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Need some advice

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by dirtwarrior17, Jul 12, 2005.

?

10 or 14?

  1. Go 14ff and take the hit for an arb

    8 vote(s)
    47.1%
  2. Keep the 10b, get cromos, gears, and a good locker

    2 vote(s)
    11.8%
  3. Get a 14ff with a lockright

    7 vote(s)
    41.2%
  1. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    I got some BIG plans for the K5 but now i'm at the crossroads and can't decide where to go next.

    For those of you that don't know I stuffed a tbi 355 in her a couple months ago and now i need to beef up the rest drivetrain. The motor will be making approx. 330 hp and 390-400 ft lbs when the map tuning is done but will eventually be more around 400 hp and 440 ft lbs when i put some 180cc darts and a 4x4 cam in a year or so and want to know if my 10bs will hold up. I want to go 14b but they don't make a cheap selectable locker and i don't even want to screw with arbs.

    Heres what i'm thinkin... Get cromos and the eaton E-locker for the front 10b, swap the rear for a 14ff with a lockright and be done with it. I really want to keep the rear free on the road but i doubt a 10b will stand up to that kind of tq with 36x12.50's.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. llegos

    llegos Registered Member

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    I voted for the first because when you get to that power, you dont want a 10 as a rear axle, let alone for off-road. Its best to go full on and feel the squeeze for a lil since you have such big plans down the road.
     
  3. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    The E-Locker is a cheap option at almost $700?

    For the cost of Chromos and an E-Locker you could have a 14 bolt and an ARB. Why do you not want to mess wtih them? They are a proven item. Yeah they break, but I'd bet money the E-Locker will break first(haven't seen enough used to know), even Detroits break.
     
  4. joez

    joez 1/2 ton status

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    Put a 14bFF in back with a detroit and call it good.
     
  5. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    I've seen e lockers for 500 in jegs.

    The reason i don't want to screw with arbs is the $$$$$. I've never even opened up my diff and doubt i could put together an air locker setup. Installation, the kit, and 14bff would run me around 1400 bucks. I guess i don't really have a choice besides the 14b tho. I just read my post and realized i was thinking of attempting to make a 10b live under 400 + ft lbs and big tires :doah:. How do you change a poll?

    The whole reason i want selectable is because my dad lives in oregon and i will be making long drives in heavy snow and ice and also i drive with my foot in it and don't want to screw up my tires with a locked rear diff on the road.
     
  6. joez

    joez 1/2 ton status

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    I drive all over the midwest in winter on my TSL's with a lockright in my 10b, and that included one trip to northern wisconsin in a wet, heavy snow. I had zero problems once i got used to driving with the locker, and actually prefer the rear locker in the snowy weather. My truck drives as good in two wheel drive with the locker as it did open in 4wd, and it steers better on icy roads. If you can figure out how to use that big mass of cells in your head they call a brain, you will have zero problems in snowy weather. The reason a good majority of people do have problems in snow with lockers, is because they dont know how to use that thing in their head, and blame their inability to drive on the locker, because its just easier than admitting they are an idiot. At least this is the case i see arround here with the people i have personally talked to about it, i wonder how some of them even got drivers licenses.
     
  7. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    How bad was the tire wear compared to open?
     
  8. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    how about getting it running right before worrying about anything else?
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Gotta second that, not an option in the poll though! :)

    Dont' look so far into the future, things change, no reason to spend money before you know how things are going to turn out.
     
  10. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    Because without a plan and doing your research you could screw up a rig real easy and be spending alot more $$$ than you have to.

    I need injectors and the prominator and it runs. Not much to worry about.
     
  11. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    What if you spend top dollar for the ARB, etc., then two weeks later, while your truck still isn't running, you find an absolutely screaming deal on a 14FF already locked?

    Want me to list a few parts that I shouldn't have bought until the "last" moment? (in other words, I would have bought something different had I waited, and typically I ended up spending money to replace things I already bought)

    Vortec Heads
    Carbed Vortec intake
    MAF TPI setup
    10 bolt rear
    10 spline 465/205 (both original and a spare)

    That's just a few. If I had not "seen a good deal" on these things, and instead, concentrated on finishing the project at hand first, I would have seen the better choices available before I spent the money.
     
  12. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    I'm not gonna go out and buy this stuff as soon as i get the money.... i still have to get a new shell, a front carpet kit, herculiner the back, build guards for the back 6x9's, find 2 clean fenders and doors, get it painted, get a new cd face, etc etc etc... I am actually writing all this stuff on a piece of paper so whenever i get some money all i have to do is look at the paper and I know what i'm doing next.
     
  13. MarcS

    MarcS 1/2 ton status

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    Your HP and tire size are really pushing the 10b to it's limits. Definatly upgrade the rear axle. 14b sf may be a option, but I don't think there is too many aftermarket products for it. At least you know the 14bff is about as good as it gets. As for the front, how are you going to wheel this thing ? Mud, 10b will hold up for a while if your carefull on the gas pedal. Rocks---Dana 60. I don't think there are any other options (like a 3/4 ton axle) there.

    just my 2 cents....
     
  14. hi pinion

    hi pinion 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah, i will agree with getting the motor running good before you do anything else dood. Then i would get yourself a 14ff . and slowly slowly get everything else. BTW , if your going to do the high pinion, get the ford hi pinion, much cheaper. O5r you could do like me, procrastinate the hell out of stuff, and just do it when you can.
     
  15. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    It will be an all around rig.... mud, hills, some rocks, and some drag races with ricers at the intersections.

    Right now i am asking because i'm bored and need to get my mind of some bs. I have to move out in 2 weeks and i don't have a job... my bro says i can stay at his house for 2 weeks then i am screwed again. Worst of all i can't even sleep in the blazer because it doesn't run. The first chance i get i will get the motor running and tuned but right now i need something to get my mind off this **** and ck5 is the best option i have.

    5 g's is alot for an axle.... I could buy a bobcat for that price. I thought they were more around 1500.

    P.S I was just ****ing with you dude......

    :wink1: :D
     
  16. hi pinion

    hi pinion 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah, if i were you, i would go get a job man. Then you can afford to buy the stuff you want. I would get your career in check first, and then save some money, and then buy what you want, what you REALLY want. That way you can have braggin rights to some nice 1 tons, etc. Hell, ive had my project on the back burner for a while now, just take your time.
     
  17. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    I've been trying... even had a couple interviews but no dice. I can get a job scrubbin decks for 8 bucks an hour but theres no way in hell i can live off that once i get an apartment. Redding sucks when you need work.
     
  18. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Yup! :thumb:
     

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