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Need opinion on 14 bolt FF yoke problem

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by heavy4x4, Aug 21, 2003.

  1. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I'll explain my reasoning later if need be, but do you think it would be alright to replace the 4 5/16-24 bolts that thread into the yoke with 4 1/4-20 bolts and nylock nuts? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. Shaggy

    Shaggy 3/4 ton status

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    <font color="green"> It kind of sounds like something that one would do a as a trail fix... I'm not sure if I would trust the smaller bolts in there. </font>
     
  3. FWP

    FWP CRS

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    Sure, get grade 8 bolts, drive it on the street only (carefully- no burnouts) /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I definetly wouldn't wheel or tow with it like that /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif.
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, here's my dilemma:

    I purchased a pair of 3/4 ton axles which are just about ready to swap in now. On the 14 bolt, I noticed one of the bolts holding the u-joint strap on was busted off inside the yoke. In my efforts to create a hole in the bolt to insert an extractor, I snapped off the drill bit in the bolt /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif. So, I decided I would just drill it out to 17/64" (as recommended by the 5/16-24 tap) and just tap a new hole. Well, after about two hours of drilling, I managed to get a hole through the yoke - it wandered a little off to the side, but there's plenty of material left. So, I continued on and tried tapping the hole. I succeeded in popping off every one of the thread cutting teeth on the tap. After f'ing up the first tap, I bought another and drilled the hole size one step down from 5/16" and it still trashed my second tap. DAMN /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif So, I decided to try puttin one of the 5/16" bolts in that hole, and I can thread it down (I did make a couple of threads in the yoke) but then when I took it out, most of the threads were crushed down as I figured they would be. So, here's where I need some recommmendations. Should I;
    1) Just thread in the bolt (it goes in and stays in pretty tightly), let the threads smash down and hope to God that when I need to remove it in the future, it isn't completely seized to the yoke and I break it off
    2) The other three holes are fine, so I could put the 5/16" bolts in those and then do the 1/4-20 idea all the way through to a nut on that one bad hole - I really don't like this idea because of weight/balance issues
    3) Put 1/4-20 bolts and nylock nuts through all the holes in the yoke and call it good. How much stress is there really on those bolts? Mainly those straps are just holding the u-joint into the yoke, which sees most of the driving force. I mean those bolts are only torqued to like 15 ft lbs anyway.

    So, now that I've explained my dilemma, let the suggestions begin.

    And yes, I realize that replacing the yoke is probably the best solution, but I'm not too fond of that idea - messing with the crush sleeve, etc. So, let's go to that as a last resort idea.

    Thanks for any help and suggestions.
     
  5. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    could you drill out all the holes and run a u bolt instead of those straps? i have been thinking about doing this on my 14.... might require a little bit of grinding, to get the nut to thread on....
     
  6. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    I'd really just do it right the first time and get the new yoke. You can make it work, but that's not always the best way. Is this a DD? If it is, I wouldn't do anything but replace the yoke. You don't want it coming off on you when you're driving around one day.
     
  7. CHEVY 4WD

    CHEVY 4WD 1/2 ton status

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    what really is involved with changing a yoke? I though you just un bolted the old one droped the new one in and use a tq wrench to tighten it down
    /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  8. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    That's about all that you need to do. I've taken the yoke off the front axle on my truck before to replace the pinion seal, but that was nice because I could lock the hubs and then put a 4' breaker bar on the nut and it came undone. The problem with my rear axle right now is that it's laying in my driveway, so I think I'd have to wait until it's swapped in and can chock the wheels before I'll be able to get the nut off. I'm actually kind of leaning towards this option right now, but I like that idea about using u-bolts. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  9. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    On a 14 bolt FF you cannot simply unbolt the old yoke and then bolt up the new one. You have to take care of the crush sleeve which sets the pinion preload. If you mess that up then you need to get a new crush sleeve and reset the pinion preload.
     
  10. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, that's what I read about my front axle though too (10 bolt w/ a crush sleeve) and everything went alright doing it the way I did.

    I think I'm just gonna do the 1/4-20 bolt idea...basically treat the straps like u-bolts...know what I mean? /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I think it should hold just fine...I guess you'll know how things go when/if I make a post in a month saying I lost my driveshaft at 75mph /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  11. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    If I do end up doing the bolt idea (which I think I will), I'll probably drill out all the holes to 5/16" and use 5/16" bolts instead of putting 1/4" bolts in holes slightly larger than 1/4".
     
  12. MEPR

    MEPR 1/2 ton status

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    i wouldnt whant to half way the thing. Get a new yoke and youll be better for it.
     
  13. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    Personally I'd just drill out the threads and use ubolts in its place. Same size as on the 1350 yoke on the tcase (assuming you have it)
     
  14. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I think I'll head down to the local parts store tomorrow and see if I can get the u-bolt kit. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif (I already bought the strap kit /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif)
     
  15. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    The u-bolt holes are not on the same center as the strap holes. It'll take a mill to modify for u-bolts...
     
  16. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Crap, I just found that out the hard way /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif(went and bought a 1350 strap kit). That's not the only problem though too. I would have to grind about 1/4" off the back of the yoke ears in order to get the nuts and lockwashers on the u-bolts.

    So, looks like I'm going to drill out the holes to 5/16", buy 4 5/16" bolts to the proper length and some locknuts, and install the straps using those bolts...that should work. I'm happy with that solution. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
     
  17. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    The u-bolt holes are not on the same center as the strap holes. It'll take a mill to modify for u-bolts...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Good info there. I have yet to do this mod so it is just an idea for me right now. I'd like to go with ubolts tho as my straps are stretched. I guess what I'll do now is get some new straps until I get closer to actually modifying the yoke.
     
  18. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Less that $100 gets you any yoke you want brand new with u-bolts from Jess. My new 1410 is among the most expensive and it was $99 with u-bolts.

    I have my 1350 that I took off, but it is strapped. Nothing wrong with it except it pinched the straps (usable, but if I were going to run it, I would put new straps on) when I bowed my old springs over. If you are interested in it, I'll ship it to you for say, $40 shipped? I would recommend a new one though.
     
  19. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The yoke on my 74 K20 plow trucks front axle had the same dilema,that is the yoke from front driveshaft to front axle,it broke the bolt off in the yoke,and when I drilled it the bit wandered and it came out off centered a little,and my tap broke too--it was cold ,snowing ,and I had no patience for this sh@@ /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gifso I said screw it and drilled it 5/16 all the way thru--found a 5/16 bolt long enough to go all the way thru,had to be perfect length so it wouldnt hit the seal and deflector,all I had was a grade 5 bolt,good enough I said,I'll fix it right later,just wanted to finish plowing--I havent touched it yet!! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif,but soon I'll have too--the front shaft sounds like a locomotive with a square wheel when I take off its so sloppy at the spline and u-joints(by the way it was at least 5 years ago I put that bolt in!)I have a rebuilt driveshaft fresh from autozone,but I have to shorten it about 4" to mate with my 205/th350 setup--definatly before this winter! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gifI dont think I'll mess with the yoke--it worked well so far--if it aint broke dont fix it right??!.
     

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