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Nerf bars/rock sliders?

Discussion in 'OffRoad Design' started by AJMBLAZER, Mar 4, 2001.

  1. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    I'm asking for your professional opinion here.

    I need to get some nerf bars before my fiance gets here this summer, so her 5'2" self doesn't have to jump every time she gets in the Blazer. Now, being that my philosophy is to get the best you can get, I want to get some nerf bars that are also rock sliders, so I can use my hi-lift on the sides, and that offer real rocker protection in the event of a sudden drop.

    My two options are a set of the <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.AllProOffroad.com>http://www.AllProOffroad.com</A> bars that 4Wheel & Offroad put on a Ramcharger last summer, and some made by a private party who would use my truck as the prototype for bars for 88+ IFS trucks.

    The All-Pro Bars weld completely to the frame, which you can see on the above link. I think if 4 Wheel trusted them enough on a Ramcharger, they will work with my truck, since the weight is about equal.

    The private party's bars bolt or weld to the frame, and then they bolt to the body. I'm kinda worried about that last part. I like beef, and I am not to sure about that. I mean, if you did actually hit them hard enough to bend them, SCRUNCH, goes the rocker panels.

    The All Pro's cost more, but I am 90% certain of their strength. The private party's are cheaper, and I am certain they are good quality work, but I am not to sure about their ability to support the entire vehicle's weight.

    I've seen your truck, I know how you drive it, I have some of your products and I trust your knowledge, so I was wondering what you though of this?

    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 2.5" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's[​IMG]
     
  2. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    My setup has legs that go through the floorboard to the roll cage, so when I set it on the nerfs, it's pushing up on the frame and roll cage, so they are as solid as they can be. I don't think you'll want to introduce the associated road noise into your truck. I know the frame is pretty wide on an IFS truck, so it's not going to take a lot to hold it up, there won't be as much leverage against the mounting points. The all pro style would work fine, and a bolt on would probably do ok too. I wouldn't tie them to the body though, unless you do it through a factory style mount to isolate you from the road. One other factor you have working for you is the amount of frame the IFS trucks have hanging down. You could brace the bars off the top and bottom of the frame to triangulate the mounting and make them really stiff. That's the route I would take and not worry about the weld vs bolt. Either will work ok if built properly.


    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  3. AJMBLAZER

    AJMBLAZER Better to be lucky than good. Premium Member

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    Thanks man!

    I guess All Pro it is!

    Keep us IFS guys updated on that solid axle swap kit. If I were in Colorado I'd let you have my truck as the guinea pig.

    Unfortunately, I'm not.[​IMG]

    1992 Blazer Sport, 350 TBI, 4L60, 3" Flowmaster, K&N, 2.5" Rancho, 285/75R16 on 16x8 Baja's[​IMG]
     
  4. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I plan on installing a set of rockstomper.com nerfs made from 1-1/2" DOM tied in to the frame with a small part bolted to the pinch seem, I know I have heard this is a no-no but I know someone that has this setup on another Blazer and they work great, at this point I want strength and can deal with a little vibration if any at all, but that's why I'm here to see what works and what doesn't. [​IMG] The reason for the attachment at the pinch seam is to keep them from flexing up and smashing the rockers, I'm hopeing that there is enough flex in the outriggers to absorbe any amount of flex between the frame and body, I will let you know after I install them.
    I have seen Stephen's and they are the way to go if you can tie them into a roll cage if you have one, most likely what I will do when I get a cage fabed up.

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    Mall-Running poseur 4x4 with curb-feelers
     
  5. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    I'm a little suspect of 1 1/2" tubing. Mine are 2 x .120 hrew and have a little bow to them. They're supported in the front and rear only, where if you go to the body they'll be supported all along, so it may hold up. It should also be more dent resistant than the 2" given the same wall thickness. I don't like the idea of tying the body and frame together since it pretty much negates the idea of having soft body mounts, but give it a shot, we'll see!

