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new cam, timing ?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by borton, Jul 13, 2001.

  1. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    I just put a compu cam in, 264/274 duration, it went in an 89 350cid TBI suburban, I'm having trouble getting the thing to run, did I get to radical of a cam? where do I need to set the timing? I can get it started, and it will run, but if I drive it it pings like a mother and dosen't want to idle worth a crap, help.
     
  2. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    did you mark the distributor and rotor when you pulled it out. Did you crank over the motor while the distributor is out. You probably either need to repull the distributor and get it lined up properly if you can't fix your problems by adjusting the timing... timing should be the same as before.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  3. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    You may need to get a new PROM chip that is programed for the cam you are running. the stock chip does not work well with cams that are not stock lift and duration. either one of these guys should be able to help you out.
    http://www.jetchip.com/

    <font color=orange>GOT HORSEPOWER?</font color=orange>
     
  4. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    I dropped a similar cam into an 88 350 TBI. Mine ran great with all the stock electronics, and I didn't have any sort of chip.

    Pull the distributor, turn the engine to 0 degrees on cylinder 1, (and you CAN be 180 degrees off) then drop the distributor to the correct terminial on the cap. Firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. The only other thing that can throw things off like that vavle lash. Be sure to follow correct valve lash procedure. This can make or break your new cam install.

    As for timing settings, start at 12 degrees if you're running &gt;91 octane fuel. Otherwise, I believe that 8 degrees is factory timing spec. The higher you can get the timing without pinging, the more performance you can expect from your engine.



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  5. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    where do I find out about the valve lash?

    sorry, I was a little confused, I've got the valves right and all adjusted3/4 turn past where they stop clicking, so its a matter of me having the distributor in the right place now,

    I can start the thing and the timing mark is way past the scale, so guessing I'd say 24*+ before TDC if I take it to 12-8* it dies, am I a tooth off? which way to go, clock wise?<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by borton on 07/13/01 10:53 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    good point I didn't even see the year in there... DOH! What is the overlap on the cam? You may want to call some one like Turbocity... they are TBI gurus and know alot about what cams would work and whic wouldn't.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</A>
     
  7. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Check here for lashing instructions:

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.darklair.com/monte/howto/howto.valve_lash.html>http://www.darklair.com/monte/howto/howto.valve_lash.html</A>

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  8. KRAZIE87K5

    KRAZIE87K5 1/2 ton status

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    Move the tooth backwards, so that it is before the #1 cylinder. Thats all

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  9. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    ok, I'm not sure what the over lap is, but I have the sheet on the cam here and the intake opens at 8* ATDC and closes at 32*, the exhaust opens at 37* BBDC and closes at 3* not sure what that means tho its a compucam #2030
     
  10. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Crane claims that their CompuCam line will work with the stock chip so it sounds like either the cam isn't timed properly with the crankshaft or the ignition timing is totally out of whack. Did you line up the dots right on the timing sprockets? Got all the plug wires connected to the right spark plugs? [​IMG]

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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  11. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Yep the Crane compu cam 2030 should work ok with the stock computer When you said the cam had 264/274 duration i thought it was way too radical for a computer. But the 2030 only has 204/214 duration so that should be fine.
    Have you checked for vacume leaks?
    Are there any codes up on the computer?
    Oh yeah. When you set the timing did you disconnect the black and tan wire at the connector on the drivers side fire wall. This is the timing bypass wire. If it is not disconnected you cant get the timing right.


    <font color=orange>GOT HORSEPOWER?</font color=orange><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Thunder on 07/13/01 12:24 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  12. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    dots were lined up on the sprockets, distributor I don't believe is in the right place or it would run right. I haven't checked for vaccuum leaks, I'll do that, haven't pulled the codes either.
     
  13. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    is there anything I need to unplug ie: vacuum advance line, on this distributor when timing or does the computer controll all that and all I need to do is get the thing in the right place and set the timing to 8*
     
  14. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    (see the edit to my previos post)
    the wire is black and tan on my 89 Blazer it may be different on your Burb. read the Vehicle Info tag in the front of the engine compartment it will tell you what to disconect. Also timing setting on a 89 is 4 degrees according to my manual O degrees in Calif.

    <font color=orange>GOT HORSEPOWER?</font color=orange><P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Thunder on 07/13/01 12:38 PM (server time).</FONT></P>
     
  15. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    what is this black and tan wire next to on the drivers side fire wall, I'm not sure there is a sticker in there anymore that will tell me what to disconnect or where to put the timing.
     
  16. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    Ok. look by the power brake housing thing next to the firewall . There should be a thick wire loom with a black and tan wire and a inline connector hanging out of it. Seperate the connector. Your check engine light should come on. This puts the computer in bypass mode and the timing can then set. Just set the timing as you would normally. You can go higher than 4 degrees if you want. Mine's set around 6. After you get the timing where you want it connect it back and the check engine light will go out. Things then should be right then.
    You cant set the timing without disconnecting the wire because it will put way too much advance in it.

    <font color=orange>GOT HORSEPOWER?</font color=orange>
     
  17. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    thanks, I'm thinking I've seen it before. so if I disconnect this and set the timing, could this be my whole problem? no thats to easy.
     
  18. borton

    borton Registered Member

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    ok, I had a manifold vaccuum leak, I wasn't sure on the timing chain, had another leak in the map sensor line, probably the big thing, and in there some where I changed the plug wires, and got the #4&#6 wires crossed, spent sat and part of sun fixing and cleaning up, and the sad thing is I don't really notice a diffrence in the performance, this sucks big time. but I'm not ready to do another cam for a long while.

    parts I broke changing the thing, the condensor coil $220, the tv cable $20, and the coolant temp sensor $20, I could buy two more cams for that amount :(
     

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