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New Rockwell lathe

Discussion in 'The Tool Shed' started by BadDog, Jul 14, 2006.

  1. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Several have asked for pics of my new 11x37 Rockwell lathe. Well, it's home and here they are. Man it's a BEAST, look at the Bridgeport for scale! :eek:

    It's absolutely amazing how well it cleaned up. When I first saw it, you would swear the whole thing had been painted black with black roofing pitch. They had been swapping oil and water based coolant for years without so much as wiping it down. The saddle hadn't touched the first 6 inches of the ways near the head stock in a very long time, since they used the turret primarily. To check the ways near the head stock, I had to dig through an 1/8" of the black accumulation. Still got a lot of cleaning to do, lots of oiling and adjusting, along with a few things that must be fixed before it can be used. Hopefully I'll be well down that road by the end of the week end...

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  2. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    TWO lathes!!? You lucky fukker. Very nice! Kerosene will cut that crap pretty well, I'd bet. Hurry up and make something cool with it.
     
  3. bgreen

    bgreen 1/2 ton status

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    Cool man, I'll be down to pick it up in a few weeks.
     
  4. perp

    perp 1/2 ton status

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    Where is the pic with the bridgeport for scale comparison you mentioned?
    BTW, I am jealous!
     
  5. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    Just noticed, it looks like you have a L-00 mount spindle nose. That's what I've got on my sheldon, It's cool it came with the collet closer set-up. What other tooling did you get with it? L-00 mount 4-jaw chucks can be hard to come by.
     
  6. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    looks like its in great shape Russ. my 2 1/4-8 spindle is just not as rigid as I would like but I get by with it. that L-00 should be nice and rigid for corner radius cuts with a radius tool bit.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Thanks guys, I'm really stoked, but it's going to take several hours before it's up to my desired condition. While wear is almost non-existant (the most important point) as far as I can tell, the actuator for the ecentric shaft that rotates the back gear into the main pinion and bull gear has spit out the crown gear. It fits on the back of the shift lever much like a GM oil pump drive and is held in place by a snap ring that is missing. That's going to be hard to find or figure out I'm afraid and I may have to come up with a custom retainer of some kind. Also gott figure out why the longitudinal feed is not fully enguaging, I think it's just gunk or adjustment since all but a small portion of the drive is shared between longitudinal and cross feed, and cross feed works fine. Might also be a sheared key/pin that's only holding by friction. <shrug> So I'll be tearing both head and apron completely down to clean/adjust/fix in the next few days.

    Once the new lathe is running, I'll be selling the Griz to help cover expenses in the new lathe. I'll keep it only till I'm fairly sure I won't need it to make a gear, shaft, bushing or something else.

    Come on down Brook, it's yours if you can load it by yourself with no help or equipment. ;) And if you can't, I'll buy you dinner and show you around as a consolation prize. You, Robert, and several others were my inspiration to get so involved in this. And yes, that means I'm blaming you guys with all this! ;)

    Oops, I cropped most of the Bpt out when I cut down the size. You can see the turret column and part of the ram at the right in the first pic, it has the 10 ga extension cord wrapped around the rear tool position. Here is another "for scale" item, the face plate hanging right behind the head stock is a 9" face plate...

    And yeah, I like the L00, but tooling is hard to find and expensive. I just bought a Prat and Bernard (factory equip on Clausing Colchesters) 6” 3 jaw and an 8” 4 jaw, and it came with a Logan (relabeled Buck I’m told) 6” 3 jaw that has more wear than I liked. That leaves only a 10” face plate on my list.

    What else did I get? Not much. 2 MT3 dead centers, 2 Albrecht 1/2 keyless chucks with arbors for the turret, a 6” driver plate, complete 5C rig but no collets, tailstock and apron turret, and an indexed turret tool post. The turret will live at the end of the bed until it gets in my way, then stash or sell depending on whether I think I’ll use it. But it weights about 100 lbs, so not much fun if I needed to remount alone. The indexed tool post is cool for repeat production work, but I’ll probably be putting on my Aloris AXA knock-off QCTP.

    I’ll probably see if I can’t pick up a Royal 5C set from auction or reseller. I was at one of the resellers I’ve gotten to know last week and found a bucket full of rusty tooling, must have come out of a 40 tool machining center or something, everything had quick change arbors. Anyway, the rust was cosmetic only on most of them, but about 20% or so were pretty bad. But nobody wants rusty tooling... So I bought them for scrap price, 80 lbs for $6.80. I’ve already got 8 Albrecht chucks functional (though still needing some cosmetic cleaning, Scotchbrite to the rescue!) and a 3/8 Jacobs Superchuck, was also working on a tapping head tonight. Also got a bunch of VERY nice machined mandrels and arbors in expanding and solid stiles that look positively brand new. Over 100 lbs of those things. Maybe I’ll get lucky and find a Hardinge or (preferably) Royal 5C set like that.

    Hmm, I also need a MT3 live center, but think I’ve found a spindle center, though the deal is still not closed. Then I’ll have to find a steady and follow that can be adapted to work (apparently very few Rockwells came with steadys or follows?).

    That should get me set pretty well I guess... Anyone want to contribute to my dream... Anyone... Bueler??? Bueler???
     
  8. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    What's your spindle nose taper? I have a 4MT dead center that I don't use, it came in a lot of tooling I bought. If you're interested...

