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Need some suggestions for 2500HD build

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by w0lf, Jan 6, 2007.

  1. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    Hi,

    I'm in the process of building my truck up slowly but surely, and need some advice on the next few components. My truck is a 2005 Silverado 2500HD Ext. Cab 4x4 with the 6.0L engine. So far I've put on Flowmasters, K&N FIPK, and a Hypertech.

    The next 2 big things that I want to do are tires & rims & a new rear bumper / tire rack mod. I have several questions about both, so here we go.

    1 - Tires & rims -

    Since I only have one truck, and it is used for towing / hauling, I have decided not to lift it (even with all the engine mods, it still doesn't have a ton of giddy up). As such, I’m thinking of either leaving it on the stock rims, or perhaps replacing the rims if I can get some lighter & stronger ones (or decided to pony up for bead locks). So that begs the question, should I even bother replacing the rims if I’m not going to lift it?

    The biggest I can go on the stockers is 265/75/16 and I need an E load rating. This eliminates BFG Mud TA's which is where I started from. I'd like to get a pretty aggressive AT, or some durable MT's.

    Here is what I’m looking at now:

    Toyo Open Country MT's
    Or
    Pro Comp Xtreme AT's

    I'm leaning towards the AT's due to their tread warranty, but the local Chevy dealership said they suck. Anyone have any input or suggestions on the tires?

    2- New rear bumper / tire carrier

    If I get new tires, I’m going to have to pull the spare off the bottom of the truck either way. The dual Flowmasters have minimal space next to the spare as it is. Since I need to do that, I’m thinking about having a custom rear bumper / tire gate built. Ideally my thought was to build something like you see on the rear of many older Blazers or every Jeep in the world. Specifically, it would allow me to keep the tailgate on, mount 2 x 5 gallon gas tanks, my hi lift, and the spare.

    Anyone seen something like this before, or have any input on why that might be a good or bad idea?

    Thanks in advance for any/all input.

    Wolf
     
  2. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Why can't you run 285/75-16's on the stock rims? I love those stock rims, as long as you got the alcoa ones, so i'd stick wiht those if you don't lift it.
     
  3. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    i'm just going by what chevy, tire rack, and americas tire company told me. will that big tire fit on that rim? i tend to think it would rub as the stock turning radius looks pretty tight as it is?
     
  4. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Wait for other people to comment, but the tire places say that for liability.

    I THINK 285's will clear fine on your setup with stock rims.
     
  5. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    a 285 is too wide for the stock 6.25" rim. you will crown the tire and they will not handle correctly. I worked in a tire shop where we would mount them for people every week. We even did it to the shop truck when the stocker wore out. they didn't stay on long. get a nice set of 8" wide wheels and run up to a 305 with no lift. might have to crank the bars an inch.

    A body lift is a cheap way to fit a much bigger tire on your truck. you already have 4.10 gears so 305/70R16 will not kill the power.
     
  6. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, i lose. Isn't there some narrower tire that is equivalent to like a 33 10.50? like a 255/85 or something? Limited sizes, but yah, might be another option.....
     
  7. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    that is good info, so what tire/rim size would you recommend?

    would i have to use a body lift to put anything bigger than 285's?
     
  8. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    friend of mine ran 265/80R16 swampers. they also make a 9/34-16. they are out there you just have to look harder. we used to sell lots of 265/80 for guys with dually's.
     
  9. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    ok, i'll check that out thanks for the suggestion. i'm not sure if it matters, but my truck isn't a dualie?
     
  10. gmc4cw

    gmc4cw 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I know its not a dually. just that they make tall narrow tires so that guys with duallies have something to run. thats why they make a 38/11-15 bogger. if you want a tall narrow tire it is not something that is going to be advertised in a magazine much.
     
  11. dhcomp

    dhcomp 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    He said dually, cause they need wider, taller tires so the 2 rears don't rub each other.
     
  12. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    got it, thanks!:D
     
  13. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    Ahh, now i get it..
     
  14. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    You don't need E rated tires either. Most of the time, tires that are a little larger have nearly the same weight listing but still fall into a class D profile. Regardless, you've got a small block, not a Dmax. Don't rule out a D rated tire, as your truck isn't that heavy.
     
  15. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    so i'll apologize in advance for being a dumb ass, but can you explain that part to me? the guys at tire rack, the chevy dealership, and a local tire store were all pretty clear that i did need an E rating? Is that just if i stick with the stock size? The stockers are E.. :o
     
  16. misterfnygy

    misterfnygy 1/2 ton status

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    My choice--

    I run Toyo MT on my 02 in 315-75-r16 and they work great. Lots of traction, ride well and they are quiet. Should have the same load rating as the AT. Check out fullsizechevy.com fo some good forums covering those trucks
     
  17. mr.smartass

    mr.smartass 1 ton status Premium Member

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  18. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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    i already have the same post over there, they had the same suggestion (but thanks for the idea).

    where did you put your spare, underneath still or in the back?
     
  19. w0lf

    w0lf Registered Member

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  20. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    No prob man...

    Ok, your stock tires should be around the same weight rating as my stock E rated Michelins were. 3600lbs at 80psi. Times 4 tires =14,400lbs total weight that you could essentially make that truck weigh and the tires hold it up. For one, you have a small block, so there is 500+ lbs less on the front end from the lack of a Dmax.

    Now, say you are going to pull a heavy gooseneck. Most 'necks are going to give somehere between a 10-20% tongue weight depending on how you load your trailer. If you were going to pull a heavy 'neck that say weighs 15K (the max you probably can tow, if over the manu' rating) you are going to have a tongue weight of around say 2K or so.

    Now, back to your tires. Your truck probably weighs 6,500lbs in stock condition, thats essentially around 1,625lbs on each tire. With the gooseneck, that puts you around 2125lbs on each tire, roughly. Thats a long way from 3K+ that your tires are rated at. Where you could run into some weight issues is filling the bed with something really heavy. Say sod, that crap is heavy.... Then if you could manage to stuff 3-4K on the bed somehow you could creep up to where an E rated tire is needed, but there again no Dmax so there is an extra 500+lbs not on the heavy part of the truck, which is the front end.

    A slightly larger tire with a load D rating will be adequit. I run 33x12.50x16.5 Cooper Discoverers on my Ram that has a much heavier Cummins up front and a big D60. They have a 2,910lbs at 50psi rating and it's still weight capacity to pull my gooseneck with anything on it. BUT, I never fill my bed full of heavy stuff, I just pull a trailer if it's anything big or heavy enough to matter.

    GM, tire companies, internet sites are going to say you need an E rated tire, because thats what the manufacturer calls for, but you just have to read between the lines and figure out what you are going to actually use the truck for, and unfortunately, most of these heavy duty trucks don't get used for much more than commuter cars anyway.

    Does that help some?
     

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