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Need write up on dana 60 install into Blazer

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by merace19, Oct 24, 2003.

  1. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Need write up on dana 60 install into 86 Blazer stock. I looked using the search function but could not find anything.
     
  2. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I think Steve did a write up on his axles swap under the technical section. He was talking about at D44 at the time but the install is virtually identical. Differences would be:

    If you have a lift and are using a raised steering arm, You will need to get a steering block.

    Not much else. Good luck. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    Check this out D60 and this Axles
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  4. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    Many thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
    I will be installing the front next week some time and the rear later that weekend. Need to get my lift ordered 1st. i be pimping when its done.
     
  5. juanblzer

    juanblzer 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah, it is very easy install. Just make sure you have the studs for install, new u-bolts, u-joint compatability for your d-shaft to 60 mating, and either raised block (sucks is my opinion) or crossover steering (the only way to go). Used a small service truck crane to lift my blazer's front in the air, then hit the bolts with impact tools. Seriously, an hour job with the right tools.
     
  6. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    Speaking of D60 installs, is there any way at all to keep the swaybar when doing the crossover steering swap? I know, I know, I should leave it off. But if I want to keep it, can I?
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    nope. The reason the swaybar is there is essentially eliminated with crossover anyway.
     
  8. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    juanblzer
    What studs? I may have over looked that in the write up. I dont have a lift on my truck now will i have to do anything extra with out one? Or would it be better to get the 4incher i was gonna get anyhow? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
     
  9. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    There are either 2 studs or 2 grade 8 bolts on the passenger side pumpkin to hold the u-bolt plates down along with the regular u-bolt.

    You can use either studs or just get some grade 8 bolts to fit in the hole. 5/8" coarse thread by however long you need.
    Studs are more preferred as they are stronger than bolts. These won't be something you can get at your parts store. You may be better off calling some shop like ORD or any of the aftermarket lift kit manufacturers and ordering a pair from them. Again, bottom threads will be 5/8" coarse thread to fit the D60 housing and the top threads will be 5/8" fine thread like the u-bolts. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. merace19

    merace19 1/2 ton status

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    I have the entire donor truck to get parts from so it should have those studs in the axle already? Is the front drive shaft going to have to be shortend to work?
     
  11. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    The front shaft varies from truck to truck whether it will fit or not.

    For example: If you are installing a D60 into a 3/4 ton or smaller truck, AND ADDING A LIFT KIT AT THE SAME TIME, then no, you will not need to shorten the shaft.
    But if you already have the lift installed and the shaft is made to fit the 10B or D44, then you will need to shorten it.

    I've found doing a 6" lift on a K10 or 20 and adding a D60 at the same time will allow me to reuse the front shaft, unmodified, because the pinion on the D60 sticks out further therefore eliminating the need to shorten it.

    But, don't take my word for all this info because the shortening/lengthening process totally relies on what the driver is planning to do with the truck. If you are gonna be a mall poser, you shouldn't have to cut the shaft. If you are gonna do rock crawling, your best bet would be to do the shaft last and see if it will fit so you can determine from there what hits and fits. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  12. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    84_Chevy_K10, how exactly does the crossover eliminate the function of the swaybar? My understanding of a swaybar is that when in a turn, the outside suspension compresses. The inside suspension is going to want to rise. The swaybar is supposed to push down on the inside and help level the front end a bit to help with body roll. Crossover steering according to one article I read said

    "With the stock front to back steering setup, as your driver's side tire moves up and down, it will actually turn the steering wheel in your hands. This is called bump steer. If the driver's side tire is in extreme droop, you will have very little, if any steering. The reason this happens is that the drag link from the factory is only about 16 inches long. When the drivers side tire droops, the drag link is put a severe downward angle, in which effectively reduces its length to about half of normal. This takes away almost all the steering ability with the stock drag link. Another downfall of the stock setup is the ability to turn sharp after a lift is installed. This is due to the increased angle the stock drag link has."

    A stock rig has a swaybar, and yet suffers from the above. So, it seems crossover and swaybar functions are kind of apples and oranges. But, correct me if I'm wrong. My concern was that on the street, my handling will suffer considerably without the swaybar. I will have better articulation off road, but have a poorly handling front end getting there. Am I over concerned?
     
  13. Fubeca

    Fubeca 1/2 ton status

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    I think you are right about the apples and oranges thing. However, our trucks' springs stock and lifted are usually stiff enough that you will notice very little difference with the swaybar connected or disconnected. The easiest way to see is to just disconnect it and go for a drive to see how it feels. I drove for the last 6 months w/o a swaybar and didn't notice any difference at all.
     
  14. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I have the entire donor truck to get parts from so it should have those studs in the axle already? Is the front drive shaft going to have to be shortend to work?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    The donor's hardware will only work if you're retaining the stock springs when you install the D60 in your truck. The overall thickness of the lift spring stack is thicker than the stockers and will require longer u-bolts and bolts/studs.
     
  15. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I believe what Tim is trying to say with the "elimination of the sway bar" has nothing to do with the performance at all.
    The "elimination" has more to do with the fitment with the crossover drag link. Take a gander under any truck with crossover and you will quickly see that the sway bar will not allow any movement of the drag link because it will either bind/hit at the pitman arm end or down lower at the passenger side u-bolt plate end where the sway bar bolts in. There simply is no way to fit a sway bar to the GM types of aftermarket crossover steering. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  16. mudjunkie 82

    mudjunkie 82 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    K30 Guy, would you be better off going to hydro steer and keeping the sway bar?
     
  17. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    Should I do a poll of those with crossovers and ask if they have noticed a significant decrease in street performance without the swaybar? If it isn't degrading on-road capability, then crossover really has no drawbacks that I can see.
     
  18. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Hydro steering won't make any difference in the steering if you try to retain the sway bar. The crossover draglink is still gonna hit the sway bar. No matter how you try to bend the drag link, its still gonna hit the sway bar. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     
  19. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Whether you do a poll or not, I'm gonna guess almost 100% of everybody who is running the crossover steering system do NOT have a sway bar because, a. they tried to bolt it back on to see if it will fit and find it don't, or, b. they leave them off so they can get more travel as sway bars limit travel quite a bit, or, c. they find out the brand of lift springs they install are either soft or firm and depending on which they have, the firmer they are, the need for the sway bar is not necessary.

    Another thing to take in consideration: all GM trucks did not have sway bars before 1973. So when you lift a 1st generation Blazer, etc., its gonna ride accordingly to the brand of lift springs and there won't be anything to do about it since pre-'73 never came with sway bars. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    Again, as I stated above, the sway bar use has not been solved or figured out when crossover steering comes into play. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  20. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I bought TC 6" springs and was going to go with Rancho 9000 shocks so I could dial them in depending on whether I'm highway riding the long haul to the wheeling spot, or on the trail. I was figuring the adjustable shocks would give me some options when the sway bar goes. Thanks for everyone's response on that question.
     

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