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Need Torque Ratings

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 77GMC15, Jul 30, 2001.

  1. 77GMC15

    77GMC15 1/2 ton status

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    I really needs the torque ratings for my pushrods on my 77 350. So much crap has happened trying to put this in and mainly parts back ordered for over a month. Well any torque ratings on putting this back together would be great. My Haynes manual doesnt show any ratings. Any help is greatly appreciated.
    Luke

    The road is calling you.......ignore it!
     
  2. shawnboy

    shawnboy 1/2 ton status

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    There are 2 ways to do this, the long sorta clean way or the quick and messy way. The old school way is if the engine will run, put a piece of cardboard on the exhaust side to block the oil spray and loosen each rocker one at a time until it gets noisy then snug it down till the noise stops. Don't over tighten or you'll hate yourself and have a bent pushrod. Do this to each one, one at a time and you'll be done in no time. Then clean up the oil put your valve covers back on and go wheeling. The other way takes a bit of time and is probably the way you should do it especially if the engine isn't in running order. The Hayes manual will give you clearences between the rocker and the valve stem. You'll need your feeler gauge for this. Find top dead center on #1 intake and tighten down to specified clearence then do the same to the exhaust valve and repeat for all. At least that will get your engine started then you can use the first technique. I'm sure there are other ways to do this but this is how I do it. Hope this helps cause I can't type anymore.
    Shawnboy.

    If you are having too much fun it's probably illegal.
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    One other method is to get the rockers close to hitting the pushrods (you really gotta pay attention with this) then, while spinning the pushrod with one hand, slowly tighten the rocker nut. When you FIRST feel drag on the pushrod, stop. Then tighten the nut 1/2 turn more. Repeat for each cylinder, making sure that the valves on that cylinder are completely closed first.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  4. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Both of you guys are wrong or only partly right and he's asking for a BURNED VALVE, not a bent pushrod or any of that.

    Do not do any adjusting with the engine running as it's inaccurate and will result in a burned valve if you don't know what you're doing.

    Do not use a feeler gauge to set your valve lash. That is done with SOLID LIFTER CAMS ONLY UNLESS YOU USE RHODES LIFTERS.

    With a normal hydraulic cam, you have to make sure that the cam is on the base circle (no lift). That means you need to either have it on top dead center of the compression stroke of the cylinder or have the intake valve just starting to open or the exhaust valve just starting to close. I prefer the latter method as it's more accurate. Then, you spin the pushrods in your hand and when you feel a slight resistance, tighten them 1/4-1/2 turn more.

    That's the correct way, that's how I set mine, and I have no burned valves, bent pushrods, or wiped cam as a result and my lifters don't clack. BTW, I have a Comp Xtreme 4x4 that was installed on an engine stand, making the job much easier.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  5. Mreetz

    Mreetz 1/2 ton status

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    I've always adjusted mine while the engine was running, guess I'm the luckiest guy alive!

    1984 K-5
    4" lift
    35x12.5 MTs
    buildin a 400 for it, any info greatly appreciated
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I did mine by hand, the way I described. Except I do recant the part about the valves. You need to do it by lifter travel, since the hydraulic lifters will absorb the torque on the pushrods when they aren't pumped up.

    If the pushrods have no preload on them, thats when you can adjust them. The pushrods don't care at what position the crank is at, they care that you set the pushrod "preload" when the lifters are at the bottom. Only reason crank matters is because its tied to the cam by the timing chain.

    As a matter of fact, you can do half a cylinder at a time if you wish. As long as the lifter is at the bottom of its travel, you will be FINE. Hydraulic lifters take up a small amount of slop, and any time you adjust something by TOUCH, you aren't going to be able to accurately replicate the results on each piece.

    Granted, this whole process, IMO, is easer with the intake off, which is how I did mine. I could SEE that the lifters were at the bottom of their travel.

    Dorian
    My tech/links page: &lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&gt;http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&lt;/a&gt;
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     

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