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Need quick answer!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Eric M., Feb 21, 2002.

  1. Eric M.

    Eric M. 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    The front drive shaft on my stock 91 3/4 ton, 350 Suburban is shot. Slip yolk rusty, U-joint worn and CJ Joint bad (poor maintenance by last owner , not me!!). I went to have another one made and was told they could only make one with a 16 spline slip yolk, not 31 as the stock shaft was. If they went to a 31 spline yolk, the shaft would be a wider dia., but the tubing walls thinner. Kind of a trade off, stronger splines and weaker tube or stronger tube and weaker splines.

    Considering what I'm running, stock 350, 10 bolt front, 33" BFGs and mild wheeling, does any of this matter? Should I go to another machine shop or do you think the 16 spline will be plenty strong for my application.


    Thanks<

    Eric M.

    Blown K3500 [​IMG]
     
  2. Mudstud

    Mudstud 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Memphis, TN
    I suppose I would take the thicker shaft and 16 spline slip yoke. I have never heard of the splines on a slip yoke failing but if you bump a rock with the thicker shaft your chances of driving home with all intact are better. If you have the time and money you may want to check out Tom Woods or High Angle or Jessies drive shaft shops on the web.

    Mudstud
    <a target="_blank" href=http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s/6superliftand33s.msnw>http://communities.msn.com/OffroadK5s/6superliftand33s.msnw</a>
    76K5 6" with 33s, sb400/350/203parttime/3.73-D44/GM12bolt
     
  3. 4X4HIGH

    4X4HIGH 1 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Pleasanton, CA.
    I agree with mudstud. Check with HighAngleDriveline. Jess is a good guy to deal with. I just had him build me a 1 ton CV rear shaft. Quality piece that looks good too.

    1989 blazer, 383 stroker, 4.56 geared and detroit locked D44 front and 14BFF rear
     

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