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New axle fits...driveshaft won't

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Troopie's Tonka, Oct 22, 2002.

  1. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif I have an 88 K-5 8" superlift and just put in 12 bolt in rear. I have already taken the dang thing off and on 2 times trying to make it work. first put it on and the drive shaft wouldn't reach. then, took it off again and put 6 degree shims in, drive shaft reaches, but the u joint is grinding. also has the 1" zero rate block. only thing i can think of is two take the block out and have saggy butt again, or maybe another shim? or drop the tcase some? i don't know. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
     
  2. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    ZOOIKKS!!! You need to have that driveline lengthed and put those shims back in (or you'll need a driveline loop to catch it when it fires off). What do you mean by the U-joint grinding? Lose a needle bearing or something?
     
  3. fulltopblazer

    fulltopblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    Are you trying to use the stock driveline? If so it'll never work your going to have a new one built or have yours reworked. BTW leave the shims in the rear it will help with driveline angle.
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    8 Inchs of lift! you need a new drive shaft with a CV joint at the top. Your NEVER going to get a stock shaft to run vibration free with that much lift. Look for Driveline man on here. He builds some of the best shafts around.
     
  5. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    U joint is grinding because the angle is too much for that kind of U joint.
    You need to either get a high angle driveline, or get a C/V driveline and turn your axle up inline with the driveline.
     
  6. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    I meant that the drive shaft is at its maximum angle pointed down, and the i guess you would call it "ears"? of the drive shaft is hitting the thing that sticks out of the pinion that the ujoint goes in...i can drive it, around the block, but once it gets into second, it starts clank clank clank clank. i don't know if the drive shaft is stock or not. bought the truck 2 months ago, came with the lift. the old axles' spring perches were welded on at a different angle so the pinion was pointed up at the tcase. with my old axles it would only vibrate when i first hit the gas.
     
  7. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    so who is the driveline guy? and how much are we talking for the c/v driveline? i went to some fabricator place and the guy told me to get a cadillac driveline, somewhere around 3-400...hmmmm..have to wait a coupla months for that one
     
  8. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    Nick name drivelineman
     
  9. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    The 88 should have had a 10 blt. axle. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the 12 blt use a different size ujoint? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  10. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    Not really, mine was the same, unless it's the 28 spline 10 bolt. but I guess the rears came with the 30 spline?
     
  11. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    Ok, I wasnt sure about that. I thought I remembered someone mentioning that before.
     
  12. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    the ujoint fits, and the driveshaft is connected...it is just that it is at too much of an angle. think i could lower the t-case a little bit? how much can i lower it?
     
  13. rogerwilco71

    rogerwilco71 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    1" and you can use the spacers provided on the top bolt of the cross member. Dropping any more and you really take away from the front, not to mention tweaking your motormounts. 8" needs a lengthening for sure, and I wouldn't even drive it or you're sure to toss it. Play around with different shims--more or less after you lower the cross-member. I've grenaded tons of U-joints with 8" and a 10" til I found the right shim combo. You may even consider a driveline loop for everyday street and take it off for wheelin. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
     
  14. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    If you're having problems at rest, what do you think will happen when the axle tries to droop?
    /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
    Go get a driveline, you will end up with a towing bill more than the driveline's worth. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  15. NetBlazer

    NetBlazer Registered Member

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    In some cases, yes, the 12B has a different (smaller) size on the yoke for the ujoint. Most of the research I did before swapping in a 12b in mine said "no problem, they are the same" but I was not so lucky. Got it all bolted in brakes done wheels on, just finish it up by bolting on the shaft....WTF /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif it doesn't fit /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I ended up getting a conversion joint at NAPA that made it work fine. Cost about $25 for the joint, and I don't recall the number off hand. After the fact, I heard that the 10b/12b yokes are interchangeable, so I could have just swapped out the yokes and stayed with a normal ujoint. Oh well.... /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    Sean
     
  16. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    I had a 10 bolt and a 12 bolt that had different yokes but they were interchangeble, but you also needed a different size seal one is larger.
     
  17. Troopie's Tonka

    Troopie's Tonka 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif haha, that sucks...man i would be pissed. nah, but my ujoints fit and everything...just that with the inch zero rate and the fact that the axle came off of a blazer with not as much lift makes the pinion angle bad. (it is parallel with the ground) my buddy suggested to get another shim, or take my 1" block to a machine shop and have them cut an angle in it to point the pinion more at the tcase. hopefully this will get me on the road for a while until i have the time and money to get my hands on a c/v shaft. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif the problem isn't with the yoke at the tcase, it is with the one at the pinion. if i had to guess, i could droop the assend about 4 inches before the ujoint up top breaks...how likely is that? just gettin into this wheelin thing so i don't really know how much my butt every really drops.
     
  18. ColAdo82K5

    ColAdo82K5 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    ICEMAN,
    What seal do you need when swapping a 10 bolt yoke on to a 12 bolt ? I'm planning on doing this one my self.
    Blake
     
  19. 4x4Freak

    4x4Freak 1/2 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    You could probably make the rear gain 4in. pretty easy even on the street. It could probably happen pretty easy if you have to stop real hard. And you should forget about doing any wheeling with it like that, especially anything in the rocks. I say get it fixed.

    Speaking of pinion angle; I saw this lifted z71 with the blocks installed backwards. The pinion was actually pointing towards the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif
     
  20. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Re: New axle fits...driveshaft won\'t

    I don't have the part number but it's the seal around the yoke, on the snout. One is larger than the other, and the other thing you will need to get a new crush sleeve for the preload on the bearing. I forgot about that.
    I didn't change that and I tightened the nut too much, ended up toasting my bearing in a few months. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
     

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