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Need with Hardtop Installation

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ks-k5, Oct 15, 2001.

  1. ks-k5

    ks-k5 Registered Member

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    I am installing a double wall hardtop and need tips on how to get it to fit... I set it on there yesterday and it just isn't right. Anybody have any tips or lessons learned? Do I need to get new seals to make it fit and seal?

    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. JoshA

    JoshA 1/2 ton status

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    I just installed mine yesterday, and mine didn't fit right at first either. try puting the vertical bolts that go into the window frame in first, that should pull the top down enough to get the horizontal ones in. AFA the bed rail bolts go, make sure that you are on flat ground. you may need someone to push the sides of the top around a little to get the bolt holes to line up.
    -Josh


    '72 blazer 9" lift YOKO mudders 35x12.50 350/sm465/3.73 UTAH
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    KSK5,

    I feel for ya bud....I installed my dbl-wall top last week and had the same issues. One thing I did to save my sanity was put little black marks on the inside of the top to show where each bolt was located under the bedrail....that way I can somewhat do the threading of the bolts by "feel"

    I started in the very back and put in a single bolt on one side...the top does 'splay out' on the bedrails so you need to go to the opposite side next and get a bolt in there to start forcing the top to take the proper position. From there I loosely installed bolts up both sides of the bedrails and did the windsheild ones last.

    The windshield ones are wierd....they have a bolt and two screws (at least mine do) so it allows you to cinch the top forward slightly and then down onto the gasket. It seems like that's how the factory wanted you to do the "fine tuning around the front windshield and window gasket areas. Get those two windshield brackets adjusted correctly, and then go back and cinch down all the bedrail bolts.

    My top is in such bad shape that I also went around the entire perimeter of the top and shot a bead of caulking where the gasket sits (mines not really there anymore!) and smoothed it all out so it looked decent. Next year when I pull the top off, I hope to be able the throw it away for good, so I don't want to spend any money on gaskets unless I absolutely HAVE to. [​IMG]

    This is my idea on how to re-install.....not based on anything other than my own personal experience. Hope it helps.


    -Greg72
     
  4. kansas blazer

    kansas blazer Registered Member

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    hey are you the guy from mulvane with the blue blazer ? i think i talked to you a few weeks ago at quality body shop . if you need help with that i could lend a hand
     
  5. JST12

    JST12 1/2 ton status

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    One thing that plays a large role in how the top fits is the condition of the body mounts under the tub. If they are distorted or rotten, the body can sag in that area. After loosening the body mount bolts, I jacked up my body in various places using a floor jack and a 4x4 piece of wood. I was able to ensure the body tub was straight using the door seams as a reference, then inserted the proper number of shims (3 inch washers) under the body mounts to keep it there. Good luck , JT
     
  6. ks-k5

    ks-k5 Registered Member

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    Yes... I remember meeting you. Good to know there is some experianced help nearby!

    TJ- 72 Blazer
     
  7. ks-k5

    ks-k5 Registered Member

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    I'm sure you're right on target. I noticed my drivers side door didn't shut very well after taking the old top off (the old top was helping to hold up that side fo the body). If I put a jack under the frame on the driver's side it helps the door fit and the top as well. Thanks for the information! I'm sure this will help get me back on the road etc... The last thing is to get everything to seal up again. Anybody know where to get the correct paint to match the top? Is there anything with the texture in it??

    TJ- 72 Blazer
     

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