engine is getting spark.
    Sounds like it coulda been a faulty coil or module maybe.
    Is the motor that bad that you're in such a hurry to get rid of it?
    I hate to sound like I'm bashing you here 'cause I'm not; I'm just curious as to why you're in such a hurry to yank your engine before further troubleshooting or less costly parts replacement.
    Cheerio...happy pulling /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
     
  7. blzn1

    blzn1 Registered Member

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2002
    Posts:
    76
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    SO-CAL
    my first post was very abreviated sorry for the confusion, but I did check all the less expensive remedies with no luck + it had a wicked knock to start with so I knew is bound to go.

    thanks
     
  8. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    I think I'd try running 2 batteries in series to bump that starter over.
    Just hook the + of one bat. to the - of the other bat. and the 2 other terminals to the starter. If that didn't work I think I would try 3 batteries (could be fun...don't get shocked!). If that didn't work I'd pull the engine and trans like these guys have sugested.
    Heck my moms crysler froze up like that (who needs oil pressure?) and it actually ran for another year after just putting 24V to the starter to un-freeze it!
     
  9. jberg62

    jberg62 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 7, 2001
    Posts:
    104
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Long Island,NY
    Thanks for clearing that up and excuse my rudeness.
    It sucks to have to remove/replace the entire engine but in the long run it could very well turn out to be a good thing /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
    Take care and good luck with the transition.
    Jim
     
  10. BrianDamage

    BrianDamage 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 14, 2001
    Posts:
    753
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Alabama
    Actually, you don't want to hook 2 batteries in series, that would make 24 volts, causing possible damage to components (Et=E1+E2+E3...etc E=voltage Et=voltage total)...

    you would hook them up in parallel, keeping your 12vdc(Et=E1=E2=E3)
     
  11. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2001
    Posts:
    3,808
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    CA (LA/OC area)
    Maybe I should have mead myself more clear. 24v (or 36v) to a starter shouldn't ruin the starter (if it does they are cheep and it would be worth it to save the time of pulling engine and tranny together)...but you only want to connect the wires to the starter.
     

Share This Page