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Need help with push button starter wiring

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 75-K5, Sep 18, 2005.

  1. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    I searched and could only find one vague thread about a push button starter. I'm wanting to do this on my '68 c20. The ignition switch is crapped out and the truck has to be hotwired in order to run. The start position still works, though, it just won't give juice to the coil. Now, if I wanted to rig up a push starter, how would I do it and still be able to supply power to all the other crap that's hooked up to the ignition switch? There are about 7 other wires that go into the harness that plugs into the ignition. If I hooked a switch up to the hot wire from the battery, and the wire that supplies the coil, how would I get power to the ignition? I have no idea what all the other wires do.

    Does anyone have simple directions on wiring up a push button system? If it weren't for the other wires, I could just wire a switch from battery to coil, but then how would I get juice to the starter? I guess I'm too ignorant of how an ignition is wired to even ask the right questions. I guess turning it to the "on" position completes the circuit between battery and coil, then "start" sends juice to the coil and starter? Or does the starter have a separate power supply? This is on a '68, so there's really not a lot of electrical crap to worry about, just wipers, turn signals, lights, starter, heater, and ignition, I think. I'm just tired of getting under the hood to hotwire it every time I start it, and figured a couple switches would be cheaper and simpler than a new ignition switch.

    Any help or advice would be welcome! :laugh:
     
  2. wildbilzrydn

    wildbilzrydn 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not really an expert on this, but I think I could help...
    I think as soon as you turn the key to run, it energizes everything that is on the ignition side of the fuse box, like your radio, coil, gauges, and etc. when you turn the key to start, it bypasses everything except what is needed to run the truck like the coil. Thats why your radio, and wipers and gauges quit when you turn it to start. the switch shuts them off to route as much of the battery to the starter as possible.

    Bill
     
  3. Esteban86K5

    Esteban86K5 1/2 ton status

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    You can run 2 switches. One 2 way switch that gives juice to all the accesories and one 3 way switch that will give juice to the ignition and give momentary power to the starter. When you need to start the vehicle, just hit the ignition switch and start it before you hit the acc. switch. That way all your battery power goes directly to your starter just like WILD said.
     
  4. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    OK, so let me get this straight. I would have one switch connecting the hot wire to where it would usually plug into the ignition cylinder. That would provide power to the accessories. Then, another switch connecting the hot wire, coil, and starter. But where would I get the hot wire for the 3 way switch? Wouldn't I have to use a relay to get juice to both switches?

    I could really probably get away with using one switch. Like I said, I really don't have any accessories. Just turn signals and gauges. There's no radio, and the wipers and heater don't even work. The turn signals would be off when I start the truck anyway, so no need to bypass them I don't think.

    The thing is, the current ignition cylinder works fine for everything except the coil. When running, my turn signals work so I know my accessories are getting power. The starter works as well, so I know that is functioning properly. I guess no reason to fix what ain't broken. Couldn't I use a relay switch with two outputs, one to power the ignition cylinder and another to supply juice to the coil? I think that would be the quickest and simplest fix. Part of me hates to half-ass it, but it is rarely driven. We only use it to get fill dirt and mulch, run to the scrapyard, and on extremely rare occasions I might drive it to work. So a quick, easy, cheap fix is the best in this scenario.
     
  5. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    So is the switch bad , or the wiring ? Did you pull the plug from the lock cylinder and jumper red to pink , and then momentary on purple to crank and see if she ran ( worked on 67-72 C-10's before ) . ? It could be a bad switch anyway .
     
  6. bugspray

    bugspray 1/2 ton status

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    I did this to my rig, as well as some VW baja's. You run the hot wire from the battery to a push button and a wire from that to the starter. Make sure it's the push button that is only hot while holding it in. As long as you have all the accessories you need when the key is "on", this will make it to where you can start it. My key switch crapped out a long time ago, and I stashed a button up under the dash. No one even realizes there is one, they just assume you use the key. I got sick of getting ready to go-and at night to boot- and have to crawl under and make the connection across the terminals with a screw driver. Even worse was that it was carbureted and needed that magic two pumps of the fuel pedal while cranking.
     