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  6. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    The 1-1/2 is DOM, I forget the strength but they are as strong as 2" .120 wall, (I will find out exactly what the strength is) Lower Helldorado next month should be a pretty good test to see if they are going to work or not. [​IMG] Let's see if we can tear them up!!!

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    Mall-Running poseur 4x4 with curb-feelers
     
  7. K5 NUTT

    K5 NUTT 1/2 ton status

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    Moose made a prototype set of rock bars for his 76 K5...we traded a tpi set-up and after some mods they are on as of saturday. They are made of schedule 40 pipe...it has 4 sced 40 bars welded to them that terminate at the frame with angle iron with 7/16 bolts on the middle 2...and 1/2 frame bolts at the front and rear bar...we used a neat heavy wall sheet metal plate ( 2 pieces with 1/8 L shaped lips opposite of one another with 10 3/8 holes drilled in one the welded together...this made a channel at the bottom to locate the plate to the back of the rocker...the we installed two 3/8 nut-zerts into the back of the rocker and 3 more 3/8 bolts thru the bottom lip of the rocker...then we welded 3 4" sections of 1/4 by 2" strips to the plates and the bars...) haven't set her down on a rock yet but i pity all the smaller cars in the mall parking lot that open there door to far...no door dings for me!

    Azblazer

    1979 K5
    1976 K5 Chalet
    1972 K10 Suburban
     
  8. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    My bars mount to the frame and body, simular to how the SEC bars mount. As I told AJMBLAZER, I will mount them any way he wants me to. After I made and installed mine, I used a floor jack and lifted the left side of my Blazer off the ground. I also held the 2"x .120 wall tubing down about 1/4" or less incase it did flex. It did not flex with the floor jack. I did use a rubber bushing to mount them to the frame, but do to production reasons, I can't do that on the production model. But the way the production model is monted, it would be easy to add a bushing of some kind, if you wanted it.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com</A>
    Protect the land FOR the people
    Not FROM the people
     
  9. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    Blazin, I saw the ones you sent Shawn, how do those bars attache to the frame?

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    Mall-Running poseur 4x4 with curb-feelers
     
  10. Brady

    Brady 1/2 ton status

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    I built mine into the body using 2x3 box tube this works great.I can lift the side up all at once.Got rid of the rocker rust at the same time also.I did the passenger side first need to finish the sheetmetal work(Lots of rust!)Then do the drivers side(no rust,go figure?)Brady

    '73Beautiful Disaster <A target="_blank" HREF=http://beautifuldisaster.coloradok5.com>http://beautifuldisaster.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  11. seattlek5

    seattlek5 1/2 ton status

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    I did the same as BRADY but welded 1 1/4" receivers into them flush for removable steps so my wife would still ride in the K5 (she hates to drive it, which is fine by me)
     
  12. Stephen

    Stephen 1/2 ton status Moderator Vendor

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    The individual design details are all up in the air right now, but material wise, I would use at least .120 wall DOM, especially if you use tube as big as 2". I checked mine out and I have some dents and flattened spots on them, in addition to a little bit of a bow on one side. It's nothing worth changing, but I would consider it a minimum material. They're 2 x .120 HREW. They're going to be cut into the rocker panels, one problem I've run into is that I can clear some major rockes with the front and rear bumpers, but hang up in the middle all the time. So i'm going to whack the panels and move the bars up. Should give me about 2.5" or so, maybe a little more.

    Making the world better, one truck at a time.
    [​IMG]
    SW-ORD
     
  13. blazen91

    blazen91 1/2 ton status

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    Steve- Because no two Blazers are the same, I made it where you have about 2" of adjustment. The 1" tubes go from the body mount perch to the angle iron on the slidder. Have you received your new slidders yet?

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazen91.coloradok5.com</A>
    Protect the land FOR the people
    Not FROM the people
     
  14. CK5

    CK5 In my underwear Administrator Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    I should have mine next week, Scott is in Moab this week trying to break stuff.

    Steve
    [​IMG]
    Mall-Running poseur 4x4 with curb-feelers
     

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