    As for the longitudinal feed, take a look at the halfnuts, they may be out of alignment and not engaging the lead screw fully.
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Native taper is larger than an MT4, but smaller than MT5. Someone said they might be MT4.5 which does exist. Doesn't really matter, the bushing that came with it adapts to an MT2. But thanks for the offer.

    And this lathe does not use the lead or half nuts for longitudinal feed, it uses a keyway driven spur gear to eliminate wear, so the lead screw and half nuts are used only for threading.
     
  10. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    Do you have 3 phase in your shop? Or is the motor on your Bridgeport single phase?
     
  11. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    It's 3 phase and so is the lathe. I much prefer 3 phase motors since they are easily speed controlled and provide much smoother power at all speeds.
     
  12. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I've already started tearing it down but tossed it back sorta together to take some new pics. Never realized how hard it is to take a pic of a darkish gray thing against a white back ground till now, but it makes sense. Best I could do was with 1000W of flood lighting and flash, you see the results and I hope it's good enough since it's coming apart now... :D
     
  13. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Thank you Russ, I will gladly accept some of the credit that has inspired you to get this new toy for your shop :D . I love having a lathe at home, I have allways wanted one and now I do. granted its not what I am used to as far as capicity and strength and ridgidity but it has done well within it capibility. yesterday I wanted to put a new fiber wheel on my pedistal grinder for deburing/polishing sharp edge stuff.

    it was a 1/2 in wide wheel with a 1.0 center hole in it. my wheel arbor bushings is for either a 1.0 wide wheel or a 5/8 shaft, my grinder is a Baldor with a 1/2 shaft. so I just machined one up out of a 1 in piece of alum. stock. just cut it to length faced it both sides poked a 1/2 in hole thru it and broke both ID/OD edges with a 45 deg edge break with a 45 deg tool bit, done. took all of 5 mins. wheel runs nice and true.

    you just got to love that. as I have said before, I love being a machinist and having the skill to do what I do. just wish I could afford to go into bussiness for myself instead of working for someone else. just like I allways wanted this lathe and now I have one, hopefully the same goes for a machine shop/welding/fab shop bussiness too.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2006
  14. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    You know, that really is one of the best parts of it. It's really not the bigger, often much more complex projects that people "ooh" and "ahhh" over, though they can be fun and rewarding. But they take lots of time and effort as well as frustration in many case, especially if prototyping from your head rather than a real design/plan that you follow/copy. But those oh so many times you say to yourself, "Hmm, I could do this if I had that. Hey, I'll just turn a bushing!" (or mill an adapter, or whatever). Those moments occur FAR more often and are much more what make it worth the expense. Or at least make it seem worth it, though an accountant/MBA would likely point out that it would be cheaper to "out source" the work... ;)
     
  15. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Got the back gear fixed, just have to put it back together. Man what a PIA, had to strip out the entire drive train, varispeed and all to get the head stock off.

    Question: You guys that have dealt with these type machines, what do you use inside the motor cabinet to clean it up? Parts of it looks like it was sprayed with undercoating. The rest is just tary black solidified grease, oil and belt dust combined with swarf. It's like reinforced concrete with that swarf in there. I've scraped most of the "bulk" out with gasket scraper, but the rest is proving to be trouble. Not enough room, even with all the belts out to really "get after it". Scraper takes off paint. I tried Casteroil "Super Clean", but it seems to want to take the paint off while being only slightly inclined to remove the tary mess. The Super Clean works well enough for automotive stuff, but something about this mess is defying the purple stuff.
    Also, I'm planning on tossing the head, both jack shafts, and the gear train into the parts washer. But I'm wondering if I should go with petroleum based solvents or water based. I’m inclined to use “mineral spirits” (odorless kerosene etc.). Shouldn’t hurt any of the bronze bearings or seals and it should cut that accumulated mess fairly well without damage to the paint.
     
  16. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    I won't comment on the rest, 'cause it's waaay over my head. But I do know that oilite bronze bushings shouldn't be cleaned in a parts washer - it'll pull the oil out of them. There's a way to "re-load" an oilite bushing with oil; IIRC it involves a pan of oil, the bushing submerged in the oil, and a oven... but I don't recall temps or cooktimes.

    I don't know if your bronze bushings are oilite or not, but I figured I'd throw that out there just in case you didn't know...
     
  17. rdn2blazer

    rdn2blazer 1 ton status Premium Member

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    a few of the pieces of machining equipment I have bought over the years that had that kind of gunk built up over time on it was brutal to get off. some of it in difficult areas just wont come off unless you scrape the hell out of it. I took alot of paint off too but if you really have to have it clean in that location thats what you have to do.

    nothing I used would cut that really tough crud without removing paint too. if it would have been cleaned from new with regular maintence it would be a non issue but most or all old machines all have that similar "nucular cleaning agent" resistant crud on them somewhere. :haha:
     
  18. mofugly13

    mofugly13 1 ton bucket of rust Premium Member

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    I checked out your lathe here

    http://www.lathes.co.uk/delta%20metal/page2.html

    Nice and sturdy. My lathe came with a bunch of gunk iside the drive cabinet and headstock, I scraped all the areas I could reach with a screwdriver. I'd bet Kerosene would be a good solvent to take it off if you figured out how to apply it well. Good luck.
     

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