Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

new member, need info

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by JaketheSnake, Jan 2, 2002.

  1. JaketheSnake

    JaketheSnake Newbie

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2002
    Posts:
    3
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Oklahoma City
    hello, i am a new member. from the bio, u can tell i own a 1981 fullsize jimmy. well, right now, my automatic locking hubs (i dont have to get out of the truck) are not locking, but the transfer case is working cause i can put it in 4x4 and the front gears will wine. so, what should i look at for this? also, i was wondering, will a 12-bolt rear and whatever transfer case i have, and whatever front end i have, handle 39" baja claws, 350 pontiac block, and weekend fun (maybe compatitions every one and a while)? i know i will have to beef up the 12-bolt and frontend, and u-joints, and what about yokes? sorry, i have way too many questions for a newbie. i will be posting new questions quite a bit til i can rest my mind on what i need to buy. thanks, joe

    1981 gmc jimmy, full size, 4.1L I-6, 3speed manual trans w/low gear, 33" bf trails, heavy duty u-joint, eaton 12-bolt posi-SOON TO BE BIG AND BAD
     
  2. 1bigk10

    1bigk10 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2001
    Posts:
    151
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Medford Oregon
    this is the best piece of advice that can give you.
    Never stop asking question and never stop planning and thinking of new mods.


    1982 K10 Silverado. [​IMG] 327 SHPE powerplant SM465/205,15"custom lift 38.5"TSL/SWAMPERS 12boltrearD44 front,3.73 gears.
     
  3. fr8train

    fr8train 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2000
    Posts:
    1,712
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Maryland
    I would ditch the auto hubs......autohubs are not deigned for the stress of dealing with that much tire...before you lift or do anything with tires get your frame re-inforced with the weld in kit from ORD or other dealer and invest in the steering box brace( avail from ORD )...if you are really going to do a lot of wheeling you can spend a lot of money to upgrade your current axles or go for a 1 ton setup.....the debate on that issue is very warm....regardless you are going to want to get into some lower gears( numerically higher) somewhere in the 4.56 + range.....welcome to the board and to THE NEVER ENDING WORLD OF MODIFICATION.......

    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/thatguydrew23>http://community.webshots.com/user/thatguydrew23</a>
    "JEEP....SO GIRLY, BARBIE HAD TO HAVE IT"
     
  4. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2001
    Posts:
    1,975
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Plano, TX
    Well, here is a question that is always in debate around here. Which axle! I'll start with the easy question. Hubs. First thing I would do is replace them with manuals. I know. I know. You are thinking "but I like to not have to get out". I used to think the same way. But, the factory auto hubs are known to sometimes fail. While mine NEVER afiled, I still replaced them. You can get Warn Premiums for around $75 and they take about 10 minutes per hub to install. That way I don't have to wait for mine to fail in a bad place. As far as not having to get out, I lock my hubs as soon as I leave the pavement (or before). Then, I simply shift in and out of 4WD to "activate" the axle.

    For the axle, I wouldn't run anything over 35s on either a 10-bolt of a 12-bolt. Especially if you are talking of running a high-powered torquey engine (now there's a word -- torquey!). You are just asking to snap an axle shaft. It is one thing if you are doing mud or trail runs, but if you plan to do any competitions, you are going to be hard on it. Then it is a matter of time before you snap something. I have 4.56s gears and full Detroit lockers in my front and rear 10-bolts with 35s. However, I have a relatively mild motor (no comments necessray, Butch). If I were to do it all over again, I would swap in a 14BFF rear with a D44 front. Only reason I didn't was because I had just bought new 6-lug wheels (and the 14BFF is 8-lug). Then you can go as big of a motor or tire as you want.

    You could run your 12-bolt with those tires, but be aware that I am guessing you will break sooner or later (and probably sooner than later). I would recommend going tat least to the 14BFF rear.

    Brian
    Check out <a target="_blank" href=http://tx85gmcguy.alloffroad.com>My Jimmy</a> with all her projects!
     

Share This Page