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New here. Help me evaluate my plan guys!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by beerbudget, Aug 14, 2004.

  1. beerbudget

    beerbudget Newbie

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    Hey guys. I've been browsing for a couple months now and decided to join. I have an 85 Jimmy w/ factory 350/700/208 w/ 3:08's. This is my second K5 so I learned a lot of things (and things not to do) w/ my first one I had.


    One of the first things I'm gonna do is swap in a set of "3/4 tons" that my friend has no use for so I can have them for free. They already have 4:10's loaded in them but they are open diff. I can't complain, they are free /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. What's a way of IDing these things positively? Also, what's involved w/ swapping this into my K5 (brakes, steeing, ball joints, tie rods, etc.)

    Also, I want to have just a 4" lift to clear 33's. This truck is very nice and mostly rust free, so I don't want to hack sheetmetal at all. This truck is mostly going to be street use w/ a little off-roading. My girlfriend likes to drive it and for hardcore wheeling (moslty mud around here) I'm looking at a 2500 Burban for that. So what lift should I go with? Against what most people do, I would actually be looking for a suspension that's not that flexible do to street handling. Would shackle flips be practical?

    I want to build a big block w/ a TH-400 (I'm not messin w/ trying to build the 700 for the horsepower that I want). Where is a good place to find BBC parts at a decent price. I know Summit and Jegs by heart but was wondering if there are places you guys have dealt w/ that are cheaper. I am possibly looking at stroker kits as well. My one friend loves building engines and is going to build it for me. So I would be looking more for kits rather than short blocks. I've done head and cam swaps, but never built an engine.

    I would also in the near future be looking for a basket roof rack if somebody is looking to get rid of one.
    Also, as you can tell by my name, I will be doing these on a budget. Anything would be of help. I am passionate about these trucks and I got this because I regretted every day after I sold my other one (although that one is in good hands; it now has about 15" of lift on 42" TSL's w/ LOTS of room (too much).

    Many thanks in advance guys!!!
     
  2. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    As far as the axles go, just go threw them. New bearings, ball joints, brakes, axleshaft ujoints, fluids, etc. Just normal maintanence on them. The front axle is a direct bolt in. The rear should bolt in too but you will need a special ujoint for the rear driveshaft to get it to adapt to a 14bff axle (assuming that is the one you are getting). Napa #447 is the joint you should need. Shave the rear axle before you put it in. It will act like a land anchor if you don't.

    Also do the normal maintanice stuff on the driveshafts. New joints if they are loose, grease if they are tight.

    Harley
     
  3. atho

    atho 1/2 ton status

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    4" lift, 33" tires, mostly street driving? then shaving would be an unnecessary waste of time.

    first you need to id your axles. your front will either be a dana 44 or a 10 bolt. they are pretty much interchangeable as far as swapping into a truck, but lockers/lsd's arent as numerous as for the d44. the 10 bolt will have 2 little "ears" sticking off the bottom of the diff, which makes it easy to ID.

    as for the rear axle, you could have one of 3. if it has a round diff and a dropout third member like a ford 9, then it is an eaton H052 axle. If it has 10 bolts holding the cover on (and the fill plug is on the diff cover), then it is a dana 60. if it has 14 bolts holding the diff cover on and has the fill plug on the side of the axle, then it is a 14 bolt.

    good luck /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  4. Z3PR

    Z3PR Banned

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    Yeap, the axles are pretty much a bolt in except for the the conversion u-joint already mentioned. I say the Shackle flip is a much better choice the blocks for the rear. I'd still recomend front springs like BDS or Tuff Country for the ride quality.
     
  5. beerbudget

    beerbudget Newbie

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    Oh I definatly don't plan on using blocks, I'm going w/ springs. I was just wondering if getting a lift w/ all four springs or just the fronts and using a shackle flip in back would be better; basically, what is best? I have the access to the axles, I will shave the bottom of it. It not going to be exclussivly a street ride, I just don't want to go through the trails that I would with my old K5, like trails wide enough for atv's with out scratching on branches /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif.

    What about any good places for engine kits?
     
  6. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    Street driving and mild trails , not really towing much , I'd go for the shackle flip if your rear springs are in good shape . It feels fine driving mine flipped , can't tell anything is out of the ordinary . I drove home yesterday with a front axle , my trailbox , spare shafts , 5 rims and two tires in mine , and it felt good .

    You could take the money you save in the rear springs and put it towards a rear locker . Which is by far the best thing for any truck . Keeps you moving forward with less throttle than an open diff

    As for not scratching , I wouldn't worry about it , most scratches buff out on wash and wax day /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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