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new carb trouble

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Dunc03, Jun 3, 2001.

  1. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    I have another question for you guys. I'm trying to find a stock replacement for my 86 blazer. I contacted edelbrock about my carb, part number 17085226, They said it was computer controlled and that they didn't have anything. I have two questions. One, how isthe carb computer controlled, and is there any other carb out there that will fit my blazer that doesn't cost $600 bucks. Thanks for the insite.
     
  2. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    I have 2 questions for you.
    What knd of emissions laws do they have in Texas?
    Why do you need a new carb, Why not rebuild it, What is it doing?

    Twiztid
     
  3. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    This is what I have done to rigs with that set up.
    Get an older HEI distributer and an older Q-jet.
    The Edelbrock carb is nice but if you are gonna hit the trails stick with the Q-jet.
    For the distributer all you have to do is run power from a source that is controlled with the key.
    IMOHO the set up you have has got to be the biggest POS that GM came out with.
    If you have emmission concerns in your area you can still make it pass. And have better results too.
    Just my .02
    See ya

    my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
     
  4. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    Texas is not very enviromentally friendly by tradition so we only have emissions testing in magor cities like Dallas and Houston. The reason I need a new carb is becasue the old one is far gone, and has already been rebuilt twice I think. My mechanic seems to think that a rebuild won't fix the problem. I think that the electronical part of my carb is shot. I have electrical connection running to the carb besides the choke and ac solenoid. I don't have a clue what it goes to or operates, but I think its what edelbrock is calling "computer controlled". Whats weird is, when it running if you slam the passenger door the thing dies, and that sounds like a short. I haven't found any visible signs of a short or bad wires, but with the miles of wire who knows. Thanks for the help
    later
     
  5. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not the electric Q-jet guru here, So take this with a grain of salt.

    I belive, what makes a 'lectric Q-jet is the main meatering rods are pulswidth moudualted to adj the air fuel ratio for the primarys. Basicly that means that the jets are opened and closed several times per second to increase fuel flow or restric fuel flow to the primary boosters.

    I think I would probably swap out the Q-jet for a older style, The HEI dis. might also need to be swapped out also, like sugjested above- but I'm not sure. I think thats it, pretty much a streight forward swap. Not too ruff. I'd check out some scrap yards for parts, or swap meets. I'd also wait to get somemore replys on this, I'm sure there are some details that I don't know of.

    I hope that helps out some.

    Twiztid
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Get the Q-Jet I think it's the 1905. Jegs lists it as the electric choke version for $419. It will hook up to all the rest of your emmisions the only thing different is it doesn't have that POS electric mix control. Runs fine will pass emissions fine if in the future you have to do them.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  7. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    There really is nothing wrong with the "CCC" carbs (computer controlled carburetion I believe). They do not hurt wide open throttle one bit, and are much more efficient at lower RPM's than a standard Q-jet. That being said, IF they are in good condition. Sounds also like you have a short, but it could be the ECM for the carb/dist that I believe would reside behind your glove box. Could be loose wires as well.

    The plug on the drivers side is the TPS, throttle position sensor. Plug on the passenger side front is the MC solenoid plug, Mixture Control.

    Not sure about the '86's still, but lockup may have finally been controlled through the TPS these years.

    Not sure if Holley still rebuilds them, but I thought Holley was selling them as "Holley II's" which are just rebuilt CCC Q-jets. No one makes new ones, at least not yet, nor do I expect them to.


    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  8. Dunc03

    Dunc03 1/2 ton status

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    Well you are right about Holley remanufacturing these. I purchased one for about 400, but I'm still having with it running right. It starts kind of slugish, but runs fine once warmed up at first. After you have it on the road for 5 to 10 miles or so it starts to idle rough and have a lack of power. IT seems to do this when the engine gets hotter. When it does this it smells like it running rich. I think it might be a problem with the electronic mixture you spoke of, the ecm. YOu said tha it was behind the glove box which I'm assuming means in the engine compartment. Does it have a vacuum hose that runs to the carb, or just electrical wires. There is a sensor that comes off of the thermostat houseing and has wiries that runs to the carb. What does this do, or is it part of the ecm system. Thanks for all you help man.
    Dunc
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    That sounds like the choke out of adjustment or a bad choke element with it running ok at start but running rich when cold. When it's running like doo doo take the top air cleaner loose and see if the choke is fully open. You can pop the choke off manualy for a second and see if it clears up. if it clears up then you need to check that element. I forgot what the ohms mesurement will be when it's good.
    I have had a problem where one didn't ground right on the choke bowl. Had some electrolisis form and just needed a quick scrape around the lip and it worked fine.
    If this is the choke then just looking at $40 for the element if it's bad and the rest is adjustment.
    Be sure you got 12v at the wire when the truck is RUNNING. should be no voltage when the engine is off even if the key is on. The mix control runs on the same circuit so again if there is no 12v then the mix solonoide is not working.
    As for the CCC carbs...I have has yet to see one on a truck. Near as I can tell only the 86 cal emmisions trucks got them. Now a lot of other trucks got the electric mix carb. The difference is there is a TPS sensor on the driverside of the carb on the throttle linkage on the CCC version.

    Diging it in the dirt with my K5's
    Grim-Reaper
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/>http://grimsk5s.coloradok5.com/</A>
     
  10. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    &lt;&lt;As for the CCC carbs...I have has yet to see one on a truck. Near as I can tell only the 86 cal emmisions trucks got them. Now a lot of other trucks got the electric mix carb. The difference is there is a TPS sensor on the driverside of the carb on the throttle linkage on the CCC version.&gt;&gt;

    I have now seen these with my own eyes. I agree, they are CA only carbs AFAICT. When they only have one plug, apparently (again an eyewitness looked on his truck to confirm) there is only the MC solenoid NO TPS, which is very odd if you ask me. MC solenoid goes full rich if disconnected BTW.




    Dorian
    My tech/links page: <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</A>
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     

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