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Need some help!

Discussion in 'Rocky Mountain Region' started by therobzilla, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Ok,

    For thoese that know me, you know how bootie my steering arms are and the issues I have with the crossover/highsteer.

    I am going to order the arms this week from SKY and am going to redo the steering on the blazer to have is work more like it should.

    I am going to replace the DOM tubing. I currenlty have the 1.5 tubing and I am going to drop down to the 1.25 tubing. I need to know if anyone here has a RH Tap for the tube. Instead of using weled in fittings, I am jus going to thread the ends of the tubing. This will resolve the bindind issues with the two arms hitting each other. I just was hoping not to have to buy the taps.

    Someone correct me, but are the taps for the 3/4" heims we are using not 7/8" fine thread RH?

    Help a bother out?? :D

    Rob:D
     
  2. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Your heims are a 3/4-16 thread. A decent RH tap is under $30 from grainger. There are a couple local ones in town (phoenix and tempe).
    clicky
     
  3. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Matt,


    Once again, you are the man! :D :D

    Goes to show what I know!! I expected that from you! I was hoping you would check this post out.

    OK,

    So here is the question, if I used 1 3/8" DOM tubing and then threaded the end for the 3/4" heims, then use the the heims without tubing ends that weld in, do you think this will survive my torture?

    The reason I am thinking of doing it this was was:

    Right now I have to attach the drag link to the tie rod, in order for the two not to bind when running through the cycle of steering. If I put the tie rod and drag link both to the steering arm the 1.5" tubes touch each other while thru the steering motion, only because of the tube size. If I had the smaller 1.25 or 1 3/8" tube size they won't bind.

    So if I go with a smaller tube size, I think I can attach both drag link and tire rod to the steering arm. This resolving my steering issues in the rocks.


    Matt, your input please??? I'm not worthy. :bow: :bow:
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    1 3/8 DOM won't tap for 3/4, unless I'm missing something. 1/4" wall still leaves you at 7/8". Your going to need something smaller than 3/4" ID (not sure the exact size) to tap 3/4". So 1.25 wtih 1/4" wall still won't be small enough.

    As far as surviving. Either should do fine as a straight drag link, probably even as a bent drag link, but not sure.
     
  5. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    Gonna get wordy:D (you asked for me to play with numbers)

    Yes it should. When you use weld in adapters there is usually only 1" of thread engagement (no matter how much thread is inside the tube). When you tap it you go the depth of the thread. The total thread inside the tube well be the total thread engagement. Your current set up should have a good 1.5" of thread engagement (that is a good thing). The more thread engagement makes for a lower chance of loosening of the heim shank. You need to make the ID of the tube .6875" (11/16). If you use the 1.375 (1-3/8) with a .250 wall it will give an ID of .875 (7/8). That won't allow for any tapping. The 1.25" .250 wall tube ID will be .750" (3/4). Once again too big for tapping. You now have a choice of .375 (3/8) wall tube. The 1.25" with a .375" (3/8) wall will have an ID of .500" this will need a bit of drilling before you can tap it. The last option (also the best for tapping) is 1.375" (1-3/8) tube with a .375" (3/8) wall. It will have an ID of .625" (5/8). You might be able to tap this without drilling since there is only a 1/16" difference (translate to .03125" (1/32) on each side of the tap). It is also the strongest of the options.

    Hope i didn't loose you. (carpenters work in fractions and I work in decimals). <- This is why jets are not wood, and homes are not aluminum:grin:
     
  6. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Matt,

    I knew I could count on you!! I think I want to try the 1.25 tube 3/8" wall thickness, then drill it and tap. This will reduce the overall thickness of the tubes allowing more clearances for the tubes to interact with each other without as much chance for binding.

    I will make some calls tomorrow and find out what this stuff costs. Any ideas?

    Does anyone have about 10' of this laying around I could purchase.

    Rob
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Where do you get .375 DOM? I tried to get some from SW recently for my lower links and they didn't carry it in 2 or 2.25.
     
  8. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    SW has it in 1.5" in stcok. I don't know about the larger sizes. I asked about random stuff (like the 1-3/8 .375 wall) and they said they can get it from another yard in a different state.
     
  9. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    Can I be the man too even though I have absolutely nothing beneficial to add to this thread?


    Yea I know, I know. Go back to your hole now Allan and be quiet.:crazy:
     
  10. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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  11. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Ouch! That's twice what I paid for 2 x 0.250 of course that still needs inserts, but no taps. Oh well, it's done now.

    Thanks for the pointer though.
     
  12. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    :haha::haha:......

    Yeah.... all right Allan.... you 'da man!

    Marv
     
  13. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I know they are a little high, but they seem to have some of the more random sizes, and don't show a lot of the normal stuff (can't find 1.5" .375 wall). I don't know anywhere locally other than SW with a large DOM selection.
     
  14. justhorsinaround

    justhorsinaround 3/4 ton status

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    WOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!! Go me, go me, go, go, go me.
    :saweet: :thumb: :woot: :saweet: :thumb: :woot: :saweet: :thumb:


    :screwy: :screwy: :screwy:
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2005
  15. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Why in the hell are you staying with heims if you hate them so much?

    Harley
     
  16. therobzilla

    therobzilla 1/2 ton status

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    Because I'm not sooooooo money like Springer. I already have the heims, I I go with the Ball Joints, that's just more money out of pocket.


    I spoke with Sky today, he told me the arms they are making currenlty (current production run) are the tapered holes for the non-heim joints.

    It's got me thinking right now, maybe it's time to convert back to steering components?

    I am going to ponder this some tonight. May convert back to standard.

    Thanks Harley, you just jogged the memory some.

    Rob

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  17. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    TRE and DLE all the way. No way I would put rod ends in the steering. Not thrilled about it in my links, but all in all it made sense there.
     
  18. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    Get all right hand thread 7/8" TRE's. Part number is ES 2234R. They are $26.99 each with a LIFETIME warranty from Checker. Heims offer no such warranty and are alot less common. All my TRE's are the above mentioned part number. This way when they wear out or break them I take them back and get new ones free. Also I only have to carry 1 spare TRE because they are all the same part. The one spare will fit in any of the 4 positions I have.

    Harley
     
  19. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    P.S. Is your junk all hosed up? If not don't start messing with all your steering stuff yet. We are going wheeling soon. Gotta have one good last hoorah before I take off you know.

    I need at least 1 more good hard trail before I shut my junk down. :D

    Harley
     
  20. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Are you running TREs on the drag link? Are you sure they are going to have enough misalignment? Cross over does not need nearly as much as the stock, but I used DLEs just because I didn't want to hit the limits. Anyone know what the angular limits of TREs are? I know it's not a whole lot, they basically just pivot since there is no change in orientation except for that caused by pivot offset (for caster/camber). Might be plenty, I have no idea, just curious…
     

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