  7. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    I'm pretty sure it's a bad switch since it worked fine, then all of a sudden required direct juice to the coil in order to start. I tested the wire from the battery to the cylinder and it's good, and so is the wire from cylinder to coil.
     
  8. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    That would work, but I'm hoping to not have to run another wire, just to keep things clean. I'd rather try to use the existing wire and split it somehow. I'll probably end up running fresh wire from the ignition to the starter, since the starter also quit working, and I'm assuming it's because of bad wiring. Plus, it needs to be done regardless. Can I get a relay small enough to mount to the dash where I can supply current to my accessory block and to the coil?
     
  9. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Ok , then replace it . Its easier .

    Can't afford it then just install a tap onto the pink and red and run to a high amp capacity switch you probably have lying around, and put a momentary switch on red to purple :D
     
  10. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I have set up some dragsters with what you are trying to do. First, you will need two switches: a toggle type for the ignition, and a momentary spring-loaded push button switch for the starter.

    For the toggle switch (to power up the ignition) run a wire from the large starter solenoid battery terminal (always hot) to the switch. Then from the switch to the + side of the ignition coil. For the momentary switch (to engage the starter motor) run a wire the large starter solenoid battery terminal to the switch, and then from the switch to the small "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. This is a basic layout of the wiring for you.
     
  11. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    Thanks, that helps simplify it some. But with that layout, I still wouldn't have anything to power all the crap that comes out of the ignition cylinder. Somehow I need to get switched power to the ign. cylinder and coil, and momentary to the starter.

    For people who run a complete push button system: How do you get power to your accessories that usually plug into the cylinder?
     
  12. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    You are going to need a toggle switch control panel for this. You are talking a lot of work.
     
  13. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    Yuck. Oh well, I'm sure I'll find some way to half ass redneck rig it. :dunno: Even if it means bypassing all accessories and using hand signals. :eek1:
     
  14. Jagged

    Jagged 1 ton status

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    Three switches...

    One for your "hot in accessory" circuit - toggle
    One for your "hot in on" circuit - toggle
    One for your "start" circuit - momentary

    And if you felt fancy, you get get a three position switch for the accessory and on circuits, like up=on, middle=off, down=accessory.

    If you give me a bit I'll look through the wiring diagrams and figure this out.
     
  15. Jagged

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    I'm gonna need your help here. So far I've been able to find the obvious; red wire is hot from the battery, pink goes to the coil, and the purple goes to the starter. What other color wires are there?

    Edit:
    I'd be willing to bet all those extra wires go down to the fuse block, powering different circuits in start/on/accessory.

    Basically the way you would figure out the switches: find which color wires go to which fuse, and figure out if that system is hot only in 'on' or both accessory/on.

    For a three-switch system (one momentary and two two-position). The Red wire will need to be split into three leads (or connected to a terminal block). One lead will go to a post on the momentary switch, and the other two to a post on both two-position switches.

    Both two position switches will need multiple leads off the remaining post. I suggest using a terminal strip, but ghetto-rigging is appropriate as necessary. In any event, the wires going to the devices powered in "on" only will go to the "on" switch, and those powered in both on/accessory will go to the accessory switch.

    If you wire everything up correctly, it's just a three-step start: accessory, on, push start. If you have a battery thats worth anything, it doesn't matter if your lights, radio, or fan on when you're starting. And even if you have problems its not that hard to turn off the fan and lights.

    Hope this helps, and if you have any questions, have at it.
     
  16. 75-K5

    75-K5 3/4 ton status

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    Well I thank all you guys for the help and info, but I think I'll just replace the switch. My intention was a cheap, easy alternative to replacing the cylinder. I didn't want to make a 2 week project out of it. :eek1: I guess push button starting isn't as simple as I had originally thought.
     

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