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Need some opinions on engine upgrade/ timing chain........

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by heavy4x4, Mar 29, 2003.

  1. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Hey all, my TBI 350 with 162,000 is getting kind of sluggish. I'm thinking about tearing into it a bit this summer. My initial thought was to just do a timing chain replacement, but then I came across this kit, and figured while I was in that far, why not put in a new cam. (My truck's had noisy lifters ever since my family's owned it). Well, anyway, my question is...do you think I should go with this kit. I was thinking of getting the closest-to-stock cam so as not to upset the computer. I also want to retain reliability. Do you think I'll have any problems with those two areas? Also, to replace the cam, I'm assuming I'll need to remove the AC radiator (I know that's not the right term for it, but I'm having a brain fart) along with the regular radiator. Do I have to disconnect any pressure lines on the AC radiator, or can I just pull it up out of the way enough to get the new cam in.
    Thanks for your opinions/help.
     
  2. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    That kit looks pretty good. I have the 262 cam in my K10 and I love it. I would suggest that you call CompCams techline to make sure the cam you want will work ok with TBI. I wouldnt think the smaller one would cause any problems but you want to be sure before you buy it.

    I dont remember exactly, but I think you can leave the AC condenser in place.
     
  3. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Also, since you'll already have it torn down that far you may want to check into getting the heads rebuilt too.
     
  4. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for your reply. That's good news about the AC radiator - anybody know for sure whether it needs to be moved?
    Also, how involved is this project going to be. I'll buy/borrow/rent any tools and pullers necessary, but does anyone have any heads up for me?
     
  5. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    you may want to check into getting the heads rebuilt too

    [/ QUOTE ]
    I thought about that too - figured instead of getting them rebuilt I'd go with vortecs and a new intake, but I think that's going to be a bigger chunk of change than I want to spend. Maybe a future project?!?!?!

    Oh yeah, I can replace the valve springs with the heads still on the block, right? There is a valve-spring compressor out there for that, right? I've replaced a valvespring on a head in high-school auto class before, but the tool I used hooked all the way around the head and probably wouldn't work if the head were still on the block. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  6. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    You don't have to remove the A/C lines from the condensor. You just have to do it carefully so you don't break the connections on the condensor. Also before doing mine, I had heard that you would have to cut the center support in front of the radiator, but that was not necessary either.
     
  7. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    That's all good news...thanks.

    For another question/idea I had going through my head...if I'm going to be doing the whole cam and lifters and stuff, I'll need to remove my distributor and intake manifold. I've read that you need to mark the position of the distributor with the firewall or something. Well, why wouldn't this (or could this) work: just leave the distributor bolted to the intake. Is that feasible? That way your timing is going to be the same when you assemble things. Sorry if that's a dumb idea or won't work - but please enlighten me on why it is/isn't. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  8. JeremyK5

    JeremyK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    The reason that wouldn't work is because the distributor shaft will still spin around, and if you just put it back on that way, the rotor would be way off.
     
  9. 78GMCJIMMY

    78GMCJIMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Man your droppin' some dough on a highmile 305? Hey BUDDY you should really consider pullin the motor out and replacing it with a rebuilt/remanufactured/or GM crate motor!!!I bought a longblock 350 from a machine shop for $695 minus pushrods/rocker arms and then traded a used set of heads for new rockers/pushrods and got a used oil pan for $20 all from the same machine shop!!!Oh yeah the machine shop threw in a complete gasket set also!!!BONUS!!!!Just take your time and look around and you'll find a smokin' deal!!!I'm happy as a clam with my fresh 350 in my 78 GMC Jimmy High Sierra 350/th350/NP203 4x4 Just a thought I guarantee you'll be much HAPPIER with a totally FRESH motor!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif
     
  10. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Man your droppin' some dough on a highmile 305?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    He's got the Fuel Injected 350 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Well, it's a 350 - not a 305, and it's still in good running condition. I'm just a little greedy and want a little more power. I'll only be putting about $350 into it - which I think is reasonable seeing as how it hasn't needed any big $$$ fixes before. I'd buy a whole new engine, but 1) I can't find deals like that, and 2) I'd just assume learn how to do all this stuff first-handed rather than have some engine shop sell me an assembled engine. Thanks for your input, though.
    (I see you're new to the forum - could you fill out your profile...go to "my home" and then the edit area...that will tell us who you are, where you're from, and what you drive - thanks)
     
  12. gr8z71

    gr8z71 Newbie

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    You do not have to remove the ac condensor to change the cam. You will need a dampner puller in order to remove the timing chain cover. I would recomend that you don't put new heads on a motor with 160,000+ mile on it,,, you will get blow by from the lose bottom end. The 262 cam will work with the TBI motor and makes great low end power. I think you would be better off to keep the heads that you have and just change the springs if you change cams. All you have to mark on the distributor is where that # one plug wire is in relation to the intake maifold, put the # 1 piston on top dead center and then you will be close enough to get is started and use a timing light to get it perfect, 12 BTDC works great on mine. firing order for that engine is 18436572 moving clockwise around the distributor cap. Hope this helps.
     
  13. milspecjimmy

    milspecjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    as far as putting #1 on TDC you need to know that #1 comes to TDC 2 times during its cycle, if you get it to TDC on the exhaust stroke, you'll be 180* off when it comes time to run it, make sure its on TDC FIRING POSITION, or you'll be goint nutz trying to figure out whats wrong with it. the easier way to find this is to pull the plugs out and have some one crank the motor over while you hold your finger over the end of #1 plug hole. when it comes around on firing position it will blow your finger off, when that happens have him stop, then hand turn the crank to line up the timing mark on the balancer with 0 on the timing tab.
     
  14. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Won't it also be at TDC firing position when the rotor points to the number 1 sparkplug wire position and the timing mark is lined up? On the exhaust stroke I would think the rotor would point in the opposite direction of the #1 spark plug terminal.
     
  15. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the help. I thought the timing procedure for a TBI engine was diconnect the brown wire and then time it to 0...hook up the wire and the computer will take care of the rest. /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  16. 78GMCJIMMY

    78GMCJIMMY 1/2 ton status

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    Sorry for callin' your FI350 a 305. But I still believe you need to do more than a topend rebuild buddy!I'm not bashin' you or your knowledge however 162,000 miles on a 350 and you wanna' do the topend only!I've seen people do this and the new topend pressure/tightness blew out the bottom end!I really think you should at least consider a cheap re-ring/re-bearing MINIMUM in addition to a new cam/lifters/timing chain/and heads!!!Yeah Buddy!!!Yee-haw!!! /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  17. 78GMCJIMMY

    78GMCJIMMY 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    [ QUOTE ]
    Man your droppin' some dough on a highmile 305?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    He's got the Fuel Injected 350 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ] TBI350 /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
     

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