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new front brakes on the C20...

Discussion in '1936-Present Suburban' started by Ddragggon, Feb 8, 2002.

  1. Ddragggon

    Ddragggon 1/2 ton status

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    well, I finaly put new front brakes on teh C20 sub... the auto wear sensors were all sorts of unhappy making loud screaming noises although fortunately I didn't hit any rivets on them, or burn any holes, lines or trenches in the rotors. now that I have the pads on, I have teh briliant question of the week... should I bleed the brakes, or anything like that? they still don't seem to have the killer stop on a dime ability that I dream of my truck as having... but they are significantly better then they were. will tehy improve as the pads conform to the rotors, and whatnot? I used carbon metalic pads.. good choice? bad choice? I plan to eventually get me the happy little rear disc setup to hopefully make it stop on a dime... when I do that, I plan to put in steel braided lines, and new hardlines all over the place... I figgure part of the problem I have with this stupid thing is brakelines 1/2 full of old nasty crud. I also need to decide if I seriously want to keep this truck forever, or just fix it up, throw a 350 in it, keep my 454 for another project, and sell the sub. this thing originaly lived in the rust belts of northern texas, and northern coastal california before finaly moving to arizona in 91... the body is pretty much trashed, and the frame is shot with small ripples and bends in it from either an accident, or my lead foot twisting the frame about. either way, its not what I'd call the best of situations for a vehicle I'd want to spend gobs of money on. I need to go out and examine my 73 C10, and see if the frame is completely screwed in it, or if I'll be lucky, and only have the front frame horns be screwed up. ( if its just the frame horns, I'll either straiten them with a chain, and truck, or just ignore them)

    of course the 3rd option here is to find a rolling sub chassis, and throw that under the 73 tub, and make a new happy vehicle... of course, that takes a lot of effort, and since we be moving into what we call `the season where its too hot to think about working on vehicles' I might not be able to do that. oh well, I'll give john a call tomorrow and see if I can't cruise on out, and assess the vehciles rebuildability...

    with that tangent out of the way, brakes advice: helpful, and thanks in advance...

    -Rich

    My truck isn't ugly, you have a skewed sense of beauty

    <font color=blue>2007 Ford XLS++ intrepid Ram Superduty 7000 R-type's suck</font color=blue>
     
  2. Ddragggon

    Ddragggon 1/2 ton status

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    ok, after driving a little bit, the brakes are really starting to work a lot better... guess I just had to wait for the pads to conform to the rotors, to make stopping a possible thing.

    -Rich

    My truck isn't ugly, you have a skewed sense of beauty

    <font color=blue>2007 Ford XLS++ intrepid Ram Superduty 7000 R-type's suck</font color=blue>
     
  3. chvyhs

    chvyhs 1/2 ton status

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    I'm taking an automotive class at the local college right now. We were checking out brakes on tuesday and found that who ever did my reasr last time did it wrong. They put the primary shoes(the big ones) on one side and the secondary shoes(the small ones) on the other side. I put things were they belong and adjusted the rear brakes now it stops better than I ever thought it would. Maybe you have the same problem. I would try bleeding the system too.
    As far as the rusted tub goes, my dad was telling me yesterday that he's looking at a Suburban with no motor for free right now.
    Good Luck.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/chvyhs>WebShot Pics</a>
    It's a wheelbase thing, you wouldn't understand.
     

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