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New Problem

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by rtaub15, Jun 17, 2004.

  1. rtaub15

    rtaub15 Registered Member

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    Ok so I go working on my truck, try to start her up, the amps are at the middle of the gauge, then turn the key, drops to zero...???, then it trys to start but its dead, so i hook up jumper cables, try to start, and same thing, it goes from the norm on the gauge to zero, after a lil trying it finally starts... Any idea what could be causing this? Dont know if it has anything to do with it, the igntion cylinder is broken and u can start it without a key. I just put a brand new alternator in there. Thank you for the help. /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif
     
  2. pauly383

    pauly383 Daddy383 Staff Member Moderator

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    It is possible that the ignition switch is bad. Perhaps when you turn the ignition cylinder ( whether key in or not , from the way you described ) it is not making good connection at all times in its arc of travel . I would make a test ignition wire with a switch and run it from battery to distributor, then jump starter solenoid, if the ignition switch is bad , it should fire up right away hard hired and jumped. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  3. Eric M.

    Eric M. 1/2 ton status

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    I had the same problem years ago, it drove me nuts. It turned out quite a few of the connections between the battery and starter were bad. Check your battery cable connections all the way back to where it screws to the starter.

    I went through 2 batteries and SIX starters before I checked the simple stuff. Who woulda thought .... apparently, not me /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

    Eric M.
     
  4. rtaub15

    rtaub15 Registered Member

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    ok im going to do that, there no problem if i say buy new battery cables and just buy the ones for the posts on top instead of the side posts? The ignition switch is above the steering column right? whats the easiest way to change it? just bend myself and reach up there to un-bolt it? Thanks a lot for the help.
     
  5. fbronson

    fbronson 1/2 ton status

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    I had the exact same problem on my 6.2L diesel for a while. Some days it worked fine, some days, I'd turn the key and the GP's would heat and then I'd try to turn it over and Nothing! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif This perplexed me for a while, I replaced the battery cables, and cleaned the terminal on the starter solenoid where the hot lead goes from the battery to the fuse block and haven't had any problems since. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif It's also possible that your batteries are just going bad and shorting internally. Check the date on the bat, if it's six years or so old, it's probably time for a new bat. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  6. rtaub15

    rtaub15 Registered Member

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    i just replaced the battery and alternator, i was going to buy a new starter anyway for 40 bucks which i was supposed to get today with my water pump which im changing over the wkend, so maybe if i get the new cables it'll be running like a champ. Thanks Guys, Im gonna do this and hopefully it all works. After this gets fixed, what do ya'll recommend for Headers? The Doug Thorley? I cant spend all that much. Thank You.
     
  7. justwhatido

    justwhatido 1/2 ton status

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    flowtech from pepboys. less than $300 for the ceramic coated /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     